Codes P0511 and P0325, what parts do I buy?

So, these codes are two different problems, here is the idle air control motor and the knock sensor for the engine I have included how to do so in the images below.

P0511 - Idle Air Control Circuit Malfunction

P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Hello, thank you for your response. :) Is this what the correct part looks like?

Yep, that is it, here are more instructions on how to change it out. Check out the images (below). Let us know if you need anything else.

Update 3/10/24:
When my mechanic opened the gasket or the part he needed to get to the Idle, he noticed the entire Throttle Body was rusted and old too. Now, I am returning that singular part above and replacing the entire Throttle Body with the Idle Air attached to it. Will update you guys once it’s in.

Sounds good thanks for letting us know.

Now I am getting 2 new codes. I put my car in drive, reverse for 3 seconds, my RPM’s drop to zero as the engine light comes on, and my car won’t go. Here’s the codes. P0107 and P0122. What could be wrong? Is the throttle body bad? I don’t understand, we replaced both parts (throttle and knock sensor). Thank you for your help.

With the p0107 code the MAP sensor could be disconnected, or you have a clogged catalytic converter. Here is the location of the sensor so you can check it out and a guide to help you test the catalytic converter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

As far as the TPS sensor code that will be a problem with the throttle body, did you buy it new? If so, it is defective. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

anything?

Hi! Update. The throttle bottle ended up being defective, so I got a replacement and that settled that code and issue. The MAP sensor p0107 code ended up being a false read when all this was occurring with my car. It is running smoothly now. Thanks :)

Thanks for letting us know, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Update: After replacing the throttle body, sadly, my engine light will not stay off. It is reading the same knock sensor code, so I replaced it again. No help… The engine light is still on reading the knock sensor code. I have a question: is there any way that due to my engine light being on for so many months with the knock sensor code that I have to keep erasing the code with the machine? it has to be something simple because my car is running perfectly fine, however, it is definitely something with the RPMs. I say this because I live in Connecticut with lots and lots of hills, and overdrive is kicking in now better than ever before. I’m at a loss for words and hope someone can help in any way. Any suggestions? (I replaced the knock sensor thinking it was bad, but it can’t be. Can it be the Throttle Body Sensor attached to the throttle body? (Even though I bought them new, I am confused as to why my RPMs are being affected still after the light turns on.)

Is it the same code?

P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)

This is a circuit error so if you have replaced the sensor twice it could be the wiring itself, but can I ask if the engine is making excessive noise? Can you please upload a short video of the engine idling so I can hear it? If the engine has an internal problem the knock sensor code will keep coming back. If not, we will need to test the wiring from the knock sensor to the PCM. How does the knock sensor wiring connector look? are the pins fully seated?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response to any problems so we can see what to help you with.

Hi Ken, thanks for your quick response. Yes, same code “Knock sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor.” I’m attaching a video of my car once it warms up idling. I don’t think it’s making excessive noise (from what I know.) When looking at the wiring, the wires are exposed, meaning the colors show through and the black rubber is open up top just a bit. However, they don’t look damaged. I have to test the wiring with my father as soon as he can. Thank you :) Let me know how it sounds or if you need a better video. Also I’d like to add I smell gas when the engine starts up but other than that it runs fine.

Yep, the engine sounds okay so that is not a problem, thanks for the video. The exposed wiring is not good so that could be the problem, but please let me know what the wiring test reveals. We are getting closer to finding the problem.

Hi Ken, can you please let me know if this Voltmeter is good? Does it matter if I get 6000 counts? I’d rather get a high quality one.

Also, can you please send a link of the correct knock sensor wire replacement that I will find once I take apart the side panel inside my car to test with the voltmeter? The wire that goes from the Knock sensor module to the knock sensor itself? I’d like to have it ready for purchase in case it is the wire, which I truly believe it is. Thank you!!

For the post: My main problem is reduced engine performance. I have no knock, and my gas isn’t being guzzled. Hope this helps someone.

A voltmeter for the testing you are doing should be something like this.

https://amzn.to/3xulNtv

Let us know how it goes.

Here is a photo once I got in. Now, how do I remove the ECU/PCM bolts? Which bolts exactly? I moved the black air thing to the side already.

Sure, the 10mm bolt under the wiring harness is what you need to remove to replace the PCM. Thanks for the images, it helps and let me know how things go.

Hi! So, my father and I are at a loss right now. I have accessed the wires, but we do not know what exact one to test. There are about 5 separate plugs that have many wires in them. So we took out the first “plug” or set of pins (i don’t know the correct name but I attached a photo of what we did) with the wires, and we don’t think that’s the correct wire. How do we know what wire is correct? Everything is so closely tied together and tight that I don’t know what wire to test. Or how to test the PCM. Please help. We removed all the plugs with the wires and have access to the PCM ECM silver box.

Yep, the wires are close together, it is best to send the PCM for testing it is difficult to do without the right equipment. The connectors should have small number or letters on it to help you find the a1 red/blu wire.