Torque specs/seal

Unfortunately, the manual doesn't have this process in one repair process so I gathered all the component replacement processes that it appears you will need.

They include all the torque specs that you are looking for but please pay attention to the different inch pounds or ft pounds because there are many people that use foot pounds when it says inch pounds. Chrysler did a good job in listing it in Newton meters and then the US spec so that there is less confusion.

Also, here are a couple of guides that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-harmonic-balancer-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

Please see the info below attached and please let me know if I missed any torque specs you are looking for.

Lastly RTV is just fine to use with any of these gaskets but please read the RTV and make sure it is compatible with the type of gasket you are using. Some are not with paper/rubber gaskets, but they are with cork and vice versa.

Thanks

So, do i release that tensioner pin before putting chain on?
I've tried like crazy to get chain on and didn't release tensioner yet.

The pin should be the last thing that you release before putting the cover back on. So basically, when you are installing a timing chain, you line everything up and then remove the pin. Then double check that the timing marks are still lined up and then put the cover on.

What is it that you are not able to get on? You can't get the timing chain on both sprockets?

Can you get a picture of what you are dealing with and that should help us figure out what to do?

Thanks

Figure 83 shows a screwdriver in it and releasing pin without chain on it. maybe that's removable.

Here's a picture. i tried directly and can't get top sprocket in slot. wire is temporary to hold it from sliding off as i try.
I already tried directly without wire piece to hold in. I don't have enough clearance it seems dots lined up.
I haven't done anything to tensioner after installing it either pin in.

.

I got it on by removing the tensioner. pulling pin using vice grip and putting a bigger piece of thick wire in and twisting a round point. then after installing tensioner back on, I removed the right slipcover on tensioner, used a long pry screwdriver in that thick wire and pried the platform out more and held driver there.

The space was much better.
I then used a socket 19mm ,exact same size as hole in top sprocket, an a 5 inch bolt with exact same threads as hole and a few nuts to take up space an firmly tightened it for an ideal guide. Then with PVC pipe and wood ,after lining it all up an key at grove, an dots centered, tapped the PVC pipe with wood block an it slowly slid on .An tapped bottom one an then top till both set. W ill torque soon. Then i put back on the 2 inch plastic guard and cut that wire in pin hole on other side of tensioner..

There's the pics.



Now for the torque specs. 50 ftlbs correct? An is it 135 ft for huge bolt at lower dampener.

That is great info. Thanks for the update. That is correct. 50-foot pounds for the camshaft bolt.

The large crank damper and washer is 180-foot pounds. Please see the info attached.

Thanks

Wow, I've been told its 135 ft lbs. on damper. By a few people and some charts. i likely should ask dealer.

Vibration Damper/Hub To  Crankshaft135Ft-Lbs1620In-Lbs183.04N-mYears: AllNote:Magnum - Vibration Damper to Crankshaft BoltType: BoltDim:Length:Head: HexagonGrade:

One question.
I may need to go back and reset the marks. top one is to the right a bit. is this common for new sprocket and dots not to line up?

I think I will put the old sprockets back on without chain and see if the top one is where i started, at TDC .

I took those screen shots directly out of the dealer manual. Take a look at the screen shot below and notice the header that lists this vehicle and engine.

As for the marks not lining up, they are not always going to be exactly on, but they are going to be close. It is a little hard to tell because I can't tell if those were all your markings or not.

However, it is obvious when you are a tooth off so if this is as close as it gets, and these are new parts then it is fine.

Thanks. Yes, i got timing chain move over fast with that new technique. Got pump on the dampener is at TDC and almost ready to start it.
Is there anything on or before the first start, I need to do such as bump the motor over, etc.?
Later I will retorque that 50 more lbs. Is there a local rental tool/or a good technique to use to prevent the dampener from turning as you torque it? Would using the impact be a better option?
Thanks

You want to be careful using an impact on the crank as that can damage the bearings. So, if you want to run it down but don't torque it using an impact.

To install it properly you want to use the tool shown in the picture below or in the illustration above.

Basically, these tools will press it on, and it will hold the crank still so that you can tighten it down.

I saw that at auto store but when you're up to 130ft lbs and it's extremely tight how does it prevent the entire balancer from turning?

I think there's a tool that blocks balancer from ever turning after your up there at high 150ft a 185 ft lbs but not sure it's at parts rental.

I used bolts inside big holes on balancer and after 130 it all turned.
It's running good, but the oil at broken pan seal dripping. is there any chance of a RTV seal fix or will i need to pull the entire oil pan gasket? I can fish a new one after lowering pan. [ not going to attempt entire removal of pan off truck [ been through it before with oil pump].
Any RTVif i use new gasket ad are the pan ft lbs 16?

If it is still turning, then the only way, I know of is to have someone use a pry bar in the flex plate and hold it still while you are tightening the balancer. Basically, that is the other end of the crankshaft and so that will prevent it from moving.

As for the oil leak, you could seal it with RTV, but it may not last. However, we are going to have to get a new post started for that issue because others will not find it under this topic. If others have an oil leak and are looking for it, they may not find it under this heading, so we need to get a new started.

Thanks again.