Oxygen Sensor

You did bank two the code is for bank one is in exhaust between the manifold and the bulkhead to pass compart.

This guide can help


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-oxygen-sensor

Hi, this is my first post here. Here goes my story: I got a 97 Camry LE some time ago. I've been driving it for a while. The mileage is about 100k. About 2 months ago, the dreaded "check engine light" goes on. Being a complete newb about cars, I did some research and decided to get a free code reading from Autozone. then I went to a mechanics and they ended up charging me $40 for figuring out what is wrong with the car: 1. oxygen sensor is bad (or air/fuel sensor) 2. EGR solenoid is bad basically i need to replace these parts. the quote i got from the mechanics is, parts: 1. around 200 2. around 100 labor: about 200 total so I'll pay about $500 being a poor college student ($500 is approximately the salary I get per semester for my part time job at my university!) I decided to do some more research. from this website http://replacement.car-stuff.com/parts/carstuff/quote.jsp?year=1997&product=C5015-131191&application=000590057&part=Air%20Fuel%20Ratio%20Sensor&category=C&returnurl=null&dp=true&showdc=true#top it seems that the O2 sensor is indeed $200 however, some friend told me that O2 sensor is usually around $60... I decided to replace the oxygen sensor by myself. (I've learnt how to replace spark plugs as a total newb) As for the EGR valve... I am told that I would need to lift the car up to replace it. Being a total newb, I'll leave this part for last after I am done with oxygen sensor. my personal philosophy: the decision of attempting to fix the car on my own is partly because of money and partly because of my personal philosophy. I believe in doing things on my own and learning from the experience. I would gladly spend $500 bucks and time trying to fix the car myself as long as I learn.

I apologize for any newbish questions or spelling errors. Thank you for reading my long post. Any comment is appreciated.

The codes you have does not mean this two parts are faulty. any of them could cause the computer to think the other one is faulty.First thing is to test which part is working and which is not working before replacing anything and this is why you need a qualified mechanic.as far as doing things by yourself this might cost you more money incase you strip the manifold.

Thank you for the reply.

I paid the mechanic $40 to check what the problem is and he told me the oxygen sensor and the EGR solenoid need replacing...

a few things...

- if by egr solenoid he means the vsv (vacuum switching valve) valve for the egr system, then yes that part is changed from under the car. its bolted to the rear of the engine block and if you don't have access to a lift, good luck.

- denso is the factory supplier for toyota oxygen/air fuel ratio sensors. but that doesn't always mean that the part available aftermarket from denso is built to the same specs as the oem part.

- i personally use nothing but oem sensors for any car i'm working on and i can't remember the last time i had to do a warranty repair.

- make sure you find out of you car is california spec. if so it will have a air fuel ratio sensor instead of an oxyen sensor. they look very similiar but they are not interchangable. they have different connectors, so if you have to splice and change connectors you have the wrong part.

- ALSO AND I PUT THIS IN CAPS FOR A REASON. I NEVER IN MY WILDEST IMAGINATION, AS A SHOP OWNER AND A TECH, WOULD EVER THINK ABOUT INSTALLING AN UNIVERSAL OXYGEN SENSOR!!!

i know you didn't ask about them i just wanted to voice my opinion.

Havin problem removing sensor by catalic convertor, hangs up inside cavity, thanks

You may have to heat it up

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need manual CHECK IT @
https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm

i changed the o2 sensor had the engine light turned off i drove 4 awhile it came back on and said the same thing that the sensor was bad what else can it be and will it hurt the engine to drive it like this

Did you use OEM parts? You got 3 possible problems-The sensor/wiring and the computer itself.

check fuses and wires

check grounds
make sure you have a good o2 and not a defective one
what u have 4 a codes

I need to replace my O2 sensor. I was told that I need a calfornia emissions O2, but I dont know if the shops trying 2 get over on me. I dont know where the car was made. I know it was in PA, but dont know if it was made there. I live in AL. I dont have much $. Can yall help me please?

[quote:3fa5c664ff="donmagnolia"]Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles

I need to replace my O2 sensor. I was told that I need a calfornia emissions O2, but I dont know if the shops trying 2 get over on me. I dont know where the car was made. I know it was in PA, but dont know if it was made there. I live in AL. I dont have much $. Can yall help me please?[/quote:3fa5c664ff]

I don't think you don't need any CA O2 Censors unless you are driving in the state of CA. Just shop around for the cheapest O2 Sensors and again, if it is a CEL problem, even after replacing the O2 Censor, your problem may not go away. you could end up replacing the CAT and still have it..thsi CEL is an SOB!!

I have a 1997 Toyota CamryLE 4cyl. At different times the car smell like sulfer or rotten eggs, plus it looses power. I just had my O2 sensors replaced. What else could the problem be?

The smell comes from the catalytic converter. Too much unburned raw fuel entered it at some point and caused it to overheat.

1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 146 k miles

I need to replace the oxygen sensors in my Camry. Toyota wants over $400 for the parts alone. So we are talking over 6hundred if I go the official route and have them do the work. Poverty and sanity lead me to the conclusion that I should try and do it myself and get non-Toyota parts.

I have ordered two different sets of Oxygen sensors on the net. The price was right, but even though the parts were listed as appropriate for my car, they have not fit. I even went so far as to get a real mechanic to try to install them. No luck. When I tried to return the "wrong" parts today, the"Autoparts Warehouse.com" tech said "Oh, yeah, A '96 Camry with a 2.2 can only use the real Toyota parts." I find this too bizarre for words. Please tell me that that person, at best, was being a crook and/or covering his butt because he didn't want to take them back. Tell me I can use the secondary market parts, please, and give a place to order them.

Thanks,
Robin

Go to your local parts store and ask them for Bosch 12109 for the front

and Bosch 12105 for the rear.

You don't have to have to use Toyota parts for your vehicle, aftermarket units works just as fine. The guy just just didn't want to take them back. Or you can try this website. rockauto.com

I put my 95 Camry in the shop to determine the cause of poor gas mileage. Usually I will get 34 mpg on the road and lately it has dropped to 24 mpg. The diagnosis was that the computer was calling for a rich fuel mixture at a much lower rpm that it should.
The fix was to replace the catalyitic coverters and oxygen sensors. I had a tune up performed also
(plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, rotor, fuel filter).
It still only gets 24 mpg. Almost $1000.00 later -
What next?

Hi Cecil Green,

Possible causes of rich mixtures are faulty/out of adjustment
1. Map sensor.
2. Throttle position sensor
3. O2 sensor
4. Improper ignition timing.
5. Fuel pressure regulator
6. Fuel injectors.
7. Clogged air filter.
8. Spark plugs.

My wife's car (1992 Toyota Camry v6 sedan - Japan version) has been idling very rough and even runs rough - most noticably below freeway speeds. The dealer replaced 6 spark plugs, cables and rotary cap but it's still not running smooth. They then said that it looks like the fuel injectors and both o2 sensors are "saturated" and the computer is thrashing the engine back and forth between heavy and lean mixtures. They want $2500 for these repairs. We're thinking about dontating the car and getting something new but I'm handy (electrical engineer) and don't mind giving this a shot myself with a Chilton's book at my side. Question is - does their diagnosis sound correct and if so, exactly what parts would I need to purchase? I've seen a 6 injector replacement set online but do i need to get o rings and other injector related things as well?

Thanks in advanced!

John

if your replacing the injectors yes you need new orings im not sure in your situation but the injectors also sit on a donut/washer looking spacer which you can reuse also you will want to replace the gasket.... in your chiltons you can find out how tocheck the pcv valve also just check under the hood for broken/cut vacuum lines injectors are expensive but rarely need replacing if that dosent work i would replace the o2 sensor,..... come back and let us know good luck :)

Thanks syncrait for the extra info! I'm getting the Chilton's tonight so I should be able to see what you're talking about and hopefully sound more intellegent in my questions or updates as a result. When you say that I might also want to replace the gasket, are you talking about gaskets that seal the injectors or the head gasket? (again, sorry for the possibly 'dumb' questions, hope to have a better understanding when I can see a schematic)

Also, since injectors rarely fail, would you recommend replacing the O2 sensors first and seeing how it runs before tackling the injectors?

For what it's worth, my wife has stated that she will not drive her car again even if I manage to fix it by some miracle. Fine I said, I will and you can have my old car! ;) (I think she just wants that new SUV...)

Thanks again,

John

now she has an excuse to get one too HEH. But yes i am talking about replacing the gasket where the injectors are mounted, that is if you decide to do it.. And yes i would reccommend replacing both o2 sensors before the injectors as they are apt to fail more and they will produce a very rough idle..... but to reassure yourself....remove all the spark plugs and keep them in order and make sure they all have a uniform color and none are any different color than the rest thus assuring each cylinder is firing correctly and it is most likely 1 o2 sensor than 6 injectors going bad..... i would also run the car a few minutes before removing the sensors because since metal expands when hot it will make them easier to remove as your car has 2; one before the cat converter and one after; i would reccomend replacing both at the same time....good luck keep us posted :)

My expertise is more with Hondas so take this with that in mind but injectors rarely go out. It is almost always the injector relay in a Honda. I would replace that before I would go after new injectors. Also I would expect the O2 sensors to trip a check engine light if they are bad.

Good Luck

Maybe she's given you the hint for the SUV. I don't see any codes being mentioned. It all has to do with rough Idle.

Injectors or its o-ring and HO2 can be a possibilty. However there's a lot more that can cause that symptom. Let's try investigating the EGR/IACV/TPS.

Lets get back to basics of diagnostics of electronic engine controls and basic to basic.

A malfunctioning charge system and a bad ground can do some weird things within the engine management system.