Stalls out while driving?

Hi,

I need you to do me a favor. I need to hear it cranking. Is it possible for you to record it with your phone and then uploading it for me to hear?

As far as the no start, under normal conditions, we first check to make sure the vehicle is getting fuel and spark to the plugs. Here is a link that explains the most common causes of a crank no start condition:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

If possible, record it so I can hear what it is doing. If it is related to the timing belt, I should be able to tell.

Other than that, let me know if that link helps.

Take care,
Joe

Hello, I'm Danny.

I would tend to think you're not getting fuel.Even though you say the fuel pump was replaced it could be possible a defective or weak pump.Was it replaced recently since this symptom started happening? I would suggest performing a fuel pressure test.If you don't have a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The fuel pressure specification for your car is 39-45 PSI. After you perform this test get back to us and we'll go from there.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

I replaced the fuel pump yesterday, same with fluids and a new battery. The guy at the auto shop said it may be a sensor. I can't remember the name of it, but he said it cost $90.00. so I want to be sure before I spend more money on something that doesn't need to be replaced.

Hello again.

Okay, I understand that. When all of this started happening was the check engine light flashing or illuminated? Any chance you remember the sensor they spoke of? Camshaft or Crankshaft sensor? Let us know. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

The check engine light was on and crankshaft I believe.

Hello again.

Do you have access to a code reader or scanner to confirm this code? I will show you the location of the crankshaft position sensor but I would like you to double check.Would hate for to to keep buying parts and not solving the problem.If you don't have access to a scanner or code reader most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved on how to check codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

This is what is sounds like. I have replaced the crankshaft sensor, the battery and the fuel pump

It's still not starting and I am depending on myself and only have a limited amount of money to try to get it running. I need help!

Hi,

The cranking sounds normal and not related to timing. I need you to next check for spark and fuel. Here is a link that explains how to check for spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Before checking for spark, see if the engine starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then suspect it is fuel related. If it doesn't, then check for spark.

If there is no spark, then we can suspect the crankshaft position sensor.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

I already replaced the crankshaft sensor and the fuel pump. Could it be something else fuel related? Or faulty parts or I installed them wrong?

Hi,

I was first concerned about timing based on your original description of what happened, but it sounds normal when cranking. That leaves spark and fuel. You could have fuel pressure to the fuel rail and the injectors not injecting fuel into the engine.

The best thing to try is starting fluid. If it does nothing with starting fluid, then check spark. If it starts and stalls, let me know. I'll explain what to do next.

Take care and let me know.

Joe

I tried the starter fluid and it didn't work.

I saw this was broken. Will this affect anything? Someone told me i need a new starter. Could that be true? He plugged a reader to it and said there's no codes coming up.

Hi,

That is the air intake tube that runs between the air filter box and the throttle body. It will certainly help it run better, but there is a good chance it has nothing to do with a no start. It will need replaced simply because it is allowing unmetered air to enter the engine. This will cause a lean fuel mixture and a check engine light to turn on.

As far as the starter is concerned, you mentioned that it is cranking but not starting. To me, that indicates the starter is working, so I don't feel that will change things. It sounded normal in your video.

Joe

Thank you! I thought that too when he said it was the starter. That being said, what else can I replace to get it running?

If it didn't start with starting fluid (when I say start, I mean for a couple seconds and then stall), I need you to confirm there is no spark. I noted that you replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Also, by any chance do you remember the code that was found when it was scanned? Do you have access to a live data scanner?

Let me know.
Joe

There was no code when it was scanned. I don't have access to one, I had a neighbor plug it up to read it with his and he said it had no codes.

I need to know two things. First, is there spark to the plugs? Since it didn't even try to start with starting fluid, I don't think there is, but we need to confirm that. Here is a link that shows how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Next, please ask your neighbor with the scan tool if it can read live data. If it can, I need you to have him/her check for an RPM signal when the engine is cranking.

Let me know.
Joe

My name is David and a two weeks ago my car turn off on me while i was driving down the road. I had my foot down on the petal and you could feel the car starting "jerk". It wasn't a big jerk but if felt like i was kinda loosing power and getting in back. After the car died the car started right up with no hesitation. And yesterday it did the same thing. The car has driven smooth in between these two times. I don't know whats wrong, i'm not a mechanic at any means. Thanks

you need to start some where
and you can do so by scanning for trouble codes
also check it for tune up and check air and fuel filters

I have a 2002 protege that I used to run until the gas tank was almost empty. The problem with that is condensation builds up on the inside of the metal tank causing rust... and the rust would settle to the bottom of the tank and get sucked onto the fuel pickup screen... and cause the engine to stop. As soon as the car was turned off, the suction from the fuel pump would release the debris back to the bottom of the tank, and the car would start right back up and go for a while until it happened again. I had a mechanic clean as much out as he could, and the problem never re-occured. In the 2002, theres an access cover under the back seat. The less fuel in the car when the mechanic gets to it.. the easier it will be.

