Timing chain?

Hi,

Do you have the 3.7L V6 or the 5.3L V8? I need to know that to get the information needed.

I attached a couple of pics below. If you have the 3.7, see pic 1. Note, the colored links must align with the marks.

Pic 2 shows the 5.3L and is much easier to time the engine.



Let me know.

Joe

Hello! I have a 3.7l. I lined the marks up the second time, but it still isn't working.

Hi,

This is an interference engine. If it was out of time when you were cranking it, there could be internal damage.

If you can, record it cranking and upload it for me to hear. I should be able to tell if there is a compression issue. If you are unable to do this, here is a link that explains how to test engine compression.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

I tried to upload the video twice.

Hi,

The engine has no compression and will not run this way. If the timing was off the first time you put it together and you were cranking it, there is a chance there is internal damage to the valves. Please keep in mind that I am basing that on the timing to be correct at this point.

What I need you to do is remove the valve cover and see if there are any stuck valves.

I'm sorry for the bad news, but it took a half second for me to recognize the issue.

I don't know if you need them, but I attached the directions for removing and replacing the valve cover.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Sorry it took so long. I don't know how, but the coolant leaked into the cylinders.

Hi,

Chances are the head gasket was bad. Is there any evidence that the valves were hitting the tops of the pistons? Is there any damage you can see?

Also, get the coolant out of the cylinders, dry them, and place a film of motor oil over the cylinder walls. Make sure there is no coolant mixed with the engine oil as well. If it did, drain and replace it with new oil and a filter.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Joe

The piston tops have a few small scratches, is that enough to cause significant damage? The gasket i bought was three layers, and new from rockauto; what is a better choice for a gasket?

Hi,

Based on the pics, I would say you are okay. I attached a pic below from your pics. Are these marks from the valves?

Let me know. As far as the pistons, they look fine. You may want to confirm there is no damage to the valves. They should be okay, but you should check.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Yes, those are the valve marks, but the valves are not damaged.

Hi,

If the valves are not damaged, that's great. You can either put things together with the new gaskets or have the heads magnafluxed for cracks and if you have a good straight edge, run it across the block to make sure there is no more than a .005" gap at any point.

Let me know.

Joe

I just bought a torque wrench from Harbor freight: i tried to torque the cylinder block to the engