My engine is hard starting?

This sounds like one of two problems, first I would service the throttle bore next check the fusel puress theses guides will help us find out what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please run down these guides and report back.

I have the same problem on a '98 Tacoma V-6. Our issue developed after we changed the timing belt, water pump and had the injectors cleaned and re-calibrated. Our rig had 194K on the odometer and prior to this work started on the first crank. The timing is correct and we had the fuel system checked for the (suspected) pressure drop. All was in order. The only thing we figure is an issue with the injectors or perhaps a corrupted gasket in the intake upon reassembly. First cold start in the morning is fine as are subsequent starts when warm provided the vehicle is restarted within minutes after shutting it off. Our problem arises when it has set for 10 to 15 minutes before a restart. Upon restart the atmosphere smells a bit rich. The Toyota now has 218K. By the way it runs smoothly at idle and at speed. Any suggestions?

Check you fuel pressure. Or even go check all the parts with fuel. Fuel pressure. fuel pump and fuel filter. This was my problem.

I have a 1996 Tacoma 4 cylinder with 94,500 miles on it. When I try to start it it takes a while to start. This is more noticable when it has warmed up then when cold. It starts about 98% to 99% of the time, however when driving it the dreaded check engine light came on. Would the plugs be possibly be causing the slow start/ sometimes rough start? Could that also be the reason for the light? I should not that I JUST replaced the battery and that the truck runs fine once started. The plugs have never been changed.Thanks in advance.

I would probably go ahead and change the plugs, although if they are iridium plugs they are supposed to last 100K. If that doesn't help I would check fuel pressure and the coolant sensor. Since this is an OBD-II car, the codes will probably have to be read with a scan tool and must be reset with a scan tool.

This guide will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please run down this guide and report back.

My truck was hard starting cold so I check out the guide to showed me the coolant sensor was bad so I got a new one and installed it it has been great so far, thank you.

My truck misses sometimes when going down the highway and if you give more gas then it
stops. It also stalls sometimes and is hard to start.
Ive installed a new oxygen sensor, spark plugs, fuel
fiter, air filter, Air flow metering devise

Has the check engine light ever come on? If so you need to pull the codes to see what the computer sees wrong.This can be done manually by going to the underhood diagnostic connector and installing a jumper wire between TE1 and E1.

Turn key on and count number of flashes of the check engine light.There will be flashes with short intervals that indicate thecodes, with long spaces in between them (See chart)

Get back with what you find

My truck seems to be burning a lot of oil and doesn't consistently start. Sometimes it only turns once and she is going and others five or six times over before it starts. I am usually putting oil in every 60-70 miles just a few oz. at a time, but almost a quart every tank of gas. Also I have noticed that the thermostat will randomly drop to cold and then back to its normal level, I don't know if they are related but I was hoping someone else might have an insight.

Cheers,
Austin

Perform a compression test both wet and dry tests to identify where its leaking valve or rings and also follow it with a cylinder leakage test.. Replace the thermostat

everytime i drive for a long time and i park when i go to work or shopping my truck has a hardtiime starting. ive changed fuel pump,and fuel filter. i have wait for a few hours. usually at work.

When it doesn't start, have you checked to see if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine?

[quote="Jacobandnickolas"]When it doesn't start, have you checked to see if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine?[/quotei have spark

Is it a good hot blue spark, then it must not be getting fuel. Have you tried using starting fluid to see if that would make it start for a few seconds. That way we could confirm that it is a fuel related problem.

Let me know.

my 1993 toyota pickup has trouble starting. it takes 3-4 cranks before it fully starts. i have replaced multiple parts, yet it has done nothing. what do you think it is?

What are the multiple parts you have replaced?

Was the fuel pressure tested?

I have replaced the alternator, distributor, all new plugs/ wires, and also the starter. i am not entirely sure about the fuel pressure. But this has been doing this the entire time i've owned it. Someone was saying to check the starter relay?

