91 4runner; trottle sensor replaced

1991 TOYOTA 4RUNNER
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CHERRYJERRY
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I have a 91 4runner, 4-cyl, 5 speed, 4x4. I replaced the trottle sensor, then when I started it, the idle ran really high (between 2 - 3 rpm) and then started to rev or lope. I took off the new sensor and put the old one back, but it did the same thing. Black smoke also started to come out of the exhaust. I checked all the hoses and connections, they all look okay. I'm stumped! Any suggestions, I need my car to go to work.
Oct 20, 2007 at 2:08 AM
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RASMATAZ
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This is how to adjust the TPS

You need a feeler gauge thickness of .0185 between the throttle lever and throttle stop screw.

Now you need to have an ohmmeter to read terminal IDL and E2 it should read infinity any reading other than infinite-is a no-no it has to be infinity.

When its at WOT the reading between the VTA and E2 should be 3.3K to 10K ohms.
Oct 20, 2007 at 3:15 AM
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CHERRYJERRY
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Do I need an ohmeter for this or can I use something else? I don't have an ohmeter.Without the correct reading on the terminal, the trottle sensor won't work? Is that correct?

[quote:fe3657bbfb="rasmataz"]This is how to adjust the TPS

You need a feeler gauge thickness of .0185 between the throttle lever and throttle stop screw.

Now you need to have an ohmmeter to read terminal IDL and E2 it should read infinity any reading other than infinite-is a no-no it has to be infinity.

When its at WOT the reading between the VTA and E2 should be 3.3K to 10K ohms.[/quote:fe3657bbfb]
Oct 20, 2007 at 11:19 AM
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RASMATAZ
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It has to be a multimeter. Or you can adjust it by loosening it up and turning till it stops reving/loping.

BTW what make you changed it? Try this open up the idle air control valve and clean it up and see what happens.
Oct 20, 2007 at 1:07 PM
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CHERRYJERRY
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Thanks so much! I'll try it!! Wish me luck...BTW I changed it because the the piece below the trottle kept sticking and ran with a really low idel, so someone suggested changing the trottle sensor.

[quote:c4f4333e13="rasmataz"]It has to be a multimeter. Or you can adjust it by loosening it up and turning till it stops reving/loping.

BTW what make you changed it? Try this open up the idle air control valve and clean it up and see what happens.[/quote:c4f4333e13]
Oct 20, 2007 at 3:37 PM
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CHERRYJERRY
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I borrowed an ohmeter, but I don't really know how to work it. When I put the probes on the IDL and E2 terminal, it reads with flashing numbers. How do I get it set to infinity? And if I don't use the ohmeter what do I need to "adjust it by loosening it up and turning till it stops reving/loping"?

[quote:7dc9b09a82="rasmataz"]It has to be a multimeter. Or you can adjust it by loosening it up and turning till it stops reving/loping.

BTW what make you changed it? Try this open up the idle air control valve and clean it up and see what happens.[/quote:7dc9b09a82]
Oct 20, 2007 at 6:27 PM
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RASMATAZ
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Disconnect the wire connector at the TPS, now put probe on the terminals inside. Set the meter @ 10ohms, the needle should not move or no reading at all.

Or you can just turn it till it stops fluctuating while the engine is running.
Oct 20, 2007 at 10:54 PM
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CHERRYJERRY
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I disconnected the wire connector at the TPS, and put the probes on the terminals inside, the engine started to rev up to 5rpm and A LOT of smoke came out. I looked at the ohmeter, but there wasn't 10ohms on it. I have 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, 2000k and a symbol that looks like an arrow with a line. When you say that I "can just it till it stops fluctuating" what do you mean by "it"? Please help me, I really do appreciate all your help!!!

[quote:01d700bcba="rasmataz"]Disconnect the wire connector at the TPS, now put probe on the terminals inside. Set the meter @ 10ohms, the needle should not move or no reading at all.

Or you can just turn it till it stops fluctuating while the engine is running.[/quote:01d700bcba]
Oct 20, 2007 at 11:15 PM
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RASMATAZ
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Stop what you doing with TPS, find the idle air control valve take it out and clean it real good.

Also the meter set at 20K, at this range when testing the IDL to E2 should not get any reading meaning its not making contact internally this is what you want. Then check the terminal VTA and E2 it should give the readings between 3.3-10K at the 20K range.
Oct 21, 2007 at 7:19 PM
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CHERRYJERRY
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I really appreciate all your help. But I still have a question, What do I do if I'm checking the VTA & E2 terminal and it gives me flashing numbers? Is there a way to adjust it?

[quote:f3b7ad28d8="rasmataz"]Stop what you doing with TPS, find the idle air control valve take it out and clean it real good.

