Catalytic Converter Replacement Instructions ?

Hello,

Here is a guide to help you step by step on how to replace the cat converter with instruction in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I have received a quote to replace cat coverter for $650. Is that a reasonable price?

Thanks

That does sound like a normal price, but if you go with an aftermarket type converter it would be cheaper. The only problem with that is sometimes the mechanics may have to do some extra cutting and welding to get it on right. It is best to go with what you were quoted with factory converter.

Thanks

Would the converter need to be replace if the state inspection passes for cayalytic converter and passes for oxygen sensor?
The inspection failed for MIL commanded-on with a code P0420 for Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1).
Thanks

My car has been making a bot of extra noise. A few weeks ago, my mechanic diagnosed that the front pipe (which I guess includes a small catalytic converter) needs to be replaced. Not urgent. Then the check engine light went on. Seems now the main catalytic converter needs to be replaced. He's an honest guy I've gone to for years. He quoted $2K for the front pipe and catalytic converter. Seem reasonable?

Try checking the dealer first. My friend just changed his catalytic converter without the front pipes at the dealer. Original Catalytic converter cost $800.00 plus $200 in installation. I don't know how much is the front pipes.

I just checked the dealer's price for the front pipes. $875.00

So your $2k cost is about right as long as your mechanic installs original Toyota parts.

I took my car to be smogged. It failed and I was told the the catalytic converter needed to be replaced. They put some fluid on the top to try in clean out the converter to get it to pass; but that did not work. I heard that if the converter was bad there is usually a bad egg smell, which I have not experienced this. Could there be something else wrong. When I asked about the cost of the part the mechanic stated $300 to $1200; would this be correct?

Causes Of Converter Failures

Fouling, clogging, melt-down and breakage of the ceramic substrate inside a converter are common conditions that can cause problems. Plugging is usually the end result of a melt-down, which occurs because the converter gets too hot. This happens because the engine is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. The excess fuel lights off inside the converter and sends temperatures soaring. If it gets hot enough, the ceramic substrate that carries the catalyst melts.
The unburned fuel may be getting into the exhaust because of a bad spark plug or valve, but an overly rich air/fuel mixture is another possibility. In older carbureted engines, a heavy or misadjusted carburetor float may be the underlying cause. But on newer engines with "feedback" carburetion or electronic fuel injection, the engine may not be going into "closed loop" (the normal mode where the computer regulates the air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions).
A bad oxygen sensor or coolant sensor may be giving the computer bogus information. A sluggish or dead O2 sensor will make the computer think the exhaust is running lean, so the computer will try to compensate by making the fuel mixture rich. A coolant sensor that always indicates a cold engine will also keep the system in open loop, which means a steady diet of excess fuel. But it might not be the sensor’s fault. A thermostat that’s stuck open or is too cold for the application can prevent the engine from reaching its normal operating temperature. So if your converter has failed and needs to be replaced, the engine should be diagnosed for any underlying problems before the new converter is installed.
Another cause of converter clogging and contamination is excessive oil consumption. Worn valve guides or seals can allow oil to be sucked into the engine’s combustion chambers. The same goes for worn or damaged rings or cylinders. Oil can form a great deal of carbon, and metals present in the oil can contaminate the catalyst. A compression check or leak-down test will tell you if the rings are leaking, while a fluttering vacuum gauge needle will help you identify worn valve guides

How many catalytic converters does my car have. How do you test them to see if they need replacement?

Hello,

Here is a guide to help you test the catalytic converter on your car. There are two converters one is bolted the exhaust manifold and the other is under the car about midway.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

Thank you I love this site!

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Cheers

.

I have a 2000 Camry I4(99K mi,Made in Japan)which was running absolutely fine , until one day the catalytic converter (flex pipe) was broken because of rust. I got it replaced at a local shop they charged 550. The car ran fine for a week.I used to smell like something was burning and eventually the check engine light came on. I went back to them and they told me that the pipe they installed might have been bad and removed and replaced it with a new one.After one week the CEL came on again with a low catalytic conversion error code(same error as last time).I went back to them and they checked it and told me everything is fine and it is just that "stupid light is on". I argued with them and then they tell me that it is a CA emissions Camry and it has one more cat converter (front cat) that needs replacement and gave me a $400 estimate.My question here is does my car really have a front converter other than the one that is at the bottom which they replaced or are these guys just ripping me off. The car drives fine right now with no difference in the fuel consumption.I went to the dealer they told me the code was related to the cat conversion and suggested me to go back to the shop who installed it.The local shop suggests me to install the front cat for the light to go off.

1) Should I replace the front cat by paying 400?
2) Can I drive with the light on for another two to three months and then replace it.Does it harm my car in any way if i replace it after 3 months.

Please help me. Your suggestion is very valuable to me.

Thanks,
Sandeep.

yes it has 2 cats.

Thanks a lot lostinmars for the reply :D . Can i just drive the car with the front cat not working properly. Will it damage anything else in the car because of this.

i guess you "could" drive it but i would replace them.

I have a 2000 Camry and the CEL came on recently.
I took the car to Toyota dealer and was told this car has California Emissions and its two converters need to be replaced. The Toyota service center gave me the following estimates:

1. Front converter pipe - $1028
2. Manifold converter - 320

Does anybody know of any alternative auto-part center/manufacturer that sells the above two parts or any one of them?

Thanks, Eugene

I have 2000 Toyota Camry and 1998 Nissan Altima. I live in Michigan and these cars are bought new in Michigan. I am moving to California very soon.

My question is, Do i have to install any special catalytic converter on these cars to meet California emission standards?

So far the cars don't have any problem with smell or anything, since i don't find proper subject to match my question i used "smell" as subject.

Thanks in advance
Mallinarc.

Hi there, i feel that you should not have to worry about anything as long as the cat is working and you have no emission issues.

Mark (mhpautos)

Thanks

OBD Code P0420 Help!?
Hey everyone, i went to AutoZone to use their code reader and i got code P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). Car is running fine. Now here's where it gets tricky the check engine light that prompted me to get the code in the first place turned on after i started using a Griffin Itrip/charger. In addition to the Check Engine Light, my power locks will also stop functioning after i remove my key from the engine, i.e. I have to manually lock my car every time i go somewhere. Mind you all this began once i started using the itrip. Do you think the p0420 might be tied to it? or is it all a coincidence?

The PO420 merely means your Catalytic Converter is not chemically doing what it's supposed to. This does not effect engine performance in any way unless the Converter is plugged up too. Here is a guide to help walk you through the replacement steps with instruction in the diagrams below to show you how on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Just to add to your overall question, using that itrip probably did not cause this. The best way to tell if these things cause issues is to just unhook them and if the vehicle returns to normal then it is related. However, I highly doubt it.

Let me know if you have more questions. Thanks

Good morning,

You can verify the Catalytic Converter being bad by monitoring the O2 sensor reading at the cat or the downstream.

Watch the voltage readings as they should be stable at about .476 to .5 volts. If the voltage goes up and down more than .2 volts, the cat internals are worn out and needs to be replaced.

Roy

1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl 161000 miles

Hello. I was hoping to locate the front catalytic converter on my car. I have located the rear one on the exhaust pipe but where is the front catalytic located exactly. I thought it should be between the exhaust manifold and rear catalytic converter but all I see are some pipes (including a flex pipe). Right below the exhaust manifold there appears to be a covering with a pipe underneath, is this where the converter is located? It does not appear to be a elbow shaped pipe looking thing like the replacement parts show as a front catalytic converter. Thank you in advance.

you found it .

Thank you so much for your quick reply. It appears I
will need an impact wrench to get the old converter
off the manifold. Clould you maybe suggest another
method for removal as I cannot see a way to get
the impact wrench to some of the rear bolts. Is
there some sort of spray that can be used to loosen
the bolts? Do the new bolts need to be tightened
to a specific torque?

Anyways just a couple more quick questions please.

Assuming I can remove the old converter, and
beyond the getting the new converter bolted in -

Are there any other adjustments or changes I need
to make elsewhere?

The sensor that is directly in the converter comes
out with a regular wrench right?

I am a novice at car repairs and greatly appreciate
your assistance. Thanks again!

the sensor that is in the pipe is the forward o2 sensor. you can take it out with a wrench. if you can't remove or access the bolts you might have to remove the entire manifold. most of the time, you can get to them from underneath. as far as a penetrant, PB Blaster is a good product. There are numerous penetrants depending on the parts store. wd 40 works slowly and doesn't really do what you want. Why do you want to change the cat anyway. you can tell if its restricted fairly easily by removing the sensor. If there's backpressure causing the car to be sluggish, this will relieve it. it will be noisy but will tell you if thats your problem. just remember to stick the o2 back in. what are the codes in the computer telling you? if the cat is bad, it really tells you there is another problem. most of the time, its from overfueling or oil consumption that ruins the cat. even the government says the cat has to work for 50000 miles. let me know. thanks and good luck

Dear Bob, Ken, and 2carpros team, My check engine light just recently turned on. A new catalytic converter was recently installed on to my camry, but the oxygen sensors were not changed first. I took it to the mechanic and the diagnostic code came back as catalytic converter. What do you think may be wrong with it? P.S.- Now every time I shut off the car after driving a few miles there is a loud ticking noise coming from underneath the vehicle and there is a lot of heat coming from under there. I thank you all in advance for telling me what may be causing these things! I made a 5 Dollar donation today and i'm going to continue to donate. This site is GREAT!!!!!!!!

