Wheel bearing/hub assembly installation issue

I am attaching the complete process on the rear bearing and hub assembly. Can you review this and let us know what step you are hung up on? I assume it is number 8 on the assembly and it is then I assume the bearing cup is not installed far enough.

Let us know if this is something different and if so, can you get pictures of what you are dealing with and we will figure out what we need to do? Thanks

How do you replace the wheel hub assembly on my 06 chevy silverado?

[quote:6196a7acc7="djscopper"]Steering problem
2006 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 50000 miles

How do you replace the wheel hub assembly on my 06 chevy silverado?[/quote:6196a7acc7]
If this is a torsion bar style suspension, meaning it doesn't have springs in the front, you take the tire off remove the brake caliper assembly, remove the large nut in the middle of the rotor, and on the back side of the rotor near your c/v axle there are six bolts remove them . Now you might have to tap the old hub out by tapping on one side then the other,it is resessed in a little. you also may have to tap on the end of the axle a little to free it up in the splines. It is fairly easy if you are mechanicly enclined, good luck.

I watched your video on this subject and I am not 100% sure witch way the outer bearing race goes in cone up or down I'll try and send pictures. Pic one is up and two is down.

Hey 06 Duramax,

Thanks for watching the video, "cone up" is the way it needs to be installed, please contact us anytime with questions, thanks for using 2CarPros.com

Best, Ken

Iam not having much luck with this fix.so far the outer bearing has failed twice on me within 40 miles or less .first time I know it was too lose rotor was very close to the caliper the second time I figure it must have been to tight? I thought the hub spun freely enough by hand? Any ideas what else I might be doing wrong.?

You could have a bent axle or housing causing the issue although being either to lose or tight can cause the failure as well, When setting the load on the bearing remember that when it heats up it expends slightly so a too tight bearing become super tight and fails that much quicker.

The Axel and housing should be fine the original problem was the parking break so I thought while I was there. I read somewhere that 50 foot pounds on the hub housing nut should be about right for the load on the bearings does that sound about right.

The main axle hub/bearing nut should never be tightened at all, please referrer to this video for more information

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMxfb9X3ywE

let me know if you have any questions

i can move the hub back and forth, looks like slack in it?

Hello, I'm Danny.

There should be no play whatsoever in the hub assembly. Here is a tutorial showing how to replace a front wheel-hub assembly:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bearing-hub-replacement

I've attached picture steps below showing how to remove and replace the rotors to gain access and replacing the hub assembly on your truck. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

I've followed all steps in your video but the hub just won't release from the bracket.

Good afternoon,

Can you upload a picture of what you see?

Roy

Thank you for your response.
I actually found the same question I was asking on the page and followed the steps provided for that one.
I was able to get the bearing assembly off and replaced.
Thank you again.

Sandy Cox

Glad you got it off.

Roy

Thank you!
Your videos are a great help!

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

my 2002 Silverado hd left rear bearings were replaced and the outer smaller bearing got hot and come apart.my question ? The cone placement of the outer smaller cone bearing is pointing in because it can only be install in the hub from the inside. Can you also send a diagram .the axles shaft is bolted to the hub not pin in diff.Thank you and wait for your reply.

Was Diff oil level full? oil seal replaced? DIY or did you have it done? sending pic maybe small

yes. the oil was full and new seal was put in. Thank you the diagram but,its not the right one I was looking for. My truck is a 2002 Silverado 2500 hd . 6.0 liter. 10.5 diff. The rear wheel hub got two bearing.

Without all info had to guess so here is 10.5 Suspect installation may have damaged bearing also 115 ft. lbs. torque on hub.

oops forgot diagram

when the bearing were installed into the wheel hub the outer bearing cone the taper end was pointing into the inner retaining ring, also the adjuster nut was not torqued just hand tighten until wheel started dragging than was back off and pinned. My next question is this adjustment nut should be torque to 115 pds for preload than back off?

115 for bolts to hub the adjuster finger tighten to zero lash then with socket and torque wrench tighten to 52 lb. ft. you can back off one slot counterclockwise to insert keeper key

what is the procedure step by step for wheel bearing hub replacement on my 2001 chevy p/u 4wd.front driver side.its 4wd and its a sealed hub type?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

remove brake caliper, rotor, bracket, dust shield. remove brake hose and wheel speed sensor from steering knuckle. Remove dust cover and then nut an dwasher for axle. remove bolts that hold hub in knuckle. reverse for reassy. picture is of 1500 series 2500 series is a little different Retorque axle nut to 177 ftlbs for assembly and hub bolts to 133 ft lbs.

I just had my driver side front hub bearing replaced to my 2000 chevy silverado extended cab pick up. I took it in for an alignment and they said they could not do it because the hub bearing needs to be replaced. I told them that I just had it replaced they said it was bad. Is there anything else that it could be?

I would have a second opinion. Either they are wrong and it is good, the shop didn't replace the bearing that they said they did, or they got a bad bearing. Take it back to who replaced it and have them check it.

Replaced hub assembly front left. Backed up 10 ft and bearing broke. Is this due to defective part? I followed your Utube video which was great and it went fine no problems until I moved the truck.

Sounds like you have a four-wheel-drive and the half shaft wasn't installed or the axle nut wasn't torqued properly. The outer cv joint is what holds the bearing assembly together. There must never be any vehicle weight on the bearing unless that cv joint is torqued to specs. Specs can be very high. Almost all cars call for around 180 foot pounds. Some GM trucks call for up to 240 foot pounds. The value is usually listed on the sheet that comes with the bearing. That has to be set with a click-type torque wrench. If the axle nut isn't torqued to specs, the most common symptom is the bearing becomes noisy and makes a loud humming sound.

Also, many vehicles use a "torque-to-yield axle nut which is a one-time-use nut. It must be replaced, not reused, anytime it is loosened. If you have that design, a new nut typically comes with the new bearing. Reusing the old nut won't cause what you described. It will cause problems later.

Those bearings are really tough. I've never seen one on any brand of vehicle be defective out of the box. All failures are due to improper installation procedures.

It is a 2 wheel drive. Three bots to hold hub, put rotor, brakes, caliber, and tire back on. Checked to see if wheel turned and there was no play in bearing.

Well, that blows my sad story all to pieces. I still have never seen a new bearing fall apart, but there is no axle nut or torque spec to worry about. My best suggestion is to take the smoldering pile of ruble to the parts store and have them look at it. I can't think of anything you could have done wrong to cause it to fail.

I can't either. Thanks for your help.

Can't seem to get the bearing to break free, is there a trick I am missing? Caliper, caliper bridge are both off and all 3 bolts holding the bearing assembly have been removed. Have soaked with penetrant, still to no avail. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Got It,
Once you have the caliper, caliper bridge and 3 bolts holding assembly removed just get 3 M 14 x 1.50 bolts, thread them into hub from back side and and tap each one in turn with a hammer till the assembly falls out. Work like a charm :D

Just had the same question. About to try this and see if it works.

Thank you so much! We were able to get the bearing assembly off following this suggestion!
Thank you again.

Sandy Cox

I have the truck listed above 1500.
I want to convert the wheel hub from 6 to 8 lug . Because I want fixing 2500 wheel without adapters so it's the 2500 wheel hub and rear axle can be fixed without any modification? Or do you have any good ideas?

Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested. Rear end is bolt in. The front end is a little different. You need to change out the steering knuckles and everything. The 1500's are different up front than the 2500's so you can't just change out the control arms. You have to drill the knuckles for the studs on the ball joints. Hope this helps and let me know if you need any further help on this. Thanks for using 2CarPros.