If the starter cranks, there is nothing wrong with its circuit.

Usually it is the fuel pressure that causes such symptoms. Try cycling the ignition switch ON and OFF 2 or 3 times and test if it is easier to start.

what about the ignition relay? Because the cycling of the switch is not doing anything at all. This has had me stumped for 2 years now. No mechanics seem to know the problem either...

Start with a check on the fuel pressure and power supply to the fuel pump. Ensure the fuel pump is working with sufficient pressure.

We use to be able to get in start it up and drive away, then I noticed it needed to warm up some then it would drive or the pedal might go to the floor and shut off the engine. like now one day of draining the battery trying to start it. I tried starting fluid, nothing, recharge . I did the full throttle cranked it over and it would run at 450 rpm but at full pedal or it would shut off. it is a motorhome built of a 1992 Toyota truck one ton frame. please, not head gaskets, replaced plugs and it does have spark and I do not believe you sloped a timing belt 45 psi fuel after the filter, sprays at banjo fitting. can it be a fuel pressure regulator? filter was clean so fuel lines should be fine I would assume. Are the injectors prone to sensor damage or suggestions. thank you

But when it starts up, it is perfectly fine. It will fire right up and stay running. I just asked my dad about the fuel pump though and said that we have not looked at that yet

Hello,

I would start by running the codes to see what comes up so we can get started int he right direction.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

A fuel pump can fail intermittently and fuel pressure can drop in lines after engine is stopped. thie would require the fuel pressure to build up.

Fuel pressure has to be tested after vehicle is left idle for extended periods, meaning you need to install the pressure gauge, start engine. Stop it and leave it for exended periods to check. Upon initial ignition on, check if the fuel pump is priming.

No codes given.....as I said it will start at full throttle, and will get up to temp running on all cylinders, but @ low rpm, if put in gear ( auto transmission) I bet it would die, I did feather it half throttle to full throttle and it once came up to full throttle, I backed off not to over rev the engine it went back to as mentioned low rpm....but no codes....filter was changed I can see thru the old filter a screen mess, clean after i blew it out by mouth...my only thought not knowing much...regulator, all the injectors?...as said sprays at all banjo fittings, New plugs, old looked good, has to be lack of fuel....right? Any known sensors I can jump or suggested go bad? Thanks

So what your telling me, is that I should install this gauge and take a look at the fuel pump/ pressure? how much does this usually run for just parts, considering i could do it myself.

Does the air flow meter have a test? It did back fire and blew off that intake tube to intake to it...?mass air flow or the one at butterfly ? Culprits?

You need to check the parts prices locally as they can vary according to location.
Yes, you definitely need to test the fuel prtessure to know if it is within range.

Yep, that's where I was going to go next, it is difficult to check the MAF because the values can be off enough to create a problem but if you don't have a good one to test against you will never know.

See if the air door moves freely inside of the sensor.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

awesome. well ill let you know what happens after i do that. because just this morning, it took over 20 cranks to get it going.... then after my class, it only took one turn. sound like the fuel pressure?

With 20 cranks, if it is due to fuelpressure, it most probbly means the fuel pump was not working for that period.

Recently bought the vehicle had this issue before I purchased. Has had many repairs prior to and since I purchased it as follows. Timing set, water pump, complete tune up ie, plug wires cap rotor and coil pack . Due to stripped fuel line fittings at both inlet &outlet of fuel filter it had not been serviced for over 2 yrs. However I recently changed it and it was definitely plugged it made a noticeable difference but still starts hard when cool.After running 10min. starts fine as long as it is warmed up. Also has check engine light on intermittently. It will be off for several days and randomly come on and back off. Eng.light will also come on if the pickup is let run for extended periods. I have not yet checked O2 sensor. Please help

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge autoparts rent it. if it's injected should be 38-44 psi with vacuum disconnected and 33-37 with. if carb then it should be 5 psi both shold flow about 1/2 pint in 30 seconds