The oxygen sensors might not be switching properly and causing the converter to lit up the unburned fuel creating all that heat-

Causes Of Converter Failures

Fouling, clogging, melt-down and breakage of the ceramic substrate inside a converter are common conditions that can cause problems. Plugging is usually the end result of a melt-down, which occurs because the converter gets too hot. This happens because the engine is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. The excess fuel lights off inside the converter and sends temperatures soaring. If it gets hot enough, the ceramic substrate that carries the catalyst melts.

The unburned fuel may be getting into the exhaust because of a bad spark plug or valve, but an overly rich air/fuel mixture is another possibility. In older carbureted engines, a heavy or misadjusted carburetor float may be the underlying cause. But on newer engines with "feedback" carburetion or electronic fuel injection, the engine may not be going into "closed loop" (the normal mode where the computer regulates the air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions).

A bad oxygen sensor or coolant sensor may be giving the computer bogus information. A sluggish or dead O2 sensor will make the computer think the exhaust is running lean, so the computer will try to compensate by making the fuel mixture rich. A coolant sensor that always indicates a cold engine will also keep the system in open loop, which means a steady diet of excess fuel. But it might not be the sensor’s fault. A thermostat that’s stuck open or is too cold for the application can prevent the engine from reaching its normal operating temperature. So if your converter has failed and needs to be replaced, the engine should be diagnosed for any underlying problems before the new converter is installed.

Another cause of converter clogging and contamination is excessive oil consumption. Worn valve guides or seals can allow oil to be sucked into the engine’s combustion chambers. The same goes for worn or damaged rings or cylinders. Oil can form a great deal of carbon, and metals present in the oil can contaminate the catalyst. A compression check or leak-down test will tell you if the rings are leaking, while a fluttering vacuum gauge needle will help you identify worn valve guides.

Just had the flex pipe cat. converter replaced. The loud noise went away, but the car stalled the next day while at a red light and now will not start. Turns over at ignition, but will not crank. Got fuel, battery old but not dead. Had a problem of low idle from time to time in the past, where the car would stall unless I pressed the gas after ignition for 10 seconds or so. This happened maybe 1 out of 50 starts.

Replaced plugs not too long ago, but not the filter, dist. cap etc. Could this be because of a bad install on the cat. converter or something related to the fuel delivery more likely?

Very possible the CAT is clogged, they are very sensitive to impacts, that is, if it was dropped or hit it could break the material inside.

Return to installer and have it removed and checked for broken material.

If clogged and backpressure is too high car will not start, or if it does it can damage valves.

Hi, I just spent $1,000 having various repairs done to my car but somehow, as soon as I got it out of the shop, the catalytic converter went and it had to go back into the shop (a different one) for a new (generic) catalytic converter. During this last process they told me I needed a new manifold (they showed me whichever one is on the bottom of the car, apparently it has two) and said the driving it would destroy the catalytic converter just installed. My question is, is $1,100 a reasonable price installation of a new manifold and should I just abandon the car at this point? Thanks, W Shore

[quote:ba2fc41f00="wpshore"]Shakes or Wobbles problem
1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 250000 miles

Hi, I just spent $1,000 having various repairs done to my car but somehow, as soon as I got it out of the shop, the catalytic converter went and it had to go back into the shop (a different one) for a new (generic) catalytic converter. During this last process they told me I needed a new manifold (they showed me whichever one is on the bottom of the car, apparently it has two) and said the driving it would destroy the catalytic converter just installed. My question is, is $1,100 a reasonable price installation of a new manifold and should I just abandon the car at this point? Thanks, W Shore[/quote:ba2fc41f00]

Hi W. Shore,

Ok, I believe you are talking about the Exhaust Manifold. And the only reason I can think off for it needing to be fixed or replaced would be do to it being cracked. And $1,100 is way to much to replace it. The Exhaust Manifold shouldn't cost but about $120 and labor depending on the rare in your area shouldn't be more than a couple hundred.

Now, if it is the Intake Manifold then yes $1,100 is a fair price. But again the only reason to replace it would be because it is cracked.

So, I would contact the garage and make sure of which they are speaking of. Then I would call around and get a few other estimates.


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