Car idles high when turned on

Have you fixed this problem yet? Does the car also turn off?

This video shows whats wrong and how to fix it

https://youtu.be/XMB16Gg-qNg

No i have not. The car also does not turn off.

I have a 1998 Toyota Camry 252,000 miles. When I crank the car it hesitates to start, when parked it revs up to 4 or 5 RPM by itself, then has a very slow, hesitate, sluggish take off. If I come to a complete stop it shuts off I practical have to drive with both feet to keep it started and be ready to go when light changes. If I'll driving on a straight stretch it drives fine, but once I start to slow down or come to complete stop it shuts off. I've had the catalytic converter replaced & ignition throttle. Never was my problem. It also makes a loud noise that sounds like its coming from the motor, but no ones seems to know for sure. Tired of putting out money in useless places to get this vehicle repaired. Do you have any suggestions.

Do you have a check engine light and when was the last tune-up.

Could be the coolant temperature sensor, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, PCV and EGR valves.

My check engine light is not on and I had a basic tune up about 2 mos. ago. Someone suggested I may need a thorough tune up to change coil packs, could this be the problem and is it very expensive.

97 Toyota Camry LE 4cyl 2.2L........first of all I am the 2nd owner of the vehicle. 1st owner took excellent care of the vehicle as do I.. I have owned over year and half and have only had 1 problem ( split fuel fixture on top of fuel pump)... the car has been driving excellent til 3 days ago. DAY1- ran out of gas, and tried driving it up a hill to get to gas station on other side. no probs rest of day... DAY2- drove wife to work at 6:45 am and did some light driving throughout that day. then around 4pm i started the car and went to store when it mad weird sputter as i started it. I drove it 2 blocks to the store and it was acting like it was low on gas again so i put in $10 gasoline. When i drove it home it sputtered and loped so I immediately parked it. When i started it to try and hear any problems the idle would go up and down from 1000 to 2000 on the Tach. I also noticed a cracked air intake hose and did some research online. DAY3- i ran OBD to find only 1 code ( P0303) which is 3rd cylinder misfire.. So i went to store and bought & installed brand new Air Intake hose, ThrottlePositioningSensor, Vacuum Hoses, EGR hose, and EGR valve ( EGR is the only thing i haven't installed), and 4 new Spark plugs.....Everything but the EGR valve has been installed. When I start the car now it idles around 1.5-2 and if I give any gas, there's little hesitation and if i do it fast enough sometimes ill hear a pop or hiccup from engine. Not as much sputtering... but if i try and drive it, there's constant sputtering and hesitation... Plz i HAVE to get the car running asap, its how me, my wife get to work and my son get to school.. I tried to be as accurate and detailed as to what probs I hear/see and what ive done to fix it. Please anyone

Has the same trouble code come back? Since you were so low on gas, there is a change the fuel filter may be plugged. Also, many times I have seen the fuel pump go bad after running out of gas. Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

Finally, the looping or idle issue is usually caused by a bad Idle Air Control valve (IAC). Have you checked that? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

have 3 codes P0303- misfire 3rd cylinder.....P0120- TPS, but I replaced it and I tested the harness that connects to TPS with a voltmeter and it read 5V, just like the haynes manual said.... and the 3rd code is a pending P0303, which I don't know what that means because I replaced the spark plugs..... and about 10 months ago I had a bad (nipple) on the top of my fuel pump, so I replaced the fuel pump. How do I check the fuel pump pressure? and Ive thought about the IAC, but because its so expensive Id like to narrow it down to that before I go and but it and "hope" it works.... as of now, i have replaced the air intake hose,vacuum hoses,TPS, spark plugs, and I have tested the EGR, MAP, and TPS and they all tested perfect. I also pulled the ECT while the car was running and it got worse.. Plz, anymore suggestions?

also is there a way to check the (IAC) without replacing it?

The pending 303 just indicates the code has been there. The problem is still related to the same cylinder. As far as the IAC, if you remove it and have someone cycle the key on and off, you should see the pintel move.

Since the code is still the same, you have replaced many parts including plugs, I question the following:

Plug wires
coil
fuel injector
cylinder 3 compression

I finally got the small 1" piece of boot that was stuck on top of cylinder 1 spark plug. so I changed cylinder 1 spark plug and replaced the EGR modulator. Also noticed spark in the wires last night so I replaced the spark plug wires too. after this the car finally is back to semi-normal.. There is no more loping or sputtering but the idle was still pretty high, around 2000rpm. I drove it down the block and back and it seemed to go away, however when the car is in Neutral the car idles little higher, around 1300rpm. And also if I turn the a/c on, and the car is in Neutral it will idle higher too, around 1300-1500rpm.... any suggestions on the high idle? and by the way, I really appreciate the help and suggestions, you guys have been a tremendous help and my wife and I cant thank you enough.

my 97 camry idles really high,about 2,000 RPM. no check engine light on.i took it into a shop,they ran a diagnostic on it, nothing turned up. but they found that the spark plugs were in desperate need of being replaced, so he replaced them. the car ran fine for about 2 weeks. now the same problem happens again. also when i put it in park, it idles really high, so when turning the car off at high idle it runs a little then shuts off. so when trying to start it back up again, it wont right away, once it does, the car idles high,it sputters,then when i put it in gear, it shuts off, and it happens constantly. i went and bought fuel injector cleaner as well as gas treatment fluid.this was two days ago, let car run for 20 minutes, no effect. what do i do? i would appreciate your input. thanks.

