RKE module location needed

When they say RKE module, I assume they are talking about the key-less entry control module. RKE stands for remote key-less entry so I am sure this is what they are referring to. However, if you get a part number of the part they are talking about, we can be sure we have the same part.

Here are the instructions of the key-less entry module. You need to program it so I attached that info as well.

Could you post pictures of the Instrument Panel Compartment removal process?

Sure. I attached all the components for this. There are a number of different components so they may not be in order but each of these components need to come out. Let me know if you have other questions. Thanks

This is extremely helpful. Thank you very much Kasekenny1!

I have a sinking suspicion that the previous owners removed the RKE module from the car.

With all of the things the module does that isn't likely. Where did you get the new fobs from? I've had issues with some of the ones bought online not working because they had the wrong internal parts. Do you have fobs that do work?

Steve, I bought new fobs from the dealership.

Are you not able to find it? If not, between Steve and I, I am sure we can get more info. Thanks

Well, I didn't want to completely disassemble my dash just yet. I'm going to see if it's covered under warranty first.

Good thinking. keep us in the loop as to what happens.

Well, replacing the module isn't covered. Any ideas of what this will cost to have a dealership fix?

Couple of questions, do you have fobs that work with the car now? You bought the new fobs to add them on or did you not have any fobs and wanted them?

Steve, I do not have any fobs that work with the car right now. My key will unlock the drivers door, and I can turn over the engine, but the fob buttons do not work. I just found a document about the ignition door being stuck open, and stopping all fob functionality. I'm currently trying to remove the lock cylinder so I can grease the door spring. I have the top and bottom cover off the of the steering column now. But, I can't seem to get the cylinder out. Any tips on that?

Just found a video that shows I need a special key tool to get my ignition cylinder out.. My luck is really bad right now.

If that is the item I'm thinking it is that applies to a bad switch in the drivers door latch, not the ignition switch. It tells the RKE module that the drivers door is open so the fobs don't work. The easiest way to test if that is the issue is to use a dealer level scan tool and watch the switch change from open to closed as you open and close the door.
Does everything else work except the fobs? Starts and runs good and all else seems to work, just not the fobs? No theft light on or constant door ajar indication?
PEPS battery fuse in the box under the hood is not blown?
The buttons that don't work control lock and unlock and panic correct? There are two versions of your car, one uses a keyed ignition and the other has passive entry and start where there is just a push button to start the engine. You have the key version?
If so it likely isn't in the switch you are trying to access.

Door chimes when you open the door, and key out of ignition.
I bought the fobs directly from the dealership.
"Theft Attempted" displays on the DIC after you start the car.
No door ajar indication, no theft indication (lock on car).
When I took it to the dealership, twice, they didn't see any faults.
Car runs and drives just like it should.
PEPS fuse not blown.
As far as numbers on the keys, I have:
Key 1 has:
GM13586120
CMII ID: 2011DJ0798
13210 #

Key 2 has:
GM13586120
CMII ID: 2011DJ0798
13170 #

Okay, the theft attempted indicator is the issue. That will shut off the fob's as the car assumes someone was trying to steal it. The only way to find out would be to scan the system and look at what the security system shows for the reason for the light. It sounds like a hard failure in the anti-theft system as that can turn on the light but the car will still run if you have a good key. That could be any of three modules and the only way to know is to use a scanner and the various tests as you monitor what is or isn't working. Not really a DIY project though unless you have a dealer level scan tool.

I've identified the issue. I was exploring the ignition cylinder as the probable cause. I have the high security ignition that requires a special tool to release the cylinder. I had a small pick that I put into the hole to see if I could some how release the cylinder. I was not successful, however, I was able to get the ignition into a certain position that made the chime stop, and I was able to use the key fob without issue.

However, when I put the key back into the ignition to start the car, the chime returned and the fobs stopped working again, and "Theft Attempted" reappeared.

It's safe to say that my ignition cylinder either needs to be replaced, or my entire ignition module needs to be replaced.

Okay, you are saying that the key in chime is staying on with the key in and the door closed? Or am I reading that wrong? If that is the case then it could be in the housing for the cylinder and it not reading the key properly.

So, the chime happens when the door is opened and the key is not in the ignition.

Key out, door open: Chime.

Key in, door open: Chime.

Key in, door closed: No chime.

Key out, door closed: No chime.

I was able to position the ignition cylinder with the pick that stopped the chime entirely and the key fobs worked without issue.

After I put the key into the ignition and start the car, the car runs turns over and runs without issue. When I remove the key from the ignition, the chime returns and the key fobs stop working.

Should I replace the entire ignition switch housing? Or just the ignition cylinder?

Okay, that is a bit different. As the key in chime was going off with the key out and the door open that does fit the bulletin for the cylinder door, however if the door is closing when you remove the key it may still be a bad switch. Does the cylinder look like the picture when the key is out? If yes than take some spray lube like WD 40 or lubriplate and use the straw to apply a small amount just inside the cylinder door. Then use the pick to "bounce" the door and see if it frees up. If you try it a few times and it doesn't seem to want to free up your best option would be a locksmith. They should be able to remove the cylinder and try freeing up the door, or at the worst set up a new cylinder to install that will still use your current keys. A dealer could also order a new cylinder but they would still need to set it up for your keys. If you just replace the cylinder with a new one you then need to program in the new keys and that takes a scan tool as well. The newer vehicles make things like this a lot of fun. No simple repairs anymore. The reason I suggest a locksmith is that they are usually much cheaper than the dealer and also faster most times.

Funny part about what you mentioned, I tried that method. But, I wasn't able to get it to work. I even used a pick to try and free the door..

I put my cell phone camera in macro mode, and used it to examine the inside of the cylinder, as best as I could. I didn't see any door that was mentioned in that service bulletin. I tried the "bounce" method where I was in and out of the slot with the tip of the key, no dice.

I just placed an order for AcDelco ignition housing and cylinder. If I'm not able to code the key, I'll definitely call a lock smith to assist.

It may have failed and come out and not been noticed. It's very small. Good luck with it, please let us know the outcome.

I have fixed the issue.

I replaced the ignition housing and lock cylinder. Key fobs work perfectly. Car runs and drives like it did previously.

Thanks again for all the help!

Great to hear. Always nice when we get a follow up to an issue. Thank you for using 2CarPros.