Transmission not shifting?

Hello, I'm Tom.

So did your transmission just stop going into gear all of a sudden or has it been slipping which led you to check its fluid level? Then you checked your fluid and it was low only 1/2 quart? To properly check the transmission fluid the engine has to be warm on level ground running and in park. Is that how you checked its level? It would be unusual to just stop going into gear without it slipping for a while first. Smell the fluid to see if it smells burnt and check its color. it should be red and clear. If it's dark and not clear-ish it's a symptom of internal wear.
Let me know,
Tom

I drove to the auto parts store and checked the fluid in park and running. Appeared to be slightly low so I added 1/2 quart. It did have a hard shift before so I would let off the gas a bit to prevent this.. also instead of lowering rpm's when shift into drive it would actually raise rpm's a bit.

Lets start by checking for codes this guide will help us. You could have a shift solenoid not working.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down these guides and report back.

Okay. Later today. Thanks

Good morning,

The fact it goes into reverse tells me the fluid level is correct.

If it does not go into drive or forward gears, there is most likely a failure of the forward clutch pack inside the transmission which controls forward movement.

This will require removal and dis assembly of the transmission to determine the failure. It would be a better choice to consider a used transmission to keep the cost down or replace it with a rebuilt unit.

A rebuilt unit would be around $3,000.00 while a used one would be around $1,500.00. I found a rebuilt for $1,500.00 at rock auto. I attached it for you to view.

Roy

Thank you.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

My transmission died and wouldn't shift into 2nd or reverse, etc, etc. I had it worked on/rebuilt. Many things were replaced - gears, solenoids a couple of times, a big round drum things (okay, I'm not the mechanic obviously), valves cleaned so the balls move, piston/springs replaced, new fluid and filter (he said there was a filter that was too small and he put in a longer truck filter). It was taken apart and put back together a few times because he can't figure out what is wrong with it now. Rear works fine. 1st works fine. 2nd has a small hiccup but works. 3rd and overdrive are hit or miss and requires heavy RPMs to get it to change and generally hard, sometimes very hard. I also heard something that sounded like air brakes releasing. No, I am not driving it other than to get it home after the mechanic apologized profusely and didn't charge anything, though I did give him some anyway for the work he did do as far as replacing parts.

So, any ideas?

Hi samimgreen,

Thank you for the donation.

Here are description of possible causes for the condition.


Slipping, Rough Or No 3-4 Shift
Check oil pump assembly faces not flat or pump cover retainer and ball assembly omitted or damaged. Valve body assembly 2-3 shift train, accumulator valve, 1-2 shift valve or 3-2 control valve stuck. Manual valve link bent or damaged. Spacer plate or gaskets incorrect, damaged or not positioned properly. Defective 2-4 servo assembly.

Incorrect band apply pin. Servo seals missing or damaged. Porosity in pistons, cover or case. Plugged or missing orifice cup plug. Case 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly leaking. Porosity in 3-4 accumulator piston or bore. 3-4 accumulator piston seal or seal grooves damaged. Restricted oil passage. Defective input housing assembly. Forward or 3-4 clutch plates worn, or excessive plate travel.

Forward or 3-4 piston seals damaged. Porosity in 3-4 clutch housing or piston. 3-4 piston check ball
stuck, damaged or not sealing. Restricted apply passages. Forward clutch piston retainer and ball
assembly not seating. 2-4 band worn or not positioned properly. Sealing balls loose or missing.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

Truck will not start out in 1st gear, but uses 2nd. Then it won't shift into overdrive. Checked fluid and it was about 1/2 quart low. Added fluid, then test drove again. Clunks when putting truck in drive or reverse. Service engine soon light came on 1 day earlier.

I do not have any leaks, or smell burnt fluid, as is typical with transmission failure. Fluid and filter is changed about every 75,000 miles.

At 200k nothing would surprise me, that is alot of miles for an automatic trans. Have the PCM scanned to see what code it has (check engine light) it will probably pertain to the trans and may lead to a fix.

Transmission problem
1999 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

How do I fix the shifter to the transmission? When I go to put it in gear I have to climb underneath the truck and manually put it in gear.

Hi basinari,

Thank you for the donation.

Seems the transmisison shift linkage are detached or bushes are worn.

You need to check which part has gotten loose.

Are you able to move the shifter lever out of park?

trns will not shift except manulally

First thing you need to do is have the codes read, Autozone does it free, Post the results with the code number(s). Even if the service engine light is not on, there should be freeze frame data stored.
With a no shift condition, it must have the service engine light on...

my trans will not shift out of second gear itshifts 1-2 but will not go to third oil does not seem to be burnt. I had a check engine light for cylinder #4 misfire so I changed plugs and wires and had code cleared check engine light has not come back but still will not shift.

