No start, crankshaft position sensor?

Just to clarify, the engine clicks and does not turn over? Meaning it does not try to start? If that is the case, then the crankshaft sensor is not the issue. The crank sensor is used to locate the crank position when the engine is turning. It will not prevent the engine from trying to start.

Here is a guide that gets more into a click no start issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

What color was the smoke when the engine was running? I would suggest starting with putting a wrench on the crank pulley bolt and making sure you can turn the engine over to ensure it is not seized.

Let me know if this is accurate and we can go from there. Thanks

When trying to start, the truck just makes a clicking noise, but doesn't turn over. The smoke was blue mostly then turns to grey. I will definitely do the test of seeing if the engine is seized.
Thank you so much for your help, I'll be in touch to let you know how i make out.

Sounds great. That is good info. We may have two issues. If the motor is free and not locked up then we may just have a starter issue. Then we can tackle smoking issue separately. I will wait to hear back that the motor is not locked up and we can go from there. Thanks

Also, try spinning it over 360 degrees just to see if it make at least one complete revolution.

i have traced wiring from fuel pump to relay box its ok. i replaced ignition, no change. i then replaced camshaft positioning sensor no change, i then replaced crankshaft positioning sensor then got power to fuel pump and got fire. it ran for about 20 seconds and stopped. i then replaced crankshaft sensor again no change. no power to fuel pump and no fire to plugs. what do i do next?

Switch the EEC relay with another relay with the same part number. See if that changes anything. The relay is under the hood in the relay block.

i changed eec relay no change. i have tested all sensors and relays. i finally came up with only 0.34 volts to the coil packs. the red/ltgrn wire leads to pats module on the steering column. could that be my problem/

It sounds like it. Now the problem is the wiring bad or another component. Have you checked the wiring for continunity?

i have checked the wiring with no luck. not sure if i'm checking the right wires or not. the module seems to be round and mounted to the steering column and has three wires coming out the plug and one is red/ltgrn but no continuity

Pull up the RPM reading and crank the engine over. Hold accelerator to floor to shut off fuel to the engine. No reading find the crank sensor, inspect for damage, unplug electrical connector and clean it with electrcial contact cleaner spray and then plug the connector back into the sensor. Crank the engine while watching for RPM reading, again hold down the accelerator to prevent fuel flow to the engine. If you have RPM reading now sensor is ok, engine should run. The sensor by nature is very durable and should not fail. If you still do not see RPM you may have a internally damaged sensor or wiring problem.

I have a rough idle its a 4.6 V8 4x4 auto changed plugs, wires, bench tested fuel injectors got a 0174 code a while ago but I have disconnected the battery so its not come back, I am not driving it. Also changed cam sensor and crankshaft sensor put maf and ecm in friends truck they work, I did a Vaccume test it reads between 5 and 10 inch hg with the beedle going back and forth between the two. at 2000 rpms its goes to 15 in hg and shakes back and forth not as bad at idle. I checked all vac lines and clean the maf iac and throttle body, Help lol Also the egr is deleted and the pcv is blocked of the truck was running fine like that for a year. I don't have a lot of cash left but if you help me when I do I will donate you have my word. Also did a fuel pressure test and changed inline fuel filter

your vacuum gauge gave you the answer. you have a valve train issue. do a compression test and you find the failed cylinder.

shame you replaced all those parts. you should always start with basics.

Roy

i checked the crank sensor with a multi meter and the ohms reading is around 34-35. is this OK or is this the problem with it not getting any fire and starting? what should it be reading?

Don't know what normal is because that's a test we rarely do. This is a simple two-wire magnetic sensor so there's just a real long piece of wire wrapped around a magnet. Failures are typically going to consist of a broken wire, meaning infinite resistance, or corrosion between the connector terminals. It isn't likely one of these will short internally because the wire would have to get hot enough long enough to melt the insulation, and that's not going to happen.

If you want to know what a typical reading is, measure a new one or a used one in a salvage yard. The online service manuals don't even give a spec. Basically you're looking for something or nothing. The exact value isn't that important.

Also, you weren't clear in your reading. If that was 34 ohms, I could believe that. If that was 34kohms, that would be too high. Some ABS wheel speed sensor with a similar design can be in the area of 500 to 900 ohms. What's much more important is the voltage of the signal the sensor is putting out. If that is present but too low, look for something causing the air gap to be too big.

OK that helps!! thank you!! I'll check the terminals and wiring!!

Where is the crankshaft position sensor located on my truck? I do not have any of the above listed items. Do I need to take it to a Ford shop to have them run a scan on it or can I unhook the battery to attempt to reset it?

A buddy said it might be that, I am just trying to figure out what is wrong with it and taking whatever advice I can get.

It was parked for a about two and half years and would only be driven every now and then because I was overseas. It started acting up after about two years and would lose power while my wife was driving and then quit running. If it would sit for a while she could start it back up and it would make it home. When I got home I changed out the fuel pump, coil, and had ignition module checked. Now it starts sometimes and other times it will not. If it does start it might run for a few minutes and then shut off. When it shuts off, it is as if someone turns off the key. It has no rhyme or reason as to when it will start or not.

I have a 1992 Ford F150, 4.9 L, 300 straight six engine. Will crank over but not start. Have replaced the alternator, distributor cap and button, and still will not start. Thought it was crank sensor. Some told me it is located in alternator, some say it is not. Anyone have any opinions on this?

location is at front of engine behind front pulley. Should take about 20 minutes to change out. This video show what to do its on a different car but you get the idea.

https://youtu.be/_xoGyRrHYbM

where is the crankshaft sensor and does a 1995 ford F1 50 have a sensor it's a 302 5.0 L automatic

since your truck has a distributor it does not have a crank sensor.

Roy

Fuel filter has been changed fuel pump comes on truck will crank but not start could it be the crank sensor

Check back by the spare tire for the fuel pump drver module it may be corrodid and it burned out most common problem with fords

Check to see if there is spark to the plugs. Also, even though you hear the fuel pump run, you should check to see if the pressure is within the manufacturer's specs.

Wondering where the crankshaft position sensor is located on my 1992 Fordf150, I have had problems with it starting. It cranks but will not start, check engine light on, read code, it stated EEC module, replaced and still same thing. Was told to check crankshaft sensor.

Hello,

This is a mid year shift some crankshaft sensors are called hall effect sensor located in the distributor. Check the diagrams below.

Other sensors are located at the crankshaft front. Disconnect sensor connector and measure resistance across sensor terminals. Resistance should be 300-750 ohms. If resistance is not as specified, replace sensor.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

1992 Ford F150 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive
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I've been having some trouble with my truck. I'm getting spark to the coil, but not from it. I have replaced the coil, the ignition module, the distributor, and numerous other things. I was just informed that it may be a problem with the crankshaft sensor and I'm searching through my Haynes Repair Manual and can't seem to find it. Any advice???

what you mean your getting spark to the coil/

do you mean your getting spark from the coil to the distributor, but nothing leaves the distributor?

When it heats up it shuts down. I have changed the ICM and several other sensors plus the distributor. The ICM I had was used and worked for a couple weeks until it quit. Then replaced the old with a new one which worked for a couple months until it apparently shorted out. so I am thinking that maybe the PCM is faulty and after time sends a wrong signal and shorts out the ICM. Does it sound like IAM on the right path or maybe by coincidence I just had a faulty new ICM? Also, I do not have a crank position sensor on this year. I really hate to plug in a new module and have it go bad in a couple months. Really need some help. Thanks, Pete

It could be the ignition coil shorting out causing he ICM to go out.

Here is a guide on how to test coil:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

that was the first thing that I changed , I am going to change the pcm, kinda at the end of my rope with this problem. Thank You

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken