1992 Jetta Vento 2.0 wants to quit when driving. 100% solved

Need to know what is missing when it is dead.Next time it dies, test for spark and fuel pressure with a manual press. gauge.If we can narrow it down then we can fix it

[quote:f9ae30677a="2CarPro Jack"]Need to know what is missing when it is dead.Next time it dies, test for spark and fuel pressure with a manual press. gauge.If we can narrow it down then we can fix it[/quote:f9ae30677a]

Hi
Thanks for the quick reply.
I forgot to mention that I smell gas after the car quits. The cockpit and gauges all remain lit and it does not appear to be ignition switch related. When driving to work in the morning the accuracy of the first symptoms is within about the same 1/2 KM. I had a garage check the fuel pressure before and it was OK. I have connected a PC and there was no fault code. Some times the car will not quit completely, but it will shake and idle really rough and then eventually quit.It will always start back up and drive for a few minutes and then the same thing happens.
Could it be the oxygen sensor? I remember some time ago I had the exhaust system welded in a ma and pa garage. Maybe the sensor got damaged.

Not likely,but not impossible.Need to check the spark when it is dead. Sounds like something in the ignition is shorting when hot.

That is the tricky part. When it dies it will usually start again quickly. If I take an extra plug and ground it then turn the engine over that should be enough to determine if there is a spark coming from the distributor.
Any idea what could be shorting?
The ignition coil is new.
Thanks again for your quick response.

Might be something along the lines of the ignition module or crank sensor

I think I can replace the crank sensor with little cost. An ignition module can also be called the ignition coil? I have replaced the ignition coil already.

the module is a controller for the ignition

Does this car have a separate ignition module? Should it be on the firewall on the engine side or behind the dash. Or is it somewhere different? I added a picture of one type of module for other to see. And I added a picture of the ignition coil that my car has. I will change it next week if I can find it. Regards, Scott

One thing I just remembered.
I do not have a proper fuel cap on the car. Someone stole the fuel cap and I never got around to replacing it. I am simply using a top off a spray paint can. Could it be a problem with vacuum in the gas tank? Having the pump in the tank I didn't think that would be a problem. I will put a new cap on it and try it right away.

NO. My pic of the underhood electronics is of poor quality, I cant tell where the ign module is. Is the pic of the one your car calls for?

I added a new pic. This is the type of ignition coil and ignition module that is on my car. The ignition module is under the coil but it is part of the whole piece. It is not a separate module as in some other models. For the car (Vento 2.0 GT 1992 4cyl) the part number from VW is: 6N0 905 104 The crank sensor part number from VW is: 051 905 381 As my ignition coil/module is new I will try replacing the crank sensor to see if that makes a difference? I have seen that over 90 people have looked at this topic. Is everyone experiencing similar problems? Anyone have any luck? Regards, Scott

I am having a similar problem with a 97 VW Jetta. I suspected the engine control unit which is mounted to the coil as yours is. (the picture looks exactly like mine) I believe I have traced the problem to the purge valve located near the air cleaner. One forum I read online suggested problems could arise from changing fuel octane. I checked with the customer and he said he put premium fuel in the car a few days before the trouble occured. That is where I am in the process. When I tap on the purge valve the car will start and run but it is rough. The car hesitates when I press the accelerator.

Powerproranger

Thanks for the info. I remember along time ago putting better fuel in a few times as I thought it was good to use it from time to time.
I will take a look at this purge valve also. I will send an update early in the week.

Regards,

Scott

I added a picture of the purge valve from my car. I took this picture so it is the actual one in my car at this time. I have not changed it or looked at it yet but I will get around to it this week. Powerproranger Were the symptoms similar? Like 18 to 24 miles with no problem? And then continuous problems? Then when the engine is completely cold the same situation.

I'm having the same problem as a few others here. My wife's 99 Jetta (old body style so really 98 1/2) dies and won't start after a car wash and/or heavy rain. After reading this board I'm 95% certain that the problem lies in the ignition system.

So far, I've replaced the distributor cap and attempted to replace the coil / module. I picked up and installed a new one from Kragen, and strangely, the car barely starts, idles rough and then dies. I replace the new coil with the old one and the car started right up. Is it possible that Kragen actually sold a bad coil, or could there be a bigger issue here?

I also still need to pick up a spray bottle to test the various components, but is there a chance that the problem could be in the crankshaft position sensor? If so, does anyone know where this sensor is and how difficult it is to replace it?

Many thanks! I've had two mechanics tell me that there is no way they can diagnose and fix this problem, so I can certainly use all the help I can get.

Hi there. The crank position sensor should be easy to find and replace. It is a sensor that is checking the teeth on a gear wheel to the side of the engine. As the crank is at the bottom of the engine you will probably have better luck looking under the care , just above the oil pan. I have attached a picture of a common VW crank position sensor. I believe that my 1992 Vento 2.0 does not have this sensor. I have also been investigating the knock sensor. I attached a picture of it also ( the larger picture).

Do you think it is likely that water would affect this rather than the coil?

Hi

I am not a mechanic, I am just trying to to identify the potential issues. As my problem only occurs when the engine is hot I was thinking that it could have been the knock sensor as it is attached to the engine block.
After driving to work today I know that a new knock sensor did not solve the issue. I cleaned the throttle body and purge valve and did manage to drive 100 miles with no problems. Just when I was feeling good about the situation the problem came back.

I changed the distributor. The problem was not the rotor or distributor cap. The problem was that when the distributor got hot it was not always allowing the hall sensor to send a signal to the ignition coil to fire. I changed the complete distributor including all the pieces such as: 1. Hall sensor 2. Rotor 3. Distributor cap 4. distributor body with seals, gears etc. I changed everything you see in the picture. When you buy the complete distributor the hall sensor should be in it. I changed everything because it came as a complete unit. But you may be able to buy the distributor body separate or used. My car runs like a new car. I hope this helps all the people that have visited this post.