1995 Toyota Tacoma IAC-REMOVAL AND CLEANING

It's not the motor that you clean. It's the throttle body.

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

I have inserted a picture where it shows the general area of what I think you are talking about. I never remove any of these items. How do I remove this snorkel and then get to this throttle body that you are talking about?

That pipe and hose going across the top of the engine has to be removed so you can get at the throttle plate.

I managed to remove the intake fixtures but was not able to clean through the throttle body. What to do?

I sprayed at the Throttle-body opening and then apply Lucas injector cleaner twice and managed to run the car after pressing the gas pedal three times and let idle kick in. I pulled the troubleshooting code to be P0100. The Definition: MAF/VAF fault. Problem cause: 1. Open or short circuit condition. 2. MAF/VAF sensor failure. 3. Faulty ECM. I cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner but I still have the same troubleshooting code.

I suspect you got that code because you tried to run the engine with the tube off. You cannot do that. You need to have someone hold the throttle open when your trying to clean the throttle plate and body.

I am getting the code after putting everything back. So I am not sure what is going on.

Unless you just cleared it, that could have happened any time previously. Go back over your work and make sure you put all the hoses back on and plugged everything back in. Simply turning the key on when the sensor is unplugged will set that code.

I only took the airflow fixtures off but never removed the throttle body. I sprayed at the opening a couple of times and then apply the injector cleaner. The sensor is plugged in. Unless VAF sensor is a different sensor then then the MAF I might want to find out where that is. Also, I did clear the code by pulling the EFI fuse twice.

The VAF and MAF are the same and they are right at the end of the tube you took off, next to the air filter. That's why I think it was something you caused.

The code was the same as before that is why I started this project. I took my truck to my college to be inspected. We will soon find out what happen.

Why are you telling me this now? You question made no mention of this problem. What's any of this have to do with the IAC?

I disconnected the MAF electrical connector and test the engine if it will change, it did not. So I had it replace on the spot at Autozone and as I soon as I turned on the ignition the engine started. I have driven it for 100 miles since and no longer runs rich or have problems starting.

PS. I did clean the old MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner three times and did not work.