Torque converter?

The process on an empty transmission is to make sure the splines are clean, then apply a thin coat of CVTF+4 to the seals and spline and then install the converter. Then measure the depth of the converter to be sure it is seated. You want at least 13 mm between the surfaces shown. Then you install the transmission and fill it with 8 liters of CVTF+4. Now start the engine and let it idle. Shut it off and check the fluid level based on fluid temperature using the 9336A Dipstick installed in the dipstick tube.

Okay thank you. Also, when putting the torque converter on the four bolts that I put back in it do they need to be tort with a torque wrench? And does it matter which of the four bolt holes I start with I've seen on a video that on the flywheel I think that's what it's called that one of the holes has two sides of it flat and that's the one you start with on there but does it matter which hole you start with on the torque converter?

The attached is the torque specs and the steps to use to install it.

Thank you for all your help, one more thing. I've seen on Google that if you get a new transmission that you're supposed to get new axles is that true or can I use and keep my old ones?

The axles shouldn't be an issue, unless they are damaged.

The transmission I bought, one of the bolt holes for the transmission pan is stripped is the whole transmission trash now or can I still use it?

If it's only stripped of the threads just install a Heli-coil in the hole and it will be fine. Lots of videos out there on the process, but it's basically, drill out the hole, thread with the special tap, install the insert, Break off the install tang. Finished.

Would you happen to know what size Heli-coil I need to get for the transmission pan on a 2014 Jeep Patriot 2.0?

I figured out what size but now I need to know how tight do I torque these bolts for the transmission pan?

70 inch pounds.

On the round thing in the middle of the transmission I believe that's called the torque converter the four bolts in it does it matter which one I start with?

The pilot will center in the crankshaft, then you pick a bolt, start to tighten it, then rotate to the next and put it in, then repeat back to the first one. You want it to seat evenly, now go around again and tighten them snug. Check the alignment and torque them down. If you remove the spark plugs it makes it much easier.

So I finished putting the transmission in and everything back together on my 2014 Jeep Patriot 2.0 CVT transmission in it as well. So I just finished and I got a test drive it and I can't get over 20 mph I don't have no power whenever I push on the gas I can push it all the way to the floor and it's still barely goes I'm not sure what's going on my check engine light is on the only code that popped up was P167A calibration mismatch! I have no idea what that is the person that O'Reilly's couldn't tell me anything! Also, this is on the papers they printed it out, but they didn't say anything about these codes. Is this something I have to fix as well?

That means the vehicles TCM doesn't like the information stored on the chip in the transmission. It will require a scan tool and connection to Jeep corporate to download the proper file in order to perform the TCM relearn. It basically says that the CVT was replaced but not calibrated to your vehicle. Once calibrated then you can test it.

Okay thank you how do I go about doing that is that something I can do or I have to pay someone to do?

If you have a WiTech 2.0 tool that can do J2534 bus programming and pay for the access to the Stellantis service information site https://www.mopartsp.com/login , you could DIY. If not, you need a shop that can do it.

And how much does that usually cost?

Depends on the shop, some are pretty low, others are very expensive. The equipment to DIY it the lowest price scan tool that can do it runs about $3,000.00 plus the extra programming cost that runs about $100.00.

And how much does a shop usually charge to reprogram the transmission chip?

Hard to say exactly because it depends on location and shop practice. Most use 1 hour minimum, others charge you for that plus the connection fee they pay. Also can depend on if they already have an account as that can be a pain these days.

What do I ask the mechanics on the phone if they can program my transmission chip or what terminology do I use so they know what I'm talking about I need done? Please and thank you.

Just tell them you replaced the CVT and need the replacement coded to match the vehicle.

Okay thank you.

You're welcome. Please let us know the outcome.

So I had a leak on my transmission the gasket was bad and I took it I drained it then took the pan off put a new one on there put it back together and I'm not sure how much transmission fluid I put back in because the internet says that the torque converter has a couple quarts in it and I took out a little bit more than five quarts so should I only put five quarts back in or what I bought a dipstick for the transmission and it's reading at 50mm and at 120 or 30° and it's supposed to be at 200° if it's at 50mm the dipstick says not 50 at 120 or 30° so I think it's overfilled?

There will always be some in the transmission and the cooler that doesn't drain out. To fill it you add some fluid, then run it to warm it up, then check the fluid level at the correct temperature.

