starts then stalls

Have you tried to remove and clean idle air control valve
95 % its getting stuck

This guide will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

[quote:1ba7f040c5="DonovanK"]For the last 8 weeks I have had a starting issue with my car. I put the key in, I turn it to start, she starts....then dies. All lights come on the dash and no engine...I would turn the key again...and she would start just fine and no driveablity issues. this normally only happened in the mornings. I decided to have the fule filter replaced, but that didn't seem to solve the issue. Over the last 8 weeks it's gotten progressively worse. I have taken her in and they scanned the computer and got nothing. EGR valve is working fine. I have done a Lucus treatment, that hasn't changed anything. Now it takes three or more times to start her up EVERY time I go to start her. And sometimes if I don't let her warm up to the halfway mark on the temp gage, when I drive her she will do the whole turn off thing or try to. Normally if I pump the gass she works fine. Took her into a shop, they say fuel pump and want bucks for it. Called a few other places...they aren't convinced.

Car: 1990 Camry, 4 cylinder, 2.0 EFI engine.
New Parts (replaced in the last year):
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Muffler
Fuel Filter
EGR moduel[/quote:1ba7f040c5]

the cold start injector is faulty, it hooks right into the intake manifold, gives extra fuel on cold starts

Was traveling about 45 mph, up a 20 % grade and engine died and only sputterd briefly after waiting for the engine to cool down and on a level terrain re-start.

Towed back home and engine restarted and ran smoothly for few minutes until I shut down.

12 hrs latertried to restart- engine would turn over but no signs of combustion.

Background Info: @ 230,000 engine frequently stalled at intersections and electronically contolled overdrive was sporadic - replaced IAC, cleaned EGR, replaced TPS w/multimeter and replaced a speed control sensor on the tranny.

Finally in April 09 the car has performed like it was brand new!!!!

Now in June it died driving up this hill.

Thoughts - fuel system or electrical?

Do below to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Thanks Rasmataz for your kind assistance!

Indeed I had no spark and traced voltage and it stopped at distributor output.

Replaced the distributor and the car started right up worked like a champ and was treated to a very nice spunky 1 hr test run.

Tried to use the car the very next morning and again it would not start except for a sputter here and there.

Tried an OBD 1 and could not retrive any codes!

PS For a good measure I replaced the igniter, fuel pump and filter.

Perlexed

Tried an OBD 1 and could not retrive any codes! Jumper the Te-1 to E-1 terminal in the check connector read the flashes.

Are you still getting spark if not -read the following

The computer uses the Ne and G signals from the distributor-the comp has to get the Igt signal in order for it to tell the ignitor to fire the coil at which time an Igf signal goes back to the computer indicating combustion has occured and repeat this process. Inspect the wirng/connectors all the way to computer if okay could be coming from the computer itself.

Again thanks for the diagnostic tips!

Hammerjj

My 1990 Camry starts(sometimes it takes a few cranks) then after a few seconds it will die. Like it has run out of gas. Sometimes i can get it to stay running. It doesn't idle well when it does and if i push on the gas pedal it doesn't change anything like it isn't pushing more fuel just stays the same then it will eventually die. It has a new fuel pump the old one was all gummed up. Has a new fuel pump relay. Old one didn't engage fuel pump when cranking engine. Could it be the fuel pressure regulator? What can i test?

Rasmatz

Again thanks

If I end up getting a used ECM is there a need to re-program the computer? If so at a dealer?

Or disconnect power, install, reconnect and then energize the system for starting?

i also replaced the fuel filter.

Just remove the EFI fuse for 10secs

could it be the cold start injector?

[quote:3172291c8c="rasmataz"]Just remove the EFI fuse for 10secs[/quote:3172291c8c]

Now a really dumb question, I can't locate the ECM. Haynes manual says behind the glove box or near center console.

Behind glove box I see only I think 4-way flasher and duct work for air delivery.

In the center console region, more duct work for heating and air delivery.

Is this thing staring me in the face? Size wise I'm looking for something the size of a desk top computer hard drive, correct?

I took the spark plugs out to see if they were getting fuel9wet) and out the six two of the spark plugs were dry. The spark plug in cylinder 1 was dry and cylinder 4 spark plug was dry. So I'm assuming either the injectors are clogged or have failed. Is the a way i can test them? Can i test the voltage that is going to the injector pigtails?

[quote:ab1ef317dc="rasmataz"]Just remove the EFI fuse for 10secs[/quote:ab1ef317dc]

Now a really dumb question, I can't locate the ECM. Haynes manual says behind the glove box or near center console.

Behind glove box I see only I think 4-way flasher and duct work for air delivery.

In the center console region, more duct work for heating and air delivery.

Is this thing staring me in the face? Size wise I'm looking for something the size of a desk top computer hard drive, correct?

basics first.

check for compression to verify timing is correct.

fuel pressure is critical whether you have a new fuel pump or not.

spark is last. it has to be verifed.

one of these is missing causing your issue.

Roy

the car starts fine but will die after a few seconds. i have to wait a couple of hours to start the car then i can drive it and it runs fine. when i shut it off and try to restart it it wont stay running,then i have to wait another couple of hours to drive it again.

HI there,

You will have to have a scan done to check for any set fault codes, and when it wont start you will have to check for spark, fuel pressure and injection pulse, as it will normally be one of these that has failed.

mark (mhpautos)

The computer/ ECU is located under the center of instrument panel behind console

Checked compression it's fine. I checked timing it's fine. Im assuming it's fuel because 2 of my spark plugs were dry and when it starts u can not keep it running by pushing the gas pedal. Also when it starts if u put ur foot on gas it will die.

