clutch going bad it not working?

Good evening,

No, if it was the throwout bearing, it would make noise when you push the clutch in.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-standard-transmission-works

When you have no noise with the pedal down, the input bearing on the input shaft is the noise and must be replaced.

The transmission will need to be removed to gain access to the bearing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/transmission-replacement-removal-manual

Roy

Just recently installed a new clutch and put the transmission back on. I shift the truck into first gear and it does not move. I do hear what sounds like grinding when I release clutch. What could the problem be? I used a clutch alignment tool to align the clutch before putting transmission in. Is it possible I was given the wrong clutch plate and disc? Is it possible the input shaft is not quite matched up to the clutch plate even though the transmission is fully mounted?

Good afternoon.

When you got the clutch, did you verify the new disc fit correctly on the input shaft? there are different size discs and if you have the wrong one, it would explain the noise. this guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/clutch-doesnt-work-sometimes-or-not-at-all

Roy

The clutch plate fits perfectly over the imput shaft. Reinstalled the tranny still no rotation out of the out put shaft. Thinking something may have broke in the transmission. As i drained the transmission there are metal pieces attached to the drain bolt.

Metal pieces are not good. Could very well be a failed output shaft. I take it none of the gears function? If that is the case I would pull the transmission and open it up. Broken parts should be obvious. This one look like yours? That is an NV3500/Getrag290.

Steve that looks like my transmission. I started the truck and recorded a video of what it is doing. I feel as the the input shaft is not splined into the clutch plate. I think it is to far back. Away from the engine. Would that be an indicator that there is something internally wrong?

Yes it would. you will need to remove the transmission again and see if when you turn the input shaft, does the output turn with it. make sure it is in a gear.

Roy

Here is the video.

sounds like you will be needing to get another transmission.

Roy

If it is setting in too far it could be the input shaft bearings. You can find those transmissions all over the place, or you could rebuild that one, a kit with all the bearings and gaskets is not that expensive.

Update, I did pull the transmission and a bearing came apart, the gears are all messed up.

Time for another transmission.

Try www.car-part.com

Roy

I love that site, I am saving for one.

I've replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder on my truck. While bleeding the line I'll get some air and fluid. After a couple times I'll get nothing. No air or fluid. Am I missing something or is this normal? please help. I'm completely lost. thanks

Okay, update: Got the lines bled and all the air out. Now the clutch pedal is so stiff I cant push it down at all. And can't get it to go in any gear. I'm completely lost. Please help

Welcome to 2CarPros.

If you can't move it at all, something is together wrong. If you open the bleeder on the slave, does the clutch pedal move? If it does, remove the slave and check to make sure it was properly installed. Something is causing it not to move.

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, I'll sure check that. But not 100% sure on how to check if it's in right or not. I've never done clutches before. This is new territory for me.

Do this. When it's removed, gently push the clutch and see if the slave is reacting. As far as install, it should push right in for you (the opposite of removing the old one). What prompted you to replace the parts? Did something fail?

Joe

my 89 cheyenne with the 4.3 is sittin in my yard and its makin me sad what was happening was when i first bought the truck the clutch was great then i started to notice i was loosing fluid in the clutch master cylinder, well after i topped it off thats where the problems started, i started to loose my pedal and it got to the point it wouldnt go into gear, so i went under and opened the bleeder on the slave cylinder to try to get the air out and thats when i lost my pedal completely and it wouldnt build up pressure anymore, my question is before i started to loose my pedal my clutch was great no slipping no problem changing gears, nothing does this sound like a master cylinder problem or something else. Any help would be greatly appreciated

It could be a bad master but it could also be a leaking slave cylinder. I hope it was brake fluid that you put in there. Otherwise you'll be replacing both parts and all the rubber lines too because oil would destroy everything. this can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/clutch-doesnt-work-sometimes-or-not-at-all

The clutch pedal was stuck on the floor. And it had no clutch at all. So figured it was best if I replaced everything I could on it. It hasn't ran in five years. It was my dad's truck. And he got sick and couldn't work on it so it just sat there until about a month ago. I've got it back running. Just stuck on this darn clutch, lol.

it was brake fluid and i dont think its the slave cylinder the moisture was around the line coming off the master cylinder the slave cylinder didnt have any fluid leaking around it

Let me know what happens when you remove the slave. Something may be frozen up on the clutch if it sat.

Take care,
Joe

Unless someone has recently had the master cylinder off, the line is not where you will find leakage. It would be at the rear of the master where the seals are. Lines don't "unseal" themselves.

Update. Took the slave out and pedal still won't budge. Crack the bleeder valve open on the slave and the pedal will move. I'm at a complete loss. Please help

If it moves when you open the bleeder, the slave needs replaced. It must be frozen internally. If it was the clutch master cylinder, it still wouldn't move. If it was internal, it would move when removed.