So about how much is left in it after you drain the transmission I even took the pan off so it all came out besides the cooler whatever that is but whenever I drained it a little over 5 came out I put five back in and not thinking about some still being in there I put two more courts in there so I put seven in all plus whatever was still in there do you think it's safe to say I need to drain some? Because the temperature got between 120 and 130 degrees and that dipstick I couldn't tell where the fill line was on it because the whole thing is covered in transmission fluid like from the sides of the tube or something! Also, I don't see how you could test the level in something while it started, I would think that the fluid would be bouncing and vibrating all around making it not at a level point right? I just need to know how much I should take out if I should?

In total it holds about 8 quarts of fluid for that car. Some hold far more. The reason to check it while it is running is so that you get a reading of the level while it is in use and most of the fluid is in the working parts of the transmission. If you check it with it shut off it will read high because all of the fluid in the passages, converter and systems drains back into the pan. If you filled it cold as soon as you start it and the pump pulls in the fluid it's very possible that it would not have enough fluid. In a transmission the fluid does a lot, it gets pressurized to operate the parts but it also lubricates the bearings and bushings and it also acts as a coolant.
Start it and run it through the gears, now with it idling check the level. Pull the stick, wipe it off and put it back. Check it. if it's to high remove some (being new fluid you could use an extractor that is clean and save the fluid).

Yeah I started it yesterday and let it run and checked it and as far as I could tell it seemed like it was high so I guess I need to remove some if there's like the seven chords I put in there and then let's say 3 quarts and all the passageways and whatnot if I leave that running to check it ain't that going to mess up my transmission having like 10 quarts in it?

Also would it be bad to use the transmission fluid if I drained it out of the bottom of the transmission if it looks good?

Yes you could re-use it as long as it's clean.

I still haven't figured out how much transmission fluid is in there that dipstick tool is ridiculous the transmission fluid gets on the edges of it as it goes down in there and you can't tell where the level is cuz it's on the whole thing I'm at a loss as to what to do except to try and ask a mechanic if he would come and check my transmission fluid cuz I can't drive there without knowing how much is in there like and they'll probably charge me an arm and a leg just to come and check my transmission fluid.

Also, what will happen if I get too much fluid in there?

It can be a bear if it's overfilled. The fluid can get foamy and cause damage. Attached is the check procedure.

Thank you. Should the car be in park whenever I check it? Because some videos and some sites say that you need to have it in forward or reverse?

Park or neutral with the wheels blocked. The idea is that you run it to warm it up and circulate the fluids, so the various parts are filled. Then with it in park or neutral with the engine running the various parts are filled and the pan should only have the remainder and be full at the operating temperature. When the engine is then shut off and the fluid all drains out of components that are higher than the pan you would read it as overfilled. But the second you start the engine back up the fluid goes back into circulation and would now read as full again. It's intended to keep the transmission and cooler lines filled while in operation.

So car was fixed car was running my Jeep 2014 Patriot 2.0 and my battery light came on I tested the alternator with a multimeter determined that the alternator was bad went and bought a brand new alternator put it on it ran so good sounds so good and I drove it just a little bit around town it was great. Then I went to go to the store and the battery light came back on and it's reading with the multimeter as if the alternator ain't charging it I don't know what my problem could be now a faulty alternator or what please help?

We try to keep the issues separated to make searching easier so could you ask this as a new question? However I would suggest having a shop run a system test on the vehicle. The analyzers used these days can help pinpoint the problem.

Okay thank you very much I figured it out I was sold a faulty alternator cars running great now. But I have another issue if you could give me some good information and advice like you normally do! Okay here we go so whenever I take off most of the time whenever I'm trying to accelerate my Jeep bogs down like it's getting too much gas or not enough it goes from the normal noise it makes to the only way I can explain it is sounding bogged down. I'm wondering if it can be like the fuel filter or fuel pump or some kind of sensor?

Good to hear you found the issue. Not the first time someone got a bad "new part" Like quite a few of us say these days, "Just because it's new, doesn't mean it any good". I had a local parts store test 4 alternators right off their shelves and 1 was bad and 1 was marginal. Brand new parts. Have had counterfeit parts, parts with the wrong stamps on them and more. That is why I try to use only OE, and will go to a salvage yard to get a used OE part if the only available ones are aftermarket. Spend 8 hours tearing out a dash panel to get to a 20 dollar part, put it back together and a month later that new part fails and see how often you want to use those parts.

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