Rasmatz

Thankd for all your help. Wish I could afford a new vehicle but. Pulled up the carpet around the console and found the ECM on a small platform bolted to the tunnel. Replaced same with a used ECM and now no start. Going to pull a plug this evening to verify that I have a spark.

Perhaps the ECM is shot but less crank and camshaft position sensors most everything is new less wiring harness.

Am I overlooking something simple?

JJ

could be a bad converter as well. it could be totally clogged causing this issue

Roy

Why am I not getting fuel to cylinders 1 and 4?

My car hasn't been driven in nearly a month and when i tried to crank it yesterday the battery was dead so i had to jump it off i didn't drive it much to allow the battery to charge and this morning when i had to jump it off again. It crunk no problem, i drove it about 2 miles up the road to a gas station and i left the car running while i went in to prevent the battery from going dead when i came back and got in it and put it in reverse, it went dead. It crunk back up but went dead again when i put it in gear. Then after that it would just turn over but not crank. i left the car there while i went to work and when i came back i jumped it off and it crunk, but it died again when i put it in reverse. then it would only turn over but wouldn't start up A guy who was leaving the store said it sounded like it was something about the starter, i cant remeber exactly what he said but it wasnt the starter itself. any idea what the problem is?

starter would not make it stall.

first, get the battery and alternator tested. they are the first in your series of checks.

Roy

Alternator was replaced about 2 months ago. And the battery is less than a year old as well, any other idea of what it mite be? The guy who said it was something to do with the starter was a mechanic who was getting off work, he said it sounded like something to do with the starter wasnt firing. he said it was about 50 to fix. I just cant remember exactly what he said it was.

still need to have the battery and alt tested no matter how old it is.

does the starter turn over the motor or click

Roy

I hooked some jumper cables to the battery when i tried to start it. the first time it started, but after it went dead when i put in in gear, i tried starting it again but it would only turn over and not start. then it would only click after i tried starting it for a while.

ok, start with basic checks. fuel pressure, compression and spark.

Roy

Sometimes when driving over a bump or railroad track the light will substain momentarily, but then stays on continuously while driving and also parked with ignition off all night.

sounds like a door switch/latch problem.

The dead battery has resulted in the engine computer losings its memory and this is affecting the idle control causing the stalling.

Repeated cranking with a half-charged battery can cause the starter to fail to work. I would sugggest getting the battery fully charged, which requires quite some charging time if it is the non-maintenance type and has been drained.

The computer needs to relearn after power is restored and it takes some time too and with the battery charge in poor condition, it would be more difficult to get it to run correctly. Cleaning the throttle body and IAC would help speed up things.

Even though we removed two door switches it still stays on. Do we need to remove all 4???

hard to say. what do you mean by door light?

Did you check the hood switch?
TRy disconnecting the other 2 switches to see if probem goes away.

There sulc be a short in the switch wirings causing the light to be on all the time.

replaces spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter. After starting even lightly taping on acceloerator vehicle stalls

what do you have for fuel pressure

Is testing for fuel pressure the next step? I am not a tech. That is obvious since I am asking these questions. I have no experience testing for fuel pressure. I was hoping replacing a simple sensor or switch would solve this problem. What is the process for testing fuel pressure?

this the page that shows how to check fuel pump and fuel pressure

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

as if it a sensor or switch need to check for codes
this is one way of RETRIEVING TROUBLE CODES

CAUTION:DO NOT enter self-diagnostic system until all basic engine checks (engine, fuel and spark) have been performed.


Verify CHECK ENGINE light circuit is operational.
Ensure battery voltage is above 11 volts and charging system is okay.
Engine must be at normal operating temperature.
Transmission/transaxle must be in Neutral or Park. Air conditioner and other accessories must be off.
Throttle valve must be closed (throttle position idle contacts closed).
Turn ignition switch to ON position with engine off.
Place jumper wire across "TE1" (or "T") and "E1" terminals in engine check connector. See Fig. below.

Count number of flashes from CHECK ENGINE light.
If system is operating properly (with no codes), CHECK ENGINE light will blink continuously and evenly.

NOTE:If CHECK ENGINE light stays on and will not blink codes, verify battery voltage is present at "TE1" (or "T") with key on and engine off. Ensure "E1" has continuity to ground or self-diagnostics will not work. If ground ("E1") is open, jumper "TE1" (or "T") to battery ground.

A trouble code will be identified by a .5 second flash on and off for the first number. A 1.5 second pause will occur followed by the second number.
If more than one code is stored, a 2.5 second pause will occur before second code is flashed. Once all codes have been displayed, a 4.5 second pause will occur and code(s) will repeat.
Trouble codes are given from smallest number code to largest number code. After codes are retrieved, remove jumper wire to exit diagnostic mode.

I have a 1989 Toyota Camry LE V6 with 96,000 miles. It is an automatic. I left it sitting for approximately 2 weeks and when I went to drive it, it wouldn't accelerate over about 15 mph, the idle was low and rough, and I had to have it towed. The mechanic couldn't replicate the acceleration problem, but replaced the battery, coolant temp sensor, spark plugs, distributor rotor, and fuel filter to treat the low, rough idle. Still, the idle was low and rough and they couldn't do any more to fix it and asked me to come pick it up. Since then, I've been to two other mechanics, including a dealership, and had the following: throttle body cleaned mass air flow sensor replaced EGR valve replace EGR vacuum modulator replaced, cold start injector replaced. Still the car idles low at times and will stall out at hard stops. If I stop gently, the RPM's may decrease but probably won't stall. It accelerates okay, but seems to lack a little power. The idle air control valve clicks after I turn the engine off, which is apparently a sign that it is working correctly. What else should I be looking at? Ignition Coil? Fuel Pressure regulator? Alternator? ECU? I can't afford to keep throwing good money after bad to fix this... please help.