Also the meter set at 20K, at this range when testing the IDL to E2 should not get any reading meaning its not making contact internally this is what you want. Then check the terminal VTA and E2 it should give the readings between 3.3-10K at the 20K range.[/quote:f3b7ad28d8]
Oct 22, 2007 at 11:03 PM
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RASMATAZ
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Make sure you off the igniton switch-

The meter should give you a reading between 3.3K -10K ohms-it should not be flashing-if so something is wrong with the meter. Are you using the feeler gauge at the same time checking it?

You sure there's no vacuum leak giving the computer a curveball is to how to adjust the fuel-is your coolant temperature sensor any good?
Oct 22, 2007 at 11:24 PM
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CHERRYJERRY
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What is the "feeler gauge"? On the Ohmeter, what's the difference on the red probe and the black probe? Which is suppose to be on what? Am I suppose to leave the probe on the terimals for a while? I'm clueless!!! I am so sorry! I'm a single mom (of 5 kids & 3 step-kids) who can do repairs around the house, work a full time job, trying to start a new business but when it comes to car repairs, I don't have a clue! Thanks for all your help!!
[quote:e9fabf20a6="rasmataz"]Make sure you off the igniton switch-

The meter should give you a reading between 3.3K -10K ohms-it should not be flashing-if so something is wrong with the meter. Are you using the feeler gauge at the same time checking it?

You sure there's no vacuum leak giving the computer a curveball is to how to adjust the fuel-is your coolant temperature sensor any good?[/quote:e9fabf20a6]
Oct 23, 2007 at 1:36 AM
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RASMATAZ
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A feeler gauge is a tool that measures a gap thickness-look below


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_feeler_gauges_1.jpg

Put the feeler gauge thickness .018 thousandths of an inch at the throttle lever Put the red lead to the IDL and black to E-2 The same as VTA Loosen the TPS and move it till this is no reading on the meter. Then for the VTA-measure it should give you a reading between 3,000 to 10,000 ohms
Oct 23, 2007 at 1:59 AM
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CHERRYJERRY
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When I loosen the sensor and put the probes on the VTA & E2, it only reads "0.08" no matter which way I turn it. (It's hard to move it because of the spring arm inside of the sensor) What am I doing wrong? Because when I do the IDL & E2, I get a 0.00 reading. I also checked the air control valve, it did have some gunk in it, so I cleaned it out. So now I don't have the black smoke, but it still idles really high and revs.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Put the feeler gauge thickness .018 thousandths of an inch at the throttle lever

Put the red lead to the IDL and black to E-2

The same as VTA

Loosen the TPS and move it till this is no reading on the meter.

Then for the VTA-measure it should give you a reading between 3,000 to 10,000 ohms[/quote]
Oct 23, 2007 at 2:48 AM
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RASMATAZ
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When I loosen the sensor and put the probes on the VTA & E2, it only reads "0.08" no matter which way I turn it.

What scale on the meter are you using? You are good on the IDL to E-2.
Oct 23, 2007 at 2:53 AM
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RASMATAZ
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Make sure the tube between the MAF sensor and throttle body is securely tight and no cracks on it-if so you need to fix it. this is what you call false air/unmetered that the computer will not adjust to.
Oct 23, 2007 at 3:01 AM
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CHERRYJERRY
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According to the Haynes Repair book, my 4runner doesn't have a MAF sensor, or at least they don't mention it. I can't find anything in the book mentioning a MAF sensor. I did notice that the rubber on the tip end of the Dash DOT (I think) is ripped. Could this be my vacuum leak? It doesn't feel like it has a vacuum. Am I wearing you out? I'm at my wits end, already! I've been borrowing a car to get my kids to school and to go to work. I really need to get my car running, and I don't have the money to take it to a professional mechanic, so I really, really appreciate all your help and patience!!

[quote:3017508dcf="rasmataz"]Make sure the tube between the MAF sensor and throttle body is securely tight and no cracks on it-if so you need to fix it. this is what you call false air/unmetered that the computer will not adjust to.[/quote:3017508dcf]
Oct 23, 2007 at 3:59 AM
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RASMATAZ
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Its in the air filter housing also known as AFM airflow meter. its like a flap in the inside of the housing.

What am talking about is the tube from the airfilter housing to the throttle body-you might want to check the airfilter too.

I did notice that the rubber on the tip end of the Dash DOT (I think) is ripped. Where is this at?
Oct 23, 2007 at 4:19 AM
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CHERRYJERRY
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The Dash DOT or POT is under the trottle lever, by th e trottle linkage. It is suppose to be a stopper for the trottle, I think.

[quote:1b28c17c68="rasmataz"]

I did notice that the rubber on the tip end of the Dash DOT (I think) is ripped. Where is this at?[/quote:1b28c17c68]
Oct 23, 2007 at 11:32 AM
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RASMATAZ
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The dash pot is mainly use for deceleration purposes to slow the closing of the throttle plate to prevent rich mixture.

Try adjusting it might be holding the throttle plate open. Can't recall I think that's where you put the feeler gauge.
Oct 23, 2007 at 2:16 PM