Timing Belt Marks?

Hi there,

yes change the timing belt ... Normal service interval is 80,000 KMs the job takes about 1,5 Hrs so just get a few quotes and get it sorted before you have real problems. Youc an do the job yourself though here is the marks in the link below.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/toyota/corolla/1997

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

hello, im getting a timing belt put on this weekend. I bought the goodyear/duralast (autozone brand) timing belt. I wanted to know if all the brands are the same thing or are they all different in quality. The belt i got is mae in italy, and has heat abrasion etc. Ty

I think this subject is more opinionated than factual, they are all made pretty much in the same way, exept for maybe the cheapest of the brands such as valucraft I believe as long as you dont buy the cheapest parts you'll usually have a descent product, then again Ive used valuecraft before and had very good luck with it. So an item such as that Ive never had a problem with it. but when it comes to something like brake pads and rotors, the more expensive seem to be the better choice as those rotors are made in like japan for like 3 cents a rotor(understand what im saying?). so they dont care if they are cut properly or not, why should they; they dont get paid anything to make them. SO Duralast is a descent belt in my opinion. you'll be just fine.

As you are replacing the timing belt, if it has not been replaced, may I suggest that you replace the water pump as well?..

the water pump doesnt have to come off its a 4 cyl so i wont replace it unless theres a problem with it i think ill need new brakes soon they have been squeeling lately when i come to a light.

[quote:b39cdc668c="pmp"]the water pump doesnt have to come off its a 4 cyl so i wont replace it unless theres a problem with it i think ill need new brakes soon they have been squeeling lately when i come to a light.[/quote:b39cdc668c]

I agree with Zackman on the waterpump. While you have the belt off, drain and flush the coolant and replace the WP, if you can afford it. While the WP may be OK it is good preventative maint.
Also inspect the front main seal for leaks, since if it is leaking you have to remove the belt to change it.

the waterpump is suggested sometimes, because there is so much involved in getting to the belt that you might as well get a new waterpump so that you dont have to go through that ordeal anytime soon. Your choice, if you can deal with the possibility that the pump may go soon then dont worry about it, some people would say,"if it aint broke dont fix it"

thanx for comming,
and please come back again
jody

I have a 97 corolla. Timing belt has been replaced along with plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil. It gets fuel but no spark. The engine will crank but wont catch. When this problem initiated i was doing 50 down the highway and when i came to a stop, the car died and never started. WE thought it was the fuel pump till it was replaced. Car was running great before this happened and is believed to be in great condition, minus this issue. Any ideas?

You did say that you replace the timing belt. Did you happen, by chance, not set the timing correctly? You won't get any sparks if the engine is out of time.

The Timing was set by the mechanic and the car was functioning for 3-4 weeks after the timing belt had been replaced. im not sure if it is out of time but when it cranks it sounds normal then skips then sounds normal then skips. Its like a half second chirp or skip sound while cranking the engine.It happens every 2 1/2 - 3 seconds of normal cranking. I hope that helps any...

***Start with this test***

SPARK TEST

1. Disconnect spark plug wires. Remove spark plugs. Install spark plug on each spark plug wire. Ground spark plug against cylinder block.
2. Crank engine and check for spark. If spark does exist, check ignition coil, ignitor and distributor
electrical connections.
3. If electrical connections are okay, go to next step. If electrical connections are defective, repair as
necessary and recheck for spark.
4. Using ohmmeter, check resistance of spark plug and ignition coil high tension wires. Resistance should be within specification. Maximum Ohms 25,000 Per Wire. If resistance is within specification, go to next step. If resistance is not within specification, replace high tension wire.
5. Turn ignition on. Check for battery voltage at ignitor and ignition coil positive terminal. If battery
voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, check wiring between ignition switch, ignition coil and ignitor.
6. Check ignition coil resistance. Cold: Primary @ .36-.S55, Secondary 9000-15,400 ohms. Hot: Primary .45-.65, Secondary 11,400-18,100 ohms. If ignition coil resistance is within specification, go to next step. If ignition coil resistance is not within specification, replace ignition coil.
7. Check pick-up coil resistance. Cold: Pick-Up Coil Terminals G+ & G-, 185-275 ohms. Hot: Pick-Up Coil G+ & G-, 240-325 ohms. If pick-up coil resistance is within specification, go to next step. If pick-up coil resistance is not within specification, replace distributor assembly.
8. Check resistance of crankshaft position sensor. Cold: 1630-2740 ohms, Hot: 2065-3225 ohms. If
crankshaft position sensor resistance is within specification, go to next step. If crankshaft position
sensor resistance is not within specification, replace crankshaft position sensor.
9. Check pick-up coil air gap. Spec .008-.016 (inches). If pick-up coil air gap is correct, go to next step. If pick-up coil air gap is incorrect, replace distributor assembly.
10. Check ignition IGT signal from Engine Control Module (ECM). If ignition IGT signal from ECM
is defective, a diagnostic trouble code P1300 will be set in the ECM memory to indicate a ignitor
circuit malfunction.
11. If IGT signal is okay, substitute another ignitor and recheck system operation. If IGT signal is defective, check wiring between Engine Control Module (ECM), distributor and ignitor. If wiring is defective, repair wiring as necessary and recheck system operation. If wiring is okay, substitute another ECM and recheck system operation.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR RESISTANCE
1. Crankshaft position sensor is located on front (timing belt end) of engine, just behind the
crankshaft pulley. Disconnect electrical connector for crankshaft position sensor, located near oil dipstick.
2. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals on crankshaft position sensor. Replace
crankshaft position sensor if resistance is not within specification. Reinstall electrical connector.

IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE (DISTRIBUTOR TYPE IGNITION SYSTEM)
1. Disconnect wiring from ignition coil so ignition coil is isolated from the system. Using an ohmmeter, check ignition coil primary resistance between ignition coil positive (+) and negative (-) terminals.
2. Check ignition coil secondary resistance between ignition coil positive (+) terminal and high tension terminal (coil wire tower). Replace ignition coil if resistance is not within specification.

PICK-UP COIL RESISTANCE
1. Disconnect electrical connector on distributor and note pick-up coil terminal identification on the
distributor.
2. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between specified terminals. Replace distributor assembly if pick-up coil resistance is not within specification. Reinstall electrical connector.

PICK-UP COIL AIR GAP
1. Remove distributor cap. Using non-magnetic feeler gauge, check pick-up coil air gap between signal rotor and pick-up coil projection.
2. Replace distributor assembly if pick-up coil air gap is not within specifications.

hello, i would like to know how much you think the average price for a 1997 toyota corolla to replace the timing belt at 120k miles also is it worth changing the water pump out too at the same time. Thank you

You should replace the water pump while you are at it. You are at bit less than where both units usually fails. If you don't replace the water pump now, when the time comes to replace the pump, you have to re-replace the belt. You have to remove the belt to get to the water pump, and you should not re-use timing belt. It should cost you 4 hours of labor plus parts. Make sure you also replace the timing belt tensioner.

Alright thank you for a response. I have a good mechanic doing the job. Will the car run any different with the new water pump and timing belt? also should i wait till 119k miles or just get asap?

If you have the money, I would do the work ASAP. You won't feel different, performance-wise, from the water pump and belt. You may hear less noise from the timing tensioner, a bit.

If you want to car to run more smoothly, I would suggest doing a tune-up. You are close to your 120K mile mark. 120K miles service include, but not limited to, spark plugs (make sure that they are either NGK or Denso brand), wires, distributor cap and rotor, filters (air, fuel and PCV valve), and transmission service.

how much shuold a timing belt and water pum be average for a 97 corolla?

New water pump should be around $50 - $60. Make sure you purchase the right one for your car. 97 Corolla has two different engine 1.6L 4AFE or 1.8L 7AFE. There are two different models of water pump, one made for Aisan and the other one is for Aisin Seiki. I don't remember which one goes to which engine.

Your timing belt should run you around $20, or timing belt set with tensioner for $60.

i found a mechanic to do the whole job for 100 plus i buy the parts how do i no what type o engine i have i believe its the 1.8 but not sure. also do you recommend any brands for both parts or just any brand from a auto zone.

where is the location of the crankshaft timing?

i actually just looked up my vin number on carfax and it says i have a 1.8 l4 fi engine.

I don't think some people would like it if I recommend certain brands or bash certain store. But from personal experience, I like Cardone water pump, and Goodyear and Gates both make better belt and tensioner.

I have a 96 toyota corolla with 103000 miles. The timing belt was changed about six months ago and ever since its been squealing at start up. Lately the duration of the noise from the belt has gotten longer can you please tell the problem and how i can fix it?

Hi there,

I have had these squeal when there is oil on the belt from a leaky front seal and cam seal, worth checking if pulling cover again.

Mark (mhpautos)

how should the timing go on this car i want to know how the two camshafts go with their points and also the timing belt sproket how is it supposed to go and where should the point on that one should be aligned with. because the sproket has two holes one that says u and one that says e on wich one shoulg i put the camshaft key on

1995 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl Automatic
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Hiya,

I am getting my timing belt ( which I am assuming is the same as a CAMBELT in NZ) and some places quote me for a water pump as well as cam belt.
Do I really need to get both done ? Is it wise to get both done at the same time , or is it a way mechanics get a bit of extra work out of you even though it doesn't need fixing yet.

I can see the point if I cam going to save a few hours of labour by doing both at same time. ...

Thanks

Hi there,

The cam belt drives the water pump as well, i think he is trying to sell you a water pump. Now you don't have to replace the pump because the belt is being changed, some people do, as it is there and easy to do with the front pulled down, but if it is not leaking and not noisy, you don't have to replace it.

Mark (mhpautos)

how do i reset the timing belt on the car, already replaced belt?

Not sure by what you mean by "reset". The timing belt is mechanical, if it were installed incorrectly (one tooth off), you would have some valve noise.

The crankshaft timing mark aligned, along with the camshafts timing mark (TDC #1), you then install the belt.

The ECM can be reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute or two, but if the timing belt was installed incorrectly, it would make no difference.

You would reset the computer if you were installing a new TPS (throttle position sensor). You would do this to reset the TPS voltage at closed throttle value.

I have a question i was checking the tension on the timing belt in my 95 Toyota corolla 1.6 l and it seems sort of slack....i was wondering if you think that maybe that this looseness could be why my valve train could be making noise...and also why at times it seems to be lacking power...hoping for a response John from Canada

A loose timing belt can cause the timing to slip, both ignition and valve timing. It won't cause noise in the valvetrain, unless it's slipped enough to be causing the pistons to be slapping the valves.
A noisy valvetrain is usually caused by valves that need adjusting, or inadequate lubrication of the valvetrain. How long has it been since you changed the oil, and what weight do you specify/use?

Pull the timing cover and verify that the timing marks line up properly. Make sure the belt tension is correct (.2-.24 inches of deflection, max, with 4.4lbs of pressure applied). If not, re-tension the belt if you can. Otherwise replace the belt and tension it properly.

I recently changed the oil and i used the manufacturers specification 5w30 i started the car one day and i noticed a noise coming from the engine compartment and i don't think its the valve train but i think it might be the alternator or water pump.....the drive belts haven't been changed in a while and 50000 ks at least....it sounds at times like its bearings or something...Thanks for the previous answer...John

Uh, yeah. 50K. Those belts are screaming for a change.

If you've got a long extension, or other solid piece of metal, start the car and hold it against the valve cover with the upper end against your ear. Listen carefully for clicking, clattering or tapping sounds.
Next hold it against the alternator. Does the sound you heard get louder?
Next, move it as close to the water pump as you can get it and listen.
One of these will have a sound that duplicates what you're hearing through the air. It will identify the offending component.
5w30 is perfect.
Please come back and let us know what you find.

Its actually funny you said that about the using the long piece of metal against the ear....i was working with some mechanics and one of them said to use a stethoscope and i got one and i noticed the sound was not coming from the valve train...he also said too that it could be the drive belts....how do i do a pressure test on oil pump.. and i was wondering if it could be the crank shaft bearings...

It could be the bearings, but usually that'll be a knocking type sound.
Some part stores have tool loaner/rental programs. See if one near you has an oil pressure tester. Otherwise, you can install a $10 gauge. Or, remove the oil pressure sending unit and the coil wire, and then crank the engine over while watching the sending unit orifice for oil flow. BUT, that method won't tel you how much pressure there is. For that, you'll need a gauge.

My mechanic told me it would cost $700 to replace the timing belt, is this accurate ? because another mechanic told me it should only cost around $400.

Thank You

$400 to $600 is the price range. make sure yu replace the tensioner when you do. If the belt drives the water pump replace it also. That puts it over $800

if anyone can help me and tell me how to line up the points on the ins tallation of a timing belt i will be very thankfull