Timing belt replacement

Good morning.

Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/honda/accord/1995

Install the timing belt and timing balancer belt in the reverse order of removal.
Only key points are described here.
- When installing only the timing balancer belt, go to step 13.

Note: Clean the upper and lower covers before installation.

1. Remove the timing balancer belt drive pulley.


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2. Set the timing belt drive pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the dimple on the tooth of the timing belt drive pulley with the V pointer on the oil pump.


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3. Set the camshaft pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC. Align the TDC mark on the camshaft pulley with the cylinder head upper surface.


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4. Install the timing belt tightly in the sequence shown.
(1)Timing belt drive pulley (crankshaft) -> (2) Adjusting pulley -> (3) Water pump pulley -> (4) Camshaft pulley.

Note: Make sure the timing belt drive pulley and camshaft pulley are at TDC.

5. Loosen and retighten the adjusting nut to tension the timing belt.
6. Install the timing balancer belt drive pulley and lower cover.
7. Install the crankshaft pulley, then tighten the pulley bolt.
8. Rotate the crankshaft pulley about 5 or 6 turns counterclockwise so that the timing belt positions on the pulleys.
9. Adjust the timing belt tension.


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10. Make sure the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulley are at TDC.
11. If the camshaft or crankshaft pulley is not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning, then reinstall the timing belt.
12. Remove the crankshaft pulley and lower cover.
13. Set the timing belt drive pulley so that the No.1 piston at TDC.
14. Lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place by installing one of the 6 x 1.0 mm bolts.
15. Loosen the adjusting nut 2/3 - 1 turn, and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
16. Push the tensioner to remove tension from the timing balancer belt, then retighten the adjusting nut.


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17. Align the rear balancer shaft pulley by using a 6 x 100 mm bolt or equivalent as a tool. Scribe a line 74 mm (2.9 in) from the end of the bolt. Insert the bolt into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.


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18. Align the groove on the front balancer shaft pulley with the pointer on the oil pump housing as shown.
19. Install the timing balancer belt. Loosen the adjusting nut 2/3 - 1 turn to tension the timing balancer belt.
20. Remove the 6 x 100 mm bolt from the rear balancer shaft, then install the 12 mm sealing bolt.
21. Install the crankshaft pulley, then tighten the pulley bolt.
22. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the adjusting nut.
23. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm.
24. Remove the crankshaft pulley, then install the lower cover.
25. Install the rubber seal around the adjusting nut.

Note: Do not loosen the adjusting nut.

26. Install the crankshaft pulley, then tighten the pulley bolt.
27. After installation, adjust the tension of each belt.

i have two timing belts i need to know how to put them back on and put them back in time?

Hi jesstalon,

Engine Mechanical problem
1995 Honda Accord 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 95.ooo miles

i replaced the whater pump and timing belt. crank TDC. cams at timing marks. distributor no# 1 with plugs out turned over engine 6 or 7 times. sooth. everthing lined up. tried to fired it up.does not whant to sart. help.

[quote:eb36cd54bb="atkinson 1"]Engine Mechanical problem
1995 Honda Accord 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 95.ooo miles

i replaced the whater pump and timing belt. crank TDC. cams at timing marks. distributor no# 1 with plugs out turned over engine 6 or 7 times. sooth. everthing lined up. tried to fired it up.does not whant to sart. help.[/quote:eb36cd54bb]

Hello,

When you put crank at TDC did you make sure it was on the Compression Stroke. If not sure just pull #1 plug bump or hand turn crank with your finger in hole till you feel air pressure then look in cylinder and complete getting piston at TDC. Then pull cap and see were rotor is pointing.

Also did you double check and make sure everything is plugged back in.


.

okay today i was changing my timing belt that has never been done yet and i had trouble stretching the new one on. i was really tight with the tensioner in the weakest setting so all that pulling moved my crankshaft. how do i find top dead center and any tips to putting the new one on? its a bando tb 224.
thanks :)

I hope this will help.

okay, but the belt is realy tight to put on. any tips?

Did you loosen the adjuster nut and backed the tensioner pulley off?

I am trying to remove the crankshaft pully bolt off of my 95 honda accord, but every time I try to turn the bolt, the timing belt keeps moving. I don't know how to keep the timing belt from moving so I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.

The bolt is torqued at 150 ft.lbs and requires some strength to have it removed. Either you use a high torqued impact wrench or you need a wrench to hold the pulley.

What other parts should be changed when changing the timing belt?

What's a good manufacturer to purchase from?

Most people change the water pump while they are in there because it's driven by the timing belt. At that mileage, you may want to buy a complete timing kit that includes the tensioners and idler pulleys if it has one.

My timing Belt went out on my Accord while driving very low RPM's. I towed it home and pulled the valve cover off and inspected the valves and noticed i got lucky and all the valves where closed at the time of the break. I replaced the belts and the tensioners being sure all marks are on with the marks on the block. However now the car runs very choppy and almost dies at idle. Car performs like nothing is wrong but sounds like it's only running on 3 cylinders. Please Help.

If the idle is rough, it is possible that the timing belt was improperly installed. However, if it was installed correctly, it can be likely that you need to adjust the idle. Raise the hood and look to the left side of the engine near the distributor cap. There should be a little plug which allows you to adjust the idle. Make certain that the plug is reinstalled after you are done. Please post your results and I will follow up. If you need detailed instructions on installing the timing belt to better assist you with knowing that it is indeed on correctly, just let me know and I can post them for you.

thanks for your feed back i thought of the idle also i turned that up a little bit. turning the idle up to 1k RPM's but it still runs very shaky. shakes the whole car. Also i noticed today while driving that if i am cruzing through town or wat not if i give it just a little bit of gas to try to stay at the speed limit it jerks the car. not sure wat it could be i know quite a bit about honda's through helping people with theres and i am in college for the automotive feild. but this was my first timing belt so this is all kinda new to me.

I have a 1993 Honda Accord with 187,789 miles. I bought the car two months ago with 185,087 miles. I have tried to get information from the previous owner through the dealer about when the timing belt was last replaced, but I have gotten no answer. There is no info in the car as to the previous keepers.

How much is a timing belt replacement for a '93 Accord? Is there any visual check I can do to determine the condition of the belt?

If the timing belt has been replaced there is usually a sticker placed on the top of the timing cover with the date and the milage that it was changed at.
(although this is not always the case.)

It is possible to see the timing belt by removing the upper timing belt cover, but even to the professional
it is difficult to determine it's age by looking at it.
(unless it is really bad)
It takes approx. 3 hrs labor plus the cost of the belt approx. $50.00 a small price to pay compared to what it could cost to repair your engine if the belt breaks. (bent valves, broken pistons, etc.)
If your not sure, change it, you'll be glad you did.
P.S. they will likely recommend that you change your waterpump and camshaft seals at the same time.
(both good ideas)
Hope this helps!

Thanks. I will go out and see if I can spot a date or anything like that.

Tommorow I will go out to a few places and get some quotes on a replacement. Thanks for your advice!

1993 Honda Accord Two Wheel Drive Automatic 128,00 miles

I am considering purchasing this car. The owner says the timing belt was changed at 114,000 miles. I don't know if this was the first time it was changed, but if it was, what are the chances that waiting that long to put in a new timing belt would damage the engine or cause excess wear?

Hi there,

If the belt was changed you have no problems, there will be no issue with extending the life of the belt, but if it fails that is when you get the problems, you will do serious damage to the engine, that is why they have a life and the belts should be changed as this is well with in the expected fail time of the belt,

Mark (mhpautos)

Thank for this input, I do appreciate it!

we did a timing belt on my 92 accord and when we started her up she was idling really rough...if you tap the gas its a little better but she will make a noise as if she was backfiring under the hood

Make sure timing marks are all dead on and that engine was at top dead center, (putting a screwdriver in a spark plug hole to watch piston movement works great). If you removed the plugs and wires make sure that the firing order is correct, (plug wires on right plugs). then Double check that the wires are on the right plugs... it gets messed up more often then you'd think... also check that the plug wires are seated on each end and check for spark at each plug. Hope this helps. Good luck.

1991 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual
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I am changing my timing belt. I placed my 1 piston at TDC, I took the top timing cover off and the top sroket showed the up positin still needed a quarter turn or a little less. Can I still turn itbefore takig off the bottomtiming cover and crank shaft?

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
3. Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container and cap it when full. Wipe up spillage immediately.
4. Support the engine with a floor jack on the oil pan (use a cushion between the jack and pan). Tension the jack so that it is just supporting the engine but not lifting it.

Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 7: Timing belt and components used on DOHC Prelude engines
Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 8: Timing belt and components used on SOHC Prelude engines

5. Remove the side engine support bolts and nuts, then remove the side mount. Remove the cruise control actuator if so equipped; move the actuator out of the way without disconnecting or kinking the cable.
6. Remove the splash shield from below the engine.

Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 9: Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth, then tighten the adjuster bolt to the specified torque

7. Loosen the adjusting nut for the power steering belt and remove the belt. Remove the adjusting pulley and the power steering pump. Move the pump out of the way with the hoses attached.
8. Disconnect the wiring at the alternator. Remove the alternator through-bolt; remove the mounting and adjusting bolts and remove the alternator and belt.
9. On cars with air conditioning, remove the compressor mounting bolts. Remove the compressor and belt. Do not disconnect the lines from the compressor. Position the compressor out of the way and support it with stiff wire.
10. On fuel injected vehicles, remove the ignition wires from the valve cover and remove the harness protector from the cylinder head.
11. Remove the valve cover.
12. Unfasten the crankshaft bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.

This bolt is one of the tightest on the entire car. The pulley must be held in place while the bolt is loosened. One trick is to wrap an old drive belt around the pulley to hold it steady-don't try this with a belt that is to go back on the car; it will be stretched or damaged.

13. Remove the timing belt covers.
14. Loosen, but do not remove, the adjusting bolt on the timing belt tensioner. Move the tensioner off the belt and retighten the bolt.
15. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the timing belt. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belt. The belt must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Carefully remove the belt from the pulleys without crimping it. Protect the belt from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belt at this point.

To install:

16. Double check the engine position; it must be at TDC for No. 1 cylinder. All of the following conditions must be met: The timing pointer is aligned with the white mark on the flywheel or flexplate, the UP mark on each camshaft pulley is at the top and the alignment marks on each cam pulley are aligned with the edges of the cylinder head.

On fuel injected engines, each of the camshafts may be held in the TDC position by inserting 5mm diameter punches into the alignment holes just behind each cam pulley.

17. If using the same timing belt, install it so that it rotates in the same direction as before. Remove the punches holding the cams if they were installed.
18. Loosen the tensioner adjusting bolt, and allow it to apply pressure to the belt.
19. Reinstall the lower belt cover.
20. Reinstall the crankshaft pulley and key. Coat the threads of the bolt with light oil, but do not lubricate the face of the bolt which contacts the washer. On fuel injected engines, tighten the bolt to 108 ft. lbs. (150 Nm); on carbureted engines, tighten the bolt to 83 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).

The chamfered side of the washer faces the bolt. Tightening of the bolt is best accomplished with the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in gear (manual) or in Park (automatic).

21. Loosen the timing belt adjuster bolt. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Tighten the adjuster bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
22. Install the valve cover and the upper belt covers. On fuel injected vehicles, reinstall the ignition wires and the harness protector.
23. Reinstall the A/C compressor and belt. Tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
24. Reinstall the alternator and belt.
25. Install the power steering pump and belt, tightening the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
26. Adjust the accessory belt tensions.
27. Install the side engine mount and the cruise control actuator if it was removed. Tighten the engine mount bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) and the nuts to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
28. Refill the engine coolant.
29. Connect the negative battery cable.
30. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check the work area carefully for any sign of fluid leakage or any indication of the belt rubbing or slapping the covers. Bleed the cooling system.
31. Shut the engine off. Reinstall the splash shield.


-Rob

Hi, Guys,

I have a 1988 Honda Accord. I did not know I needed to get the timing belt changed at 60,000 miles until I was poking around on the net today and discovered that information. This past Sunday I was going to go somewhere, and well let's just say I did not get very far at all.

I am worried because the material I read on the Net indicates that I may have a reall serious problem here. I am wondering if you can give me an idea of the possible outcome of the blown belt and what I might be in for price wise. I would at least like to know the average fee for a repair like this.

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

Unfortunately this is an interference engine and serious damage can happen when a timing belt brakes, at best you can expect bent valves in the head at worst cracked pistons, as for cost, you will really need to have the head off to see how much damage you have but i would estimate a starting price around 1K would not be unrealistic.

Mark (mhpautos)

Engine Mechanical problem
1985 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic
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can you get me instructions on how to change the timing belt
our car has 300 thousand killometers i understand when the timing belt goes the engin in history
thank you
Dale

Your going to want this

I'm trying to estimate whether its worthwhile repairing the car or just selling it. I have received 4 quotations to change the timing belt and the water pump. (1) $700-750, (2) 650 - 700, (3) less than $300 and (4) less than $300. All include changing the timing belt, oil seals and water pump. I don't understand why the price range is so different! The last mechanic said that its better to use an American made timing belt instead of the Honda timing belt, since the former is of better quality. He also said that it doesn't matter which water pump to use, but that he could get a Honda water pump for $20 more. Finally, he said that the the two belt tensioners would cost $45 each (labor and part), but that it is only necessary to change it at 150,000 miles. Also, to replace the transmission, front cross member and ceterbeam he gave me an estimate of $1,200. Other estimates from other mechanics are from $1,000 to $1,800. I'm so confused! I'm only just giving myself a crash course on cars. Please help!

I don't understand it either. I do believe the lower quotes are out of whack for sure.

Assuming you have a/c, p/s and Cruise, the labor is 4.2 hours. At say $70/an hour that is $ 294 without parts or tax.

Extra time for tensioner replacement is another .4 or $28, I would guess parts are another $350 at the shop rate. thats about $650 + tax.

I am not sold on the honda belt being inferior, just the opposite IMHO. Get a new pump, aftermarket is typically fine. I do not feel too secure with the last opinion.


Centerbeam...I have no idea.

Putting $2000 into this car is not a bad deal in my opinion. The hondas go the distance.