clunking sound when accelerating quickly after shifting from reverse to drive

Maybe your engine/transmission mounts are worn.

If you raise the hood and fire it up.

With your foot on the brake, shift it from forward to reverse (repeat).

While your pal stands beside the vehicle not in front! and watches how much the engine 'torques" in either direction.

It is normal for it to lurch or torque some.

If you need a better opinion, maybe a real car oriented person at the auto parts store might offer more information. Surely you might also talk a mechanic into a free look-see!

The Medic

Wear and normal fit tolerances in the transmission, axles, and bearings will result in quite a bit of motion and a clunk when you shift from reverse to drive as all of that "slop" is taken up. Worn transmission and engine mounts contribute even more motion. From your description it sounds like you are backing up, switching gears and hitting the gas without using the brakes to stop the car. If that is the case you will soon discover the worn parts as they shatter from the constant beating that behavior gives them.

Yes I understand what your saying but this does not just happen only when in gear. if I start up the engine and let it idle for about ten minutes then I rev the engine, I hear the same sound so am going to try and describe the sound. It sounds like if you were driving stick and suddenly decelerates say to climb over a road bump but trying to accelerate again using for instance fourth gear. Do you know that sound? Goes like "clor-clor-clor-clor". happens almost for like a fraction of a second then it stops. I wish I could send you a video or the sound.

I need to add that the sound only happens when I depressed the pedal abruptly not when I press with what you would assume as normal pace. You cannot drive get away with my MDX, it will fail. You will hear that loud clor-clor sound as soon as your foot is on the pedal abruptly.

You could make a video and just post it somewhere and add a link. facebook, youtube

From that description it could be engine misfire, just not enough to set a code. A good scan tool reading the misfire data would show that. Then you need to track down the cause.

Okay will do just that soonest!