Door Ajar warning?

Hello –

To better assist you is your model the GL, GLI or GLS? Also please tell me your engine size in liter and what is the 8th digit of your VIN.

Hello –

Hey, please do me one other thing just in case………. Please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

I think you are going to be able to fix this once we figure it out if you do those things.

I went down to my local AutoZone and O'Reilly and they both told me that running a diagnostic check on the car isn't going to turn up anything, since my checkengine light isn't coming on. This makes perfect sense to me.

The guy at Autozone wasn't at all helpful, but he did tell me that there really is no such thing as a sensor, just a latch. I *guess* that makes sense, but if it were a loose latch or malfunctioning latch, one would think I could trigger it by pushing on the driver's side doors from the inside (note that this only happens when making right turns).

The door ajar alarm has gotten even worse since my first post, it makes the sound when making slight "lane change" turns.

As asked, the 8th digit of the VIN is "M". The engine size is the 2.0L (non-turbo). 2004 VW Jetta GLS.

Any help is appreciated.

Hello –

Thanks for the info……….

As for the light………it doesn’t have to stay on to throw a code. Your door modules all run through the DTC and can throw a code. Example, code 952 is “Signal Driver's Door Open”.

The alarm system also is affected by your doors and interior lights. Again, this goes through the DTC.

So I understand how it may make sense, but I am also going by the manual for your car and following the basic troubleshooting steps. The vehicle may not have thrown any codes….but again, this is the first step in troubleshooting.

For now, take a can of WD40 and spray the door latch area really good. The latch that closes when it hits the striker post on the vehicle. Spray each door latch mechanism down really good. Spray, then open and close the door several times. Then spray, then open and close the door several times. Make sure you do each door.

Let me know what happens…………..

Ok, I will take another trip to the O'Reilly and see if they will listen this time. I will post back what I hear.

So you're saying that even if the car is not showing the symptoms at the time they are testing, and there is no light or "ding" alarm going off, there will still be a reading?

In the meantime, I will do the WD40 tricvk and see what that brings me.

Thanks for the help so far!

Hello –

Thanks for getting back so quick……….

Yes on the codes………I know it may sound odd, but many vehicles will flash a code and the light goes off. Now, will you have a code……..well can’t say for sure. Each manual though on 90% of the vehicles say to check that first. I add the battery and alternator in there to save the customer, you in this case, future problems that may be starting. A weak cell in a battery, a diode going out in the alternator. Preventative maintenance.

Sometimes we get lucky and it guides us right home. Sometimes it gives us nothing. In the big picture of things, you are also eliminating items also as we go through things.

Also, as I look through the TSB while you are doing certain checks, sometimes they have codes and information that we use also. I guess what I am saying is I check several different areas looking for any info that may help you out and get you going.

Some AZs and Ors will not even check I am told if the light isn’t on. So in my world, I tell them it came on then went off. Some let you check them yourself. I am sure you could….just don’t start the car with the scanner hooked up…..just turn it on where the dash lights all come on.

Do the WD40 thing first to save you a trip if that works………..

Looking forward to hearing back from you……..

Have a good evening.

Hello - By the way, it looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.

2003 jetta - Is this a fuse problem? Everything is working fine it's just the key to unlock the car won't do it anymore and sometimes it will. Also my cabin light that turns on when the door is open stays on so I have to turn it off manually. And horn does not chirp when doors are locked. Is this a fuse or relay problem how to fix it?

The electronic key/power locks? Battery in the keyfob is dying. Dome light issue is a door pin switch. The horn issue is too, probably. If you set the panic alarm, does the horn sound?

I don't think it's dying because I hit the button the little red light blinks but then again If I click it alot it opens the car. And te alarm horn does sound. Just not when it locks which is odd to me . So I will need to buy a new key sometime soon?

No. A new battery.

A new battery for the key?

For the keyfob. The part in the picture. I understand they're integrated, but I mean the plastic part that has the buttons you press to lock/unlock.

My car just had an ignition misfire and hmm omens layer check engine light it only comes on when the misfire and says my catalyst is below threshold p0420 and te spark plug but it's because I didn't start the car long enough. Should I just get the light removed and ignore it ?

The check engine light? No. That's there to alert you of problems that can cause damage to the engine or emissions systems. hmm omens layer? Is that a shop?

I recently took my VW in to get new tires, serpentine belt, anitfreeze, oil change, headlight restoration, and air filter.

When I got my car back, the car seemed to think the driver's side door was always open. The lights stay on, the warning bells chime, etc. I can't lock the doors remotely or set the alarm. I've had to pull a fuse to keep from draining a battery (Light on the driver's door stays on for as long as it thinks the door is open), which means the windows don't work nor the interior lights.

The place doesn't seem to know how to fix it. Any ideas? Where is the sensor on a VW?

Thanks!

It came on after a misfire is all I got it turned off it has came on before I had then it went off it all happened from a misfire I got it read again today still got P0420 banks 1 below threshold I'm sure it's due to my 02 sensor reading wrong due to the misfire because my car is an 03 no way the catalytic converter should be below threshold yet

Sounds like the "micro" switch in the door actuator (locking mechanism)
is faulty.

This is a common problem... people have had success repairing them
via disassembly and replacing the switch or re-soldering bad solder
joints.

The quickest way is to replace the actuator.

To replace / remove the door actuator/latch, you need to remove the
door handle lock cylinder, the inside door panel and then the
window regulator & panel (separate window from window regulator).


Image of said part attached.

Thomas

What engine do you have?

VR6

I was going to send you some diagnostics to check the O2 Sensor, but they all require the specialized VW diagnostic scanner. Let me know if you can get your hands on either the VAG 1551 or the VAG 5051.

It is the 02 sensor in sure mine is a 6 speed manual also. I think it's because I didn't ignite the care properly which caused the 02 sensor to misread and tell the catalysts it's below threshold

Didn't ignite the care properly? It's not a diesel, is it?

No it's gasoline but I didn't start it up tight and it was misfiring I'm sure that's why it happened

I don't understand what you mean by not starting it up right. Turn the key, let the idle stabilize, and go.

A misfire can be caused by loose wires, low compression, bad fuel, low fuel pressure, improper injection, and a vacuum leak.

I understand all I know is that I started the car wrong I didn't turn the key and hold it long enough if you know what I meant. Everytime I've done this the light came on its only happened twice

Not really. In my more than 30 years of working on cars, all that's been required to start the car is to turn the key until it starts. Keeping the key turned to the start position after it's started can cause damage to the engine and the starter.

Ok I'll just get it diagnosed this weekend thanks alot

do some checks yourself first. Make sure the cam and crank sensors are firmly seated and not loose. Check the wiring for the coil packs. Good clean connectors. Make sure the plug wires/connectors are properly seated. Use a noid light to check the injectors. If you can, use a scope to view the injector pulse waveforms. Check all grounds having to do with the ignition and fuel injection systems.

THEN take it to a shop that will hook it up to a VAG 1551/5051 tool for free.

Hello again so I got a new battery for my key fob , and it still isn't unlocking my car what else could be the problem ?