I realize you already have it out, but wanted to at least provide the directions for bleeding. You will need to do that after it is replaced. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

___________________________________

1991 Chevy Truck C 1500 Truck 2WD V6-262 4.3L
System Bleeding
Vehicle Transmission and Drivetrain Clutch Service and Repair Procedures System Bleeding
SYSTEM BLEEDING
Bleeding Hydraulic Clutch Actuator



Pic 1



pic 2



Bleeding

1. Fill the reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid.

Note: Never, under any circumstances, use fluid which has been bled from a system to fill the reservoir, as it may be aerated, have too much moisture content and possibly be contaminated.

2. Remove the secondary (slave) cylinder (27) and tip the bleeder screw (32) up.
3. Hold the clutch pedal down, open the bleeder screw (32) to let air and fluid escape, and close the bleeder screw (32). Let the clutch pedal up.
4. Repeat step 3 until all air is out of the system.

Note: Check and refill the reservoir as needed while bleeding so that air is not drawn into the system.

5. Install the secondary (slave) cylinder (27) and refill the reservoir if needed.

_______________________

Let me know if this helps. Also, let me know if it takes care of the problem.

Take care,
Joe

That's with a brand new slave cylinder. After I bleed the system the pedal gets as hard as a rock.

waiting at a stop sign with clutch engaged, i went to release the clutch and it would attempt to take off but pedal stayed to floor and of course engine died. even while waiting at stop sign tried to shift out of first and into neutral could not shift out of first gear then i take foot off of clutch ( pedal stays on floor) engine dies, for pedal to come back up i pumped a couple of times. when i tried again it worked fine, but after a couple of stops it did it again. check master cylinder fluid was good. checked for leaks, all the way down to slave cylinder. now i took off side bolt? don't know for sure about the rest of my explanation but here it is: I felt inside the hole and it was dry . i was expecting too feel some kind of oil but felt dry powdery stuff. if this is the slave cylinder, shouldn't there be oil in there? had a person push clutch and the cylinder moved? so is the line clogged or what is it? please help

The slave is a sealed unit, so you wouldn't feel anything wet. As far as the powder, that is clutch material. Based on your description, it the slave is working, then my guess is the pressure plate is bad.

Welcome back:

If the slave is removed and the pedal is hard, and when you open the bleeder you can depress the clutch pedal, you may have gotten a bad slave cylinder. Something is preventing the slave from allowing you to depress the clutch pedal. Now, if you told me you could press the clutch pedal without opening the bleeder once the slave was removed, then I would suspect the release bearing is frozen or there was an internal problem.

If the slave is new (and I have been wrong before so I can't guarantee this) I would return it under warranty and get a new one to see if it changes. With the slave out, you should be able to press the pedal because there isn't any resistance.

Let me know.

Joe

thanks for the info. before i was able to read your response to my 89 chevrolet silverado slave cylinder i just decided to start from the top and eliminate the problem step by step. and to my luck the clutch master cylinder was the main problem, and so looking at the slave cylinder to be the next thing to replace. i appreciate your advice and info. more than likely you will be hearing from me again, on other vehicle problems. you were a great help!!

Okay, thanks you for your advice. I'll definitely try this in the morning and see what happens. So if I replace it again and it does the same thing. Hard pedal that won't move. Do you think it is the clutch plate or bearing?

I'm glad you found the problem. That is actually better than the pressure plate. As far as questions in the future, let us know. We'll be glad to help.

Joe

If the clutch pedal is stuck with the slave disconnected from the transmission, it is something between the clutch pedal and the slave. It wouldn't indicate an issue within the clutch assembly because it wouldn't be connected to it.

Let me know the results.

Joe

I sure will. I'll work on that first thing tomorrow. Thanks again

You are very welcome. I will watch for your reply.

Take care,
Joe

So put the new slave in and same thing after needing the air the pedal is solid and won't move at all. What if I take the inspection plate off and gently tap the fork to see if it's just stuck? At this point I don't know what else to do.

So with slave out still can't push the pedal down. I'm so lost.

So latest update. Put another slave cylinder in I've had for a back up. And boom we now have a clutch. Took it around the neighborhood and shifted like new. Now I've just got to bottom up some small issues. Cutting out and things like that. But it's back on the road after six years of sitting/ thanks for your help Joe.

Welcome back:

I'm happy to hear you got it going. I suspected the slave because you said when it was off the vehicle, it was still locked until you opened the bleeder. That's the only thing it could have been.

Regardless, it's great to hear after 6 years, it's going again.

Take care and let us know if you run into any trouble or need help.

Joe