Just back from 1200 mile trip with no problems. Then this week my Mazda has died after driving well for 15-20 minutes. All the usual red dash lights - oil, battery - come on and we coast to a stop. She turns over energetically but doesn't catch. When has stalled, usually I can start it again in 20 minutes to half an hour. Treated gas with service station 'engine cleaner' w no apparent effect. Battery has lots of juice, alternator is less than a year old, and no symptoms like dying radio, lights. Check engine light comes on - garage thought was dirty sensor and cleaned it - not the problem as happened again today.

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark issue

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

I have a 2003 Mazda Protege that stalls when the temperature outside is hot. This happens after driving for about 45 minutes. After I come to a stop the radio and the a/c drops out and the the car dies. The battery then appears dead. I have tested the battery and it has 11 volts after the stall. The engine starts again after a short jump and then drives fine.

These symptoms seem consistent with the ignition module getting warm and not working. But I have not read anything about the electrical system having low voltage with this problem.

Hi
First battery voltage can be no lower than 12.45V. At 11V all relays and computer function failes. See if batt will charge up then have alternator checked.
Let me know the results
Thanks for donate

When I am driving and I stop completely at a stop sign or red light and then proceed to accelerate, the car chokes up and sometimes dies. Also, sometimes while driving the brakes would randomly not work. The peddle does not go to the floor when that happens, it actually won't go down. Today, when I started the car it did start then instantly died, it did that twice. After that though it wouldn't even turnover. All the lights work as well as the remote lock so idk if it could be the battery. Some advice would be much appreciated!!!

The brake pedal would be hard to depress when the engine stalls.
Check the battery terminal connections, ensure they are clean and tight.
Check the fuses.
Have the battery and alternator tested.

Engine Performance problem
2002 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

The above subject was posted on June 2, 2009 with a 2003 Mazada Protege. I am having the same problem with my 2002. Please let me know what it is that can be done to correct this problem.

it's most likely the upper air intake hose. mine did the same thing. it's a dealership part but not that expensive. or you can do like me for the moment and duck tape it

My preotege5 will shutter and feel like it's about to stall out but won't. this happens when stopped or when my foot comes off the accelerator (same almost stall-out feeling can come on start-up). After it almost stalls and I apply pressure to the accelerator it will not accelerate but the rpm gauge increases. eventually it will pop out of this. it is an intermittent problem.

I have had a tough time trying to fix this. The garage I got to has done the following without success:
- spark plugs
- tune up (needed one anyway)
- Fl-1 (fuel induction kit)
- Hose/snorkle (vacuum tube)
- timing belt

man I need some help with this one... huge pain.

Thanks

Lack of acceleration,chugging,hesitating,bogging etc. could be caused by one of the following below.

Inspect and test all the following listed below and get back with some results

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

Electrical problem
2002 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 93000. miles
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Hi I was wondering if you would have a quick answer to my question... we have had a bit of wet weather lately and avoiding puddles isn't very easy. After driving my car through a bigger puddle than I had anticipated my wipers sped up considerably, followed by a sequence of events.... my battery light came on, my engine light and my O/D light was flashing... I then came upon a red light and my car stalled. So I turned it back on and proceeded while the car was trying not to stall. I just figured that it was from all the water but it has been doing the same thing for a few days now. Is it possible that I need new wires, Battery or alternator?

Get the alternator and connections checked out-if tested okay start with the ignition components such as the distributor/coil/coil packs/camshaft and crankshaft sensor

I was driving my car while ago and was running fine then I came upon a light and had to stop. When I pushed the clutch in the car died. I started it up and took off and while I was rolling I pushed the clutch in again and it died. Let off the clutch and it started again. Also I will be driving and all of a sudden the battery light will come on and stay on for a minute or two and go out again. This happens about once a week.

you have an issue with the idling. have it checked for a vacuum leak. it cold also be a idle control valve as well.

is the check engine light on????

Roy

My car began sluggishness while noving lik wanting to stall.. And s gawd awful noise.. I see that the outside tension is wobbling timeingbelt on..?????

check belt and tensioner as recommended replacement is 60,000 mi. might be your noise, then scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.

I have a 2001 Mazda Protege and I hit a median curb about 6 this morning and blew out both my front left and rear left tire and rims and immediately after i hit the curb my car cut off and will not turn back on. this was early this morning and i have been periodically going to try to start it again and it does not start. It sounds like it is trying to start but does not start. I was told to look in my trunk under the carpet on the left and right side for a button but i could not find any buttons. I am a single mom and that is my only means of transportation. PLEASE HELP!!

I do believe the fuel pump inertia switch is just behind the right kick panel. It should have a button on it push it and see if it starts.

Thank you i will try that first thing in the morning