When driving and I turn steering wheel either left or right I hear/feel a faint thud under the hood?

Yep, it can be, can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so I can hear the noise? That way I can tell for sure what's going on. You can upload it here with your response. I would open the hood and have a helper cycle the transmission between drive and reverse while the brakes are on. You observe the engine movement to check if it is excessive. Please check out this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/comprehensive-guide-to-checking-and-replacing-automotive-engine-mounts

Here is how to change the engine mounts out. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

This is the video from when I went to get an inspection. I’ve done exactly what you said yesterday before I got the passenger axle fixed. The engine moves back and forth and makes a clunk only when shifted to reverse. The guy told me to get my passenger side axel (but it’s still clunking just nowhere near as bad) and then he said do the transmission mount (the one that’s on the bottom in the back) should I do both that’s on the bottom in the video I sent? And I’ll send a video tomorrow of how it looks/sounds when shifting.

Thanks for the video. Yep, those mounts are bad and need to be replaced. Good find on that.

Thank you. So, both bottom mounts, correct?

And another thing. do mounts have to come off during subframe replacement?

Yes, I would get a full set of engine and transmission mounts, I looked over the mount replacement instructions and it doesn't say the subframe needs to be removed.

Okay, thanks. And I mean when doing the subframe replacement, do the motor mounts have to come off when replacing a new subframe on the car?

I see, yes they do the engine mounts are connected to the subframe.

Okay so when I got my subframe replaced, I had to get other suspension parts replaced because the old ones weren’t able to go back on. When I went to test drive my car after it was “fixed” there was a clunk in reverser. It took me months to figure out what it was. It so happened to be my engine mounts. If he physically took my engine mounts off with my subframe, he’s at fault for putting old ones back on that are clearly visible that they are faulty. Shouldn’t he have told me I just needed new engine mounts to put the subframe on correctly? Because now it’s like I’m having to pay for something that could have been done the first time. It just doesn’t make sense to me, that’s why I want to ask you.

Yes, he should have told you, never reinstall bad parts because then you just have to do the job again. Bad practice.

Okay thanks. And I got my bottom engine mounts put on. I put my foot on the brake, shifted to drive, and pressed the gas. I’m still hearing a clunking nose. I’ll send the video now.

And also, I’m vibrating hard when I shift into reverse while in idle.

The first video I sent you earlier today. Looking at the axle, that’s when I put both brakes, and pressed on the gas and it clunks. This second video is the vibrating in idle. it looks like the transmission mount isn’t secure because the engine is moving and vibrating only in idle on reverse .

The video for my message up top.

On the first video it looks like the axle is loose in the hub, I would try tightening it to see if it is loose.

1. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued (1) to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
2. Lower vehicle.
3. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 160 Nm (118 ft. lbs.).

On the second video it looks the mount is still moving too much, did they replace that one Check out the images (below). Please let us know how it goes.

Okay, I’ll try and see if that works for the axle. And yes, he replaced both. The shaking wasn’t bad before he replaced them. Then after he replaced the mounts, I could feel shaking all in my dashboard only while idling in reverse.

And the shop told me that the engine shaking while in idle in reverse is normal for my engine. Is that true?

I also only changed the bottom mounts.. engine and transmission and idling in reverse the shaking is coming through my dashboard but when I accelerate in reverse the shaking goes away.

It is not normal for the engine to shake in reverse. It still sounds like an engine mount problem; did they use OEM parts? Sometimes aftermarket parts can cause vibrations because they don't insulate as well. Also did they change all the mounts?

I got them from Oreilleys', I only changed the bottom two. Idk what to do the shaking is 20x worse than it was before I should have never changed them.

As a woman it’s hard to find a good mechanic/shop that will tell you the truth or even having the proper knowledge to tell you what’s wrong. I feel defeated.

I am sorry to hear that. The fact that it is worse then we are on the right track, but the mounts could be inferior to the factory mounts, you might want to try another shop.

Yes I’ll try another shop. Thank you

Hey, is this normal? I got both lower ball joints replaced, my driver's side is the one without the ball and the passenger is the one with the silver ball. The passenger has this black thick grease on it and the driver's side doesn’t.

This is the passenger side with the thick black grease.

Yep, that is normal.

Okay. Why does one side have the thick black goo but the other one doesn’t?

It looks like the ball joint boot is leaking on the old ball joint.

Hey, so I found out why my car is shaking in idle while in reverse after replacing engine mounts. One my bolts are missing on the bottom trans mount. I tried to put another bolt in, but the thread is gone. Is there anyways I can fix it?

Good find, yep you can install a Heli coil.

https://amzn.to/45MwrI4

Please let us know how it goes.

Okay, thanks!

You are welcome, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.