Every now and then when I turn it on it turns over, but then it dies?

This is common when you have a vacuum leak or the throttle bore needs to be serviced here are three guides to go over when fixing the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.

I am encountering a very strange issue since past week. The engine sometimes stops by itself while either running or stopping at the signal. Have sent to few garages and until now did not get a proper diagnosis. Garage one said, issues with the fuel pump and need to replace. Garage two said, issue with the fuel tank pressure and fuel tank need to replaced. That is because the vent for releasing air pressure is blocked. Garage three said fuel pressure regulator need to replace. The car is running very smooth, just that sometimes out of sudden the engine will stop and after few ignitions will start again.Kindly please someone advise me on this.Thank you.

Good morning,

It sounds like they all are indicating a fuel delivery issue.

What was the fuel pressure that led them to a fuel pump? If they did not check it, then they guessed. That is never good. you need specific reasons for the presumption that the fuel pump has failed.

I would start by going to a shop that will do a proper diagnostic not based on a code but on proper checks for spark and fuel. Once the failure is determined, then get an estimate and let us know the results. Then we can further help you.

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Thank you for your prompt reply. However I have no idea if they check the fuel pressure and based on what they all zeroed in to the fuel delivery issue.
What would be your suggestions? Shall is go for a fuel pressure check and spark test. What could be the possible reasons of this issue?

Thank you

Yes, as I stated, you need someone to do a proper diagnostic that will tell you the exact failure. Reading a code means nothing but tell you an area of failure, not the failure itself.

Roy

Thanks. It was the dirty throttle bore I cleaned it and the problem is gone.

car starts but quits 4-5 second after starting and will start again and again but will not stay running

Hello

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the idle air control valve/auxiliary air control valve is not working right. Here is a guide to help us see whats going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thanks for the guide, I cleaned my throttle body fixed the issue.

I'll warm it up and start to go shifts to second and wont pass 2,000 rpm same in third then sputters when i come to a stop. After about twenty minutes of driving it runs fine? Thinking shift solenoids?

Hey JOSHUA808,

A great place to start would be to check for codes, guide below to check for engine management codes but the same process will give you transmission codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Also another thing to check initially will be the transmission fluid level/condition.

This is the always the first thing to do with an automatic transmission. Faults caused by fluid level, poor fluid condition and blocked transmission fluid filters are very common and you have to rule this out before diving into the control system.

There will be instructions on how to check/top up the fluid in your owners manual.
Generally you check the level with the engine at operating temperature, engine running, transmission in P.

If you have to top it up start with small increments and work your way up to avoid over filling. Make sure you are using the right fluid for your vehicle.

If the fluid looks dark and you have not had a fluid and filter change done then you will need to do this and retest.

Regards, Joe

The code that came up before I changed the fluid and filter was gear two incorrect ratio.

The code that came up before I changed the fluid n filter was gear 2 incorrect ratio

Hey Joshua808,

After changing the fluid and filter and making sure the level is good have you cleared the codes and retested?

Regards, Joe

Yes, I have catalytic converter came up too. Decarbonized it and it ran okay for a few days.

Hey JOSHUA808,

So what codes do you have now?

Just the catalytic converter, which code do you have?

When you say you decarbonized it was that with a fuel additive.

Did the fault completely clear?

Regards, Joe

Seafoam the the vacuum lines. Have not had a chance to scan it since that. The transmission does jump into second and lags into third even after its warmed up. I put trans tuna in it. Pretty sure it's the shift solenoids. And going to change them both and see where it gets me.

JOSHUA808,

If after changing the solenoids you still have problems clear the codes down, give it a road test and recheck the codes.

Let us know how it goes after the solenoid replacement.

Regards, Joe

A while ago my car started running very rough upon startup and was fine after a few miles. The other day it stalled twice when I first started it in the morning. Then it almost stalled while driving without much throttle. The engine light came on so I read the codes and it is 8 long flashes and two short ones indicating a Crank Position Sensor. Reading about this sensor it says this would not cause my problem . It's purpose is to detect misfire. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). This is what your vehicle uses to get air into the engine when your throttle plate is closed. Your vehicle's Power-train Control Module (PCM) uses an electric duty cycle to open and close an internal valve that controls the amount of air going to the engine. When these valves go bad your engine will not idle and stall at idle. I have included a few links for you to go to below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

I have also included in the diagrams down below a troubleshooting guideline as to what to check when you have this problem. I have also included factory troubleshooting chart for the Idle Air Control Valve. Please go through the guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out, please.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I found a misplaced clamp on a large hose from the air horn to the valve cover. I don't know if this created a vacuum leak or not but before I try the IAC I'll drive the car tomorrow. Today after a thirty minute drive home it stalled pulling into my garage and would not immediately restart. After a couple minutes it restarted and seems to run fine. I also think that i can remove the IAC without removing the throttle bore.I'll keep you informed. Thank you.

Hello again,

The misplaces hose sounds like your Positive Crankcase Ventilation hose. This is a massive vacuum leak and will cause all the symptoms you are describing. The IAC mainly deals with your vehicle at idle, controlling the air bypassing the throttle plate that is closed at idle. I have also included a few links for you to go to below as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

The Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP) will also cause your engine to stall or not run, or not start as well. If your blink codes are indicating this, I would definitely change this as well. Your vehicle uses this input from the CKP to determine the rotational speed(rpm's) of the crankshaft and monitors it for engine misfires. If no signal or a break in the signal is present the engine will not run as the PCM will not relize the engine is running.
Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out please.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

It seemed fine and then still did the same thing. It acts like there is water in the gas upon startup. Chugging. Once I accelerate it's fine. Then it started stalling randomly while driving. It would not immediately restart . After a few minutes it would restart and run apparently fine. I bought the crank sensor and checked its resistance . I also checked mine from the car. One had 550 ohms and one had 615 ohms. New and old respectively. Then I tried to test voltage at the plug. Got nothing with the key on except one time got 1.9 V on one wire . Tested again and got nothing. Started car without sensor connected and then started car with crank sensor out altogether. How is that possible? A shop said that it could be getting its signal from cam sensor.

I read the codes and even after it stalled while driving there was no code present? Where does the sensor get its voltage supply from?

Any help you can offer is appreciated as I am sort of stumped.

I have not installed the new crank sensor in case I want to return it.

Thank you for your help again.

I have a new piece of information. I still can't get a voltage read but with the crank sensor out I get a code for it.

Hello again,

Okay, that's good. Have you checked your IAC valve yet?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Not yet, I put the crank sensor in , cleared the code and will drive it tomorrow and see what happens. I read the crank sensor is known to fail when hot. There was also a recall on it and the cam sensor but for later years than mine.

Hello again,

Okay. Please check the IAC and get back to us, please. Usually with the problems that you described earlier, the IAC is the problem.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I took the crank sensor back out because it gave me two codes . I put the original one back and no codes . I will check the IAC this weekend because the car is stalling at stoplights and acting like it is not getting fuel? Could this be as simple as a fuel filter?

Hello,

Sure. If the filter gets clocked it would definitely cause idle issues and poor, erratic acceleration until it hits a spot and will have enough fuel passing through it that will start to run fine again. I have included a link for you to go to below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-a-fuel-filter

I have also included vehicle specific information for your vehicle in the diagrams down below. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I could not check the IAC because I could only loosen the top screw and the bottom one feels like the head is damaged. They should have used hex head bolts instead of phillips screws. I will have to remove the throttle body to get the IAC out. Problem there is the cap screws were to tight and I didn't want to break them. What I did find was oil inside the distributor and it probably interfered with the optical pickup of the cam sensor. I sprayed it good with contact cleaner and it seems to be fine again. I'll probably have the replace the o-ring on the shaft of the distributor soon.

Hello again,

Great, so you fixed the problem. That is what we want to hear. Good job! Please, if you should have any other questions, please feel free to ask. It's why we are here.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Thank you for your help and I won't hesitate to reach out in the future.