Van was running, shut off and now will not start

The ether should have substituted for the entire fuel system, so if it did not start with ether, it sounds like you have a different problem. Check for a spark next. Check the ECM 1 fuse in the under hood fuse block.

Should I get a glow on an circuit tester by touching the node on the distributor cap where the spark plug wire connects? Periodic glow when I attempt to start.

You should check that fuse first. Then if need be check for a spark if it was not just a blown fuse. To check for a spark, disconnect one spark plug wire and the end where the spark plug is, place a good spark plug in the spark plug wire, then lay the spark plug on the metal engine block to ground it, then watch for a spark across the gap while cranking the starter over with the key. You may need a helper if you cannot see it.

Seems there is no power on the row the ECM1 fuse is on. I will need to take the fuse box out to make sure it is getting connection on the back?

Did you remember to turn the key to run?
If so, that fuse is fed from the ignition switch and before that the IGN A fuse in the under hood fuse block.

Okay, checked the ECM1 and all fuses on that row with the key on and there is power getting through the fuse.

I rechecked the fuse block inside under the instrument panel and there are three fuses that are not getting any power on either side. And when I remove the fuse, both terminals do not light up the tester. Those fuses are at position 5, 8 and 14; Hazard, Crank and Illum. Sometimes position 21 (security) lights up the tester, but not always.

Do you have voltage to the pink wires to the ignition coil and the ignition control module with the key on run? For the crank fuse, it is only hot with the key on start. #5 hazard is fed from the BATT fuse under the hood. #14 illum is fed from the headlamp switch and before that #4 gauges fuse in the ip block. the security #21 is fed from the lighting fuse under the hood.

All connectors under the engine cover inside the cab have power to one or two wires. I cranked the engine with the spark plug wire disconnected to check for spark with the tester and did not get a spark. I checked the wire feeding the inside node of the distributor (I guess coming from the coil?) and there is no spark there either. I checked the wire going into the coil? and there is power. Nothing coming out of the coil though. Am I right, that is the coil?

Also, is the coil normally replaced during an engine tune up? The distributor cap was replaced, but not the coil.

No, the coil is not usually replaced when doing a tune-up, only if it's bad. I have to ask, cause I have seen it, did you forget to install a rotor?
Did this problem happen immediately after the tune-up?
I am assuming the coil is inside the distributor cap? If it was, there would be no secondary coil wire. You may have a faulty ignition coil or maybe even a faulty ignition control module. First though confirm that the pink wire has voltage to it with the key on run/ engine off that check the coil.
Here are some tests and note the ignition control module can usually be tested at an autoparts store once you remove it and take it in.

No, the problem did not occur immediately. I drove it about sixty miles total. Started it several times over the course of a couple of weeks. Then last week the issue occurred. I can only assume that everything was put in place as it was running for quite a while (several days) since the tune up.

Okay, then complete the tests and if you have to get the ignition control module tested call around and see what auto-parts store have a tester, usually it is free.