Hi
trans in "limp in mode" TCM has detected sensor input fault should not been drive for long period. MIl maynot be on but need a Scan Tool hooked to check sensor input to see what failed.
Hope this helps
Thanks for donate

Okay, i have changed transmission fluid, both shift solenoids, VSS, ECM, and had the transmission rebuilt. Still no third or fourth gear. It acts like it is stuck in second. It shifts from first to second fine. Just wont shift to third or overdrive. I have checked fuses and they are all good there.
Transmission has sixteen miles on rebuild. Transmission guy swears it has to be electrical. Please help! 4L60e transmission.

Good afternoon.

Did you verify voltage to all the solenoids?

Are there any codes set?

Roy

You will need to check for powers to all the solenoids listed and make sure the return wires back to the pcm are good as well.

Make sure the TPS sensor on the throttle body is good as well. do a sweep test from 0 to 5 volts with no glitches as it controls transmission shift points.

Roy

Thank you Roy. I will verify all voltage tomorrow morning and re-post what i have found. Right now all systems (speedometer, shift lights, tachometer) are working. no check engine light either. Next step check voltages. Lol. Thank you again.

You are welcome. keep us updated.

Roy

My Service Engine Soon light came on and at the same time I observed that neither my speedometer or tech were working. When I shifted from Park to Drive, I noticed that my PND indicator was not eluminated, then as I began to excellerate I noticed the car was very sluggish as if I were not in first gear. I then manually shuifted to 1st and the car excellerated normally. After excellerating up in speed I moved the shifter to 2nd with no change in gearing, then to Drive (3rd) and felt a transmission shift, then into O-drive with no change in transmission shift (did not move into overdrive). I checked the associated PND fuse which was fine, then search for any other potential bad fuse but could not find anything. Your assistance and advised is greatly appreciated.

Don

Hi
Maybe the speed sensor is faulty go to an Auto Zone and have codes read then post will advise.

Roy,..no dice..installed new tps and still no shift from 2nd. Doesnt even try. Got all the way to 50mph..nothing.

Auto Zone no longer provides this service stating new state laws prohibit unless your certified. I then went ahead and changed the speed sensor (the until at the end of the transmission). Because I do not have equipment to clear the error, I disconnected the battery for about 45 minutes hoping this would clear the error. I then attached the battery but the error (service engine soor)remains and when I test drove the car the same issues remain (no speed-o, no tech, no PRDNL indicator, does not shift gears in auto).

Your next thought please

Do i need to reset the computer since i installed a new TPS ??

Without codes going to next to impossible to find fault. What you pay a shop to code will be saved in usless parts replacement. Maybe a community collage with Auto Tech would do it for you.

no, reset.

it most likely is a valve body issue in the transmission.

did you check the voltage as I suggested at the TPS?

OK, got all the codes

P0141, B152, P0700-Trans, PO753 1-2 Shift, P1860-TCC, P007582-3 Shift, P0785 3-2 Shifts, P0141-0-2 Sensor

Obsiously the O2 sensor has issues. and trans errors have occured. What continues to confuse me is why the Tach is not working. It measures motor RPM. I can understand if there is an issue related to the Tach therefore effecting transmission, but Chevy, where I paid for the codes to be read, whats to taredown transmission and inspect. Your help and advise is grately appreciated.

Don

Erratic at TPS. So bought new one. Going to pull plug at trans and wiring at ECM and do continuity test tomorrow. Then start looking at purchasing a new valve body.

Check Trans fuse # 20 in I/P fuse box and yes I agree with Chevy need to pull pan and check those solenoids.

Check the reference voltage and ground. the voltage should be five volts solid.

the signal wire is the one that goes to the PCM and that signal is what controls the shifts.

Roy

more than likly your ignition switch is not powering up the trans and thats why you have so many trans codes, these years of gm trucks have this common problems, replace your ignition switch and have the codes cleared, you will have the same symtoms until the codes are cleared after you replace your ignition switch. good luck!

What are the chances that this is a ground problem in the ECM/PCM? This k1500 was manufactured in 09/96.

Good news, the resolution was the key switch assembly. Had replaced and SOS message, tach, speedo and transmission all work correctly.

Thanks for the help. Although I was not able to fix the problem myself, the value- add you provided was solid info which prevented me from getting ripped off by the local chevy dealer, who insisted they had to tear down and inspect my transmission for $600.00 with no assurance it would fix the problem.

Then the transmission would not shift at all, check engine light on with many codes.

Roy

Just curious Roy, would the valve body from my 2000 4l60e work in that 1997? The 2000 is two wheel drive whereas the 1997 is four wheel drive.

They are different part numbers. no, do not swap them.

Roy

Lol. well darn. Tried to save some money. Lmao. Could the TCC be bad? Guess it is time to verify continuity and pull valve body and check for blockages. Do you have a schematic of where the ball placement is?