Cranks no start issue

1995 HONDA ODYSSEY
300,000 MILES • 2.2L • 4 CYL • AUTOMATIC
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D ROSE
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Car cranks, but will not start. No fuel pump startup, injector pulse present, entire distributor replaced with used verified working unit (ICM/CPS/Coil checked out okay), spark at coil but not at plugs. (?) ECU relay replaced (due to no fuel pump startup) but jumped and checked out okay, all fuses checked, all wiring checked (except for power line at pump), check engine light goes out after key turned unless coded connector jumped for flashing codes (OBD I) on dash indicate throttle body/map sensor barometric pressure issues but power is at the connectors. Battery checked out weak so was replaced, all grounds checked. Why no fuel and no spark all of a sudden without prior incident? PCM? Replaced distributor three times in the past due to no start issue and ignition switch due to melted wiring issue, but this time still no start.
May 17, 2018 at 12:53 PM
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STRAILER
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Hello,

There is an injector resistor that goes bad in these cars. Here is a wiring diagram and the resistor location among with the guide to help you confirm the failure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
May 20, 2018 at 12:13 PM
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D ROSE
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I will look into your suggestion. Thank you.
May 21, 2018 at 6:37 AM
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STRAILER
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Thank you please do and get back to us.
May 21, 2018 at 10:02 AM
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D ROSE
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Pulled the injector resistor to check the impedance. All terminals checked out low. No open/high impedance. All injectors have voltage as well. Your thoughts?
May 22, 2018 at 6:37 AM
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STRAILER
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To confirm you replaced the PGM FI relay? If so lets do a ground and power test to the PCM to makes sure the computer is getting powered up. Also, have you checked for power at fuse # 9, 2, 33, 39?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please use the wiring diagrams below. Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
May 22, 2018 at 10:43 AM
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D ROSE
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I will check as instructed. Thank you for your continued support.
May 23, 2018 at 6:43 AM
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STRAILER
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Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
May 23, 2018 at 10:47 AM
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D ROSE
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I checked all fuses, the injector resistor, and the PGM FI relay. Fuses all good, injector resistor values within 5 -7 ohms range, PGM FI is getting voltage when key is on. Terminals 1, 3, 5 have constant 12 volts while terminal 7 with Y/B wire to the pump gets 12V for two seconds only once relay operates. What should I look at next? Still have codes 13, 14, 7, and 8 flashing with service connector jumper-ed.
May 25, 2018 at 10:36 AM
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STRAILER
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So you have spark at the coil but not the plugs. This is a sign of a shorted ignition rotor. Can you tell me how you know there is spark at the coil?
May 26, 2018 at 10:24 AM
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D ROSE
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Spark is present at the high voltage coil terminal when cranking. Switched rotor/cap. Pulled one plug and grounded, appears slight spark is now present when cranking. Just verified that power was present at the fuel pump, but the pump is not working. Appears a hole needs to be cut in the floorboard to access the top of the fuel pump. I will try changing out the fuel pump and get back to you. Thank you.
May 29, 2018 at 6:49 AM
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STRAILER
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Yes, I would drop the tank it would be easier than cutting a hole. Here is a guide and diagrams to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
May 29, 2018 at 10:14 AM
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D ROSE
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Understood and thank you for the information. Keep you posted.
May 30, 2018 at 9:50 AM