Too fast an idle speed. If an engine without computerized idle speed control is idling too fast and refuses to come down to a normal idle speed despite your best efforts to back off the carburetor idle speed screw or air bypass adjustment screw (fuel injection), air is getting past the throttle somewhere. Common leak paths include the carburetor and throttle body gaskets, carburetor insulator spacers, intake manifold gaskets, and of course, any of the engine's vacuum fittings, hoses and accessories. It is even possible that leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals. Another overlooked item can be a worn throttle shaft and a defective idle speed speed control motor/valve stuck in the extended (high idle speed) position/throttle position sensor. Also the throttle plate could be binding in its bore and kinked accelerator cable, coolant temperature sensor might not be operating properly misleading the computer that the engine is still cold and computer throwing fuel at it raising the idle speed.

Hi:
I'm glad to help. If you were seeing sparks from the plug wires, they were bad. As far as the idle, double check for vacuum leaks and again the idle air control valve.

hi there, thanks for the input. let me tell you what i have done so far. i replaced the TPS(throttle position sensor) still high idle. as well as replacing the PCV Valve, same thing still going on. i'm kind of starting to narrow it down a little, so thats good! but, i did find that what i think to believe might be doing it is the idle speed control motor/valve. the tip does not interact with the throttle, i beleive? the round thing connected to the gas pedal cable. they do not touch,it only touches when the car is off. also i noticed that after i replaced the TPS and PCV valve, it smells pretty foul, like a rotten egg mixed with gas fumes, what can that be? i'd appreciate more input, i just wanna get the small things squared away before i move on to the big things. thank you guys.

Check the TPS closed and WOT voltages

its a 2L camry when the car starts up it idle, but when u rev it up it take long to rev up or the engine stalls. We replaced the spark wires, spark plugs and new feul pump.

Do you have a check engine light nad last tune -up?

Clean the idle air control valve and Inspect and test the TPS and MAF sensors-to include the exhaust system for restriction, also refer to this link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-hesitates

I have a 96 model camry that I bought when it had 96K miles on it. Now it has 149K. Sad but true, I have never serviced it. After four years of just pouring gas and timely oil change, my oldie has now started giving problems.

It tends to stall at signal. To stop it from not doing I have to put extra pressure on the gas pedal. When I park it and change the gear to "P" , engine suddenly revs upto 2500 rpm. I cant see it crying so loud so I turn i off.

Well, I see that this website has lot of experts. Do you think I should go for a repair or simply see the slow death. If I go for repair, what should I be telling to the mechanic because I dont want a grocery list of items. I know it is a old vehicle and might be having 1000 of old parts in it. I want to fix only the part that will fix this problem. Everything else works great in the vehicle.

I have this exact problem with my Camry. And I have looked on this forum and found 3 others with same post. But no solid solution.

Best response I have found is it may be the distributor coil.

I replaced mine and it didn't seem to fix the problem. However, I bought a used one and didn't replace the small o-ring which is required per repair instructions. I may have replaced my problem with another problem. I don't want to go through this again if this isn't the cause of the issue.

Hopefully an answer will arise on these threads soon.

I have changed the temperature sensor and for now it looks better. Need to see if it really resolved the problem.

Hello Mukesh,
Did replacing the temp. sensor solved the engine problem? My camry(almost same spec) is also having the same exact problem and now I don't know whether should I go for another car or repair my camry and see..

[quote:5d9348834d="mukeshranjan"]Engine Performance problem
1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 149000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
I have a 96 model camry that I bought when it had 96K miles on it. Now it has 149K. Sad but true, I have never serviced it. After four years of just pouring gas and timely oil change, my oldie has now started giving problems.

It tends to stall at signal. To stop it from not doing I have to put extra pressure on the gas pedal. When I park it and change the gear to "P" , engine suddenly revs upto 2500 rpm. I cant see it crying so loud so I turn i off.

Well, I see that this website has lot of experts. Do you think I should go for a repair or simply see the slow death. If I go for repair, what should I be telling to the mechanic because I dont want a grocery list of items. I know it is a old vehicle and might be having 1000 of old parts in it. I want to fix only the part that will fix this problem. Everything else works great in the vehicle.[/quote:5d9348834d]

Hi All,

I have the same problem with a 98 cam. Has anyone found a solution for this problem???

i have a 1996 toyota camry my car was running fine and all of a sudden my car started to jerk a little and i kept driving it thinking it was bad gas but about a 1 week later my speed ometer was not working but my rps are and gas and tempature well about a week later my car cranks fine and drives still but when it warms up after driving it starts to jerk and it acts like it is neutral and just revs up going down the road when i hit the gas. But if i let go and hit it a couple of times it jerks back into a gear and gos for about 10 sec and does it over again i have brought it to transmission shops and they dont know what it is they just tell me they want to rebuild the transsmision please help me....

Hi there,

Get the alternator check as i am sure that it is the trigger source for the fuel pump circuit, earlier Camry's are. also have the fuel pressure tested first, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

i moved from california to georgia.

no, thats why they have mass air flow sensors and map sensors to compensate for the change.

it could be a vacuum leak or a failed idle air control motor. you need someone to verify it and give you a bid.

Roy