typical mileage for replacing brake pads

Hi there,

This is a very hard question to answer as this will depend on the brake pad hardness and the driving conditions, soft pads and city driving will eat pads quick, but country driving with hard pads will last a lot longer and fronts will wear faster than rears under normal conditions normally at a rate of 2 to 1 sets of pads. Here are instructions int he diagrams below to show you how on your car with a guide to help walk you through the steps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Just wanted to know what would be the best branded brake pads on the market. I know the difference between ceramic and metallic brake pads. Metallic are noisier and dustier than ceramic and are more meant for high performance vehicles.
Ceramic are for everyday use and are quieter and cleaner and last longer.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, organic are the cheapest and provide the most dust. Metallic are the second best and are not as dusty. Ceramic are the most expensive and last the longest. Are you asking what brand of these to use? Hope this helps and get back to us so we can go from there. Thanks for using 2CarPros.

Yes, what is the best brand to use? There is Wagner and Posi Quiet Ceramic Brake Pads. What brand would you recommend?

Hello again.

To answer your question yes, Wagner are good but my choice personally have been Bendix. But that is my personal preference for longevity, quality, and overall superior performance. You never specified on your post as to which the front or rear pads you are asking about, but here are tutorials to view for front and rear brake pad replacement:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

I just recently had my front brake pads replaced from the driver and passenger front tires only. The back tires are still good for another year.
The brakes and rotors needed replacing but in the process. I had ordered the wrong rotors so they had used only the brake pads for the front tires. To not waste time with ordering new orders, they took the rotors on the vehicle and I guess filed them down with a specific type grinding machine to perform the task.
Now, not all the time but every now and then, when applying the brakes I hear a hissing sound coming out of the front tires more from the driver's side I guess because I'm on the driver's seat. It may be from both sides but I can't tell.
What could be the problem.

Hi,

It sounds like they cut the rotors, which is a normal thing to do as long as the rotors are still within the manufacturer's specs. Often times, they just get replaced.

As far as a hissing sound, I have to ask what kind of brake pads were used. Some semi-metallic pads are known to make noise. Also, ceramic brakes can create a unique sound as well.

Are the brakes working properly? Also, I realize you mentioned that it only does is now and then. However, it is loud enough for you to record with your phone and upload for me to hear? As far as the sound, could it be described as a rubbing sound rather than a hissing? When I hear hissing, I think of an engine vacuum leak.

Let me know. Also, if you look at the two pics below, I highlighted the rotor and brake hardware in pic 1. The hardware (with arrows pointing where they go) can be bent or not properly installed, so check them. Also, make sure the rotor is smooth and there is no evidence of something cutting grooves into them.

Pic 2 shows the brake wear indicator. They are designed to touch the rotor to warn you when the pads wear out. If they are bent or loose, that could also be an issue.

Let me know.

Take care,
Joe

The brake pads are ceramic. And now that is raining outside I've yet to hear the hissing sound, as you stated like a engine vacuum leak sound.
Do you think it needs brake fluid maybe?

Hi,

I suspect it has something to do with the type of brakes. I'm saying that simply because it stopped since the rain started. Now they are wet.

As far as brake fluid, I don't feel that would cause anything like this. However, it wouldn't hurt to check. I attached a pic showing the location of the brake master cylinder reservoir location. There will be a line on it indicating full and low. Check the level. If you need to add, it requires DOT 3 brake fluid. Any parts store will have it.

I attached another pic, pic 2, so you know what you are looking for. Note that the reservoir may be shaped differently.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Mileage: 55,000

I just had a brake job done - resurface front rotors, new pads, new hardware kit etc & now while braking to a hard stop from about 45-50 mph I hear some kind of "knock-knock-knock-----" sound coming from the front end just before the van completely stops. I took it back to the dealer twice and they say there is nothing wrong with the brakes. Unfortunately, it won't do this consistently either.

Please help. Thanks.

Seems that the rotors were resurfaced to a marginal thickness or less. The heat in the hard braking could have warped the rotors.

I had the same problem with my rotors. Had to buy new rotors. That fixed the problem. Also replaced pads with ceramic pads, to cut down on dust and help with heat that is generated.

van drives fine and brakes will stop vehicle. I did not notice any brake fluid leakage at the front caliper or rear drum pistons. I hope this would solve the pedal travel issue.

Good afternoon,

If the pedal goes to the floor, there is a possible issue with the master cylinder.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

There is air in the lines from the lack of fluid. I would replace the master cylinder and bleed the system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Roy

REMOVAL
1. REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY
2. DISCONNECT LEVEL WARNING SWITCH CONNECTOR
3. DRAW OUT FLUID WITH SYRINGE

NOTICE: Do not let brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.

4. REMOVE RESERVOIR WITH BRACKET
Remove the 2 bolts and reservoir with bracket .
Torque: 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)


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5. DISCONNECT BRAKE LINES
Using SST, disconnect the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder.
SST 09023-00100
Torque: 10 mm nut: 15 Nm (155 kgf-cm, 11 ft. lbs.)
Torque: 12 mm nut: 19.6 Nm (200 kgf-cm, 14.5 ft. lbs.)


imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print


6. REMOVE MASTER CYLINDER
(a)w/o VSC:
Remove the 2 mounting nuts.
Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
(b)w/ VSC:
Disconnect the brake line from clamp and remove the bolt and clamp, then remove the 2 mounting nuts and bracket.
Torque:
Mounting nut: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
Clamp bolt: 5.0 Nm (51 kgf-cm, 44 inch lbs.)
(c)Pull out the master cylinder with gasket.
7. REMOVE GASKET FROM MASTER CYLINDER

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

HINT:
- Before installation, adjust length of brake booster push rod.
- After installation, fill the brake reservoir with brake fluid, bleed the brake system.
- Check for leaks, check and adjust brake pedal.

How do I replace the Front Brake Pads?

Hello Below are the procedures for replacing your vehicle's front brake pads..

FIG. 10

This did not help me. Can not read diagram. Pinion came out and we can not get it back into position.

that is the proper replacement procedures..if you still can't do the job take it to a shop..