My car won't start

Does it crank and will not start or just won't crank at all/nothing

This guide will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

The Cressida was only produced until 1993, and only produced with a 4 cylinder motor in the late 70's in New Zealand. You may receive better advice if you post in the proper area.

I was driving my car and all of a sudden it just cut off
and now it won't start. any idea's?

Hi perezrx, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Let's do below for a start to determine if its fuel or spark related issue and get back asap.

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

The car turns over but will not start.Have checked the plugs ,wiring, vaccume lines, what s wrong?

Cranks and no start

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

the car stopped working on my way home one day.got a boost to get home. the battery is new and was charged so i changed the alternator but after retrying to start it with fully charged battery the enginge won't turn over could it be the starter. fuses appear fine voltage at the battery was 12.4v. if so where what part of the car is the starter located.

[quote:7773425b23="Giveadamb"]Engine Mechanical problem
1987 Toyota Cressida 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 225000 miles

the car stopped working on my way home one day.got a boost to get home. the battery is new and was charged so i changed the alternator but after retrying to start it with fully charged battery the enginge won't turn over could it be the starter. fuses appear fine voltage at the battery was 12.4v. if so where what part of the car is the starter located.[/quote:7773425b23]

REPLY: That exact same thing happen to my Cressida. The Starter is under the car to the right when you are facing it. I can only get one bolt out the second bolt is in the worst place possibly.

I have a 1989 Toyota Cressida that is recently having starting problems. It has 145,000 miles. A couple of days ago, if you pushed the gas pedal, the car would move forward but it seemed as though it was missing, then it would smooth out but it would run rough again in the next gear until the rpms would increase. Then today, the car just wouldn't start. It cranks over but it seems to almost recoil alittle bit. I am totally baffled. Someone said that it the throttle position something?? Please help.

I got an 87 5M-GE that does that before it all comes down with the TPS. Make sure you adjust it right.

TPS will not cause it not to start-Check your fuel pressure.Also the cold start injector and its time switch.But the MAF will.

I call mine a Toyo Cadillac everything is electric and also its build-in computer diagnostics by a push of a button.

I have a 1985 Toyota Cressida that hasn't been started in almost 2 years. It has a straight 6 and 206,000 Miles. I have free air flow and fuel at the rail. I checked and foound that there is spark although maybe weak. I have replaced the fuel pump and the coil/condenser. I checked the timing belt and it seems fine and in time. What can I do now? Thanks.

Terry

[quote:65fc70f0fc="terrym"]I have a 1985 Toyota Cressida that hasn't been started in almost 2 years. It has a straight 6 and 206,000 Miles. I have free air flow and fuel at the rail. I checked and foound that there is spark although maybe weak. I have replaced the fuel pump and the coil/condenser. I checked the timing belt and it seems fine and in time. What can I do now? Thanks.

Terry[/quote:65fc70f0fc]

5M-GE or 7M-GE?

I have a 1988 toyota cressida GLI6 that was stationary for about 2 years & has done about 200000km. it had had no problem problem starting and was in running condition when it was parked. but now it just doesn't want to start. everything seems & sounds alright (there's petrol by the injectors, changed the battery, checked the plugs, makes the rite & promising sounds) but it just won't start.

[quote:ccf55657cd="mashao"]I have a 1988 toyota cressida GLI6 that was stationary for about 2 years & has done about 200000km. it had had no problem problem starting and was in running condition when it was parked. but now it just doesn't want to start. everything seems & sounds alright (there's petrol by the injectors, changed the battery, checked the plugs, makes the rite & promising sounds) but it just won't start.[/quote:ccf55657cd]

I'll try checking the fuel pump pressure to nail this one. 2yrs I wonder how it looks like in the tank with that old fuel in it especially the pump.

EFI don't like non specification pressures

It's an '83 Toyota Cressida inline 6 with 225k miles. A couple of days ago car went dead silent while driving. Suspected to be out of fuel (coming very close...fuel guage is misleading so I guess-timate from miles driven). Added more fuel. Cranks but no start. Battery OK (recharged after cranking many times), sparks at all plugs, fuel pump is working, no air/vacuum leaks (visibly). After doing the above, car started for a few seconds then died. Now it is back to the original state...no start...but will crank. Starter is fine (solenoid is attached...pretty sure it is also good). I believe all components of the ignition system is okay. Any suggestions? Thank you so much for your time and response.

Could be a jump timing-remove distributor cap-have helper crank engine over while you look at the rotor is it turning?

I disregarded the distributor and rotor when I performed the modified spark test where I ground the plug and crank the engine. The results were all six plugs fired. Is it conclusive enough to say it is ok?

Thanks rasmataz for the quick and helpful response!

What engine is this 5M-GE or 7M-GE

Yes the ignition is good it made all the way to the sparkplugs-color of spark is a snapping blue spark or orange looking?

Remove tube at throttle body and spray some carb cleaner in it and attempt to start-if it fires up. Do a fuel pressure check-to rule out the fuel pump and comeback and tell me what's happening. I got the 87 model/5M.

Open a few sparkplugs and look for coolant-the 5M their head are known to be bad corrosive/erodes.

The engine type is 5M-GE and the color of the spark was bluish (had white color to it...sure it is more blue than orange).

When I pulled the plugs (all of them) to test them for sparks I took a look at the piston heads. From what I can see and touch with my screwdriver, there is carbon buildup. No signs of coolant.

Here is something I found: After drying out plugs and chamber overnight from excess gas...put them back in...crank...car started for few seconds and then shuts off. I then cranked the engine and stepped on the gas peddle and the car kicked over but ran rough until I let go the peddle (then it shuts off). White smoke was coming out of the tailpipe. I could smell the gas also. Now the car is back to original state again. Just cranking. I think the the fuel is going to keep on injecting no matter if the car starts or not. Now it probably is filled with excess gas again.

I need to check for the jumped timing like you mentioned because that could be a significant factor. To do it, do I turn the engine manually and set the 1st piston to the top where the pressure (air) releases and then check to see the location of the rotor?

I am going to check the compression today and leave the fuel pressure out for now as I don't have the tool for it. That way, I would be able to eliminate the culprit down to a bad engine (whether it be of piston or valves), bad computer (since it is an electronic fuel injection system), injectors not closing a valve or something, or bad fuel pump.

Remove no.1 plug then crank engine in short burst till you feel pressure on your finger or whatever. -stop and manually turn the crank to line the marks at the pulley. Now open up the cap and look where that rotor is pointing it better be pointing to no.1 cap tower if not you've found your problem.

Good luck I'll be standing by-Happy New

1986 Toyota Cressida 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My car was sitting for about 7 months.
I tried starting the car and it would not start. The battery had a dead cell and so I bought a new battery.
Then Installed the new battery and it worked fine for one day. The next day I tried starting the car and it would not start. Any ideas of what else might be going on? Should I look at the starter?

The timing marks of the shafts pulleys are matched and the rotor is pointing at the correct no.1 position.

The compression results for cylinders 1-6 ranges from 145-155 psi. The specifications for this vehicle allows a min. compression of 128 psi, max. of 164 psi, and a max. variation between cylinders of 14 psi.

Something is causing a bad/incomplete mixture of gas/air as the spark is present. Now I am looking at the air flow meter/sensor (all together in a component), the computer itself (even though I read somewhere it has a failsafe mechanism--runs rough but will get car to service area), something is running improperly in the bosch efi fuel system (doubt it is the fuel pump as the cylinder are getting dumped with excess fuel). What are your recommendations? Should I still try to check the fuel pressure (I think it is unnecessary--agree or disagree)?

Thank you so much and enjoy the New Year

Get the alternator output test done and get back-could also be a short circuit draining the battery or problems within the starting circuit

The timing marks of the shafts pulleys are matched and the rotor is pointing at the correct no.1 position.

Did you put no.1 piston on its compression stroke -if not its 180degs out-its in the exhaust stroke.

Do this put no.1 wire at cap to no.6 and follow the direction clockwise 153624 and see what happens be rotating the distributor till it fires up.

Car had a confirmed bench tested bad alternator which was replaced and the new one in the vehicle tested by autozone showing 80+ amp output.

Idiot light is still on showing an issue with the battery.

Car has had a history of battery drain.

Any suggestions of where to look in the harness??

I am sure that I put the no.1 piston on its compression stroke (up to highest point). I did notice that when I lined up the marking the first time the rotor was pointing towards the no.6 cap position but then I took off the timing cover, the cam pulleys were not on their markings. I rotated the engine once more and then everything was aligned this time and the rotor position was at no.1 (how do I differentiate the two? I think I had the correct one)

For the recommendation you gave, do I rotate the cap or just swap the wire and try to crank the engine? At this moment all my plugs, wires, dis. cap are apart and are not connected.

Do below

Swap the wires if it starts up-you'll be doing it all over again-putting the no.1 on TDC and rotor pointing to no.1 cap tower-Keep going you're doing it good.

I got this funny feeling you got it 180degs off

What would cause the distributor be 180 degrees off? I never took the distributor out.

Can you please still elaborate on how to do this swapping and re-aligning to position no.1 as I am really confused at the moment. I took 2 semesters of auto-mechanics in high school and I don't remember this part as it has been a few years now.

Thanks rasmataz, I am beginning to feel more confident about finally coming to a resolution soon.

Hi there,

Have you got this problem resolved or do you still need assistance.

Mark (mhpautos)

I have a 89 cressida that wont turn over. Battery good, starter good, reley fine whats next to check.

check for spark. sparks should be bright blue and well defined. also check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

[quote:6612412d97="blackop555"]check for spark. sparks should be bright blue and well defined. also check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail.[/quote:6612412d97].
- All that u mention is good now what happens is when key turns u here a thump at the fly wheel.
- 89 cressida 180,000 mi

[quote:14aa5a177c="LILNOBLE"]I have a 89 cressida that wont turn over. Battery good, starter good, reley fine whats next to check.[/quote:14aa5a177c]

hi
did you check the oil and the coolant try removing the plugs and start

U may have a hydro lock
That’s when fluid sits on top the piston and will not allow it to move because the valves closed
Try also to manually turn the engine by hand to see if it does turn

Let us know
We ready to help
Good luck

Computer problem
1982 Toyota Cressida 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Fuel injectors 2 and 6 are not firing...what controls the pulse to the injectors and could it possiblly be the vaccuum/O2sensor/or fule lean mixture??

Hi there,

with one or two faulty injectors, i can often be the injector itself that is at fault, also you can do a continuity check of the injector loom back to the ECU as there may be a wiring fault as well, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)

1984 Toyota Cressida engine will not start after changing bad igniter (only one in USA located from Junk yard) (1st production car to use fuel injectors so they say) There is no signal to injector so no gas to start. It tries only to start, let it sit 5 minutes fires 1-2 hits more. Every once in a while the engine will race then next time it only fires a few hits? (Before replacing igniter, there was no fire at all. Before it completely died I use to plug in another used distributor into engine. I turned the distributor gear by hand while someone else cranked. When it almost ran on its own- I then plugged the distributor still connected in on engine to its connection and it ran fine for a week or so. It only would stop at Wal-Mart parking lot, most likely because it was my 2nd stop after it got hot! The Cressida started acting up after a short 250 mile trip in 90 degree summer weather. I only put 28,000 miles on it a year. I bought it in 1991 and never had any electrical issues with it before, except change alternator and lights! Main relay or engine relay got stuck.
Only thing I can think of now is engine computer problem. Years ago it had a similar or same problem (tries to start) and it was engine or main relay under the hood!
It died just like this 86,000 miles ago, that time I just changed fuel pump and all ok (no fire at that time either). This time it would not fire, but this time I had a garage change fuel pump. Toyota dealer ship(3rd Garage says relays-fuel pressure is OK, I find the part igniter and even let them use my shop manual which is most likely better than their computer service junk.
[email protected]

You sounded as though it doesn't have spark if so No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing