1986 Toyota Corolla Turns over but still won't start!

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs and for injection pulses.

Still new to this forum - I see no option of how to reply to an answer I was given! But the person (Razmataz) said to "check my injection pressure". I have a carberator, so would this apply in my case?
Let it be noted I do not know much about cars beyond the very basics.

Carbuerator no problem you still need to rule out the fuel pump and filter if you check the fuel pressure-further even though the the rotor is spinning the timing belt could have slipped a tooth or so throwing off the valve timing to create a no start condition.

Yes, one of my buds told me that even though the rotor spins, the belt could have slipped.
So, how do I check this?

Also, another bud said that I should hear the fuel pump engage as I turn the key. I will try this later today when I get home.

I followed the test procedures in the Haynes Manual, and the fuel pump is working. Also there is fuel pooling up in the carberator when I try to crank the car.

So, fuel is getting to the cylinders (I would assume).
Is there a way to check the timing without taking much of the car apart? Some type of quick check?

Put the engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke/TDC and look at the timing marks on the crank pulley if its line up 0/TDC and rotor pointing to no.1 cap tower.

"Put the engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke/TDC and look at the timing marks on the crank pulley if its line up 0/TDC and rotor pointing to no.1 cap tower. "

I'm not a mechanic (or good with cars). How exactly is this done? I get the basic theory of what I have to do......but don't know how to go about it. Also, I only have basic tools. Is there a detailed set of instructions for this procedure available?

Not "by the book" but since the distributor rotor and the cylinder positioning are related, I turned the engine over for a quick second or two until the rotor was at the #1 cylinder postion. Then I put a stick down each spark plug opening until I found out which piston was in the compression mode (closet to the top). Thus, timing is okay.

During the testing period after putting the plugs in, the car started and ran for about 10 seconds, then stalled. This is normal if the car hadn't been driven in a while. But I couldn't get it to start again, unless I was jumping the battety off my other car.

My conclusion? Something in the electrical system, since the car did indeed run (and sound normal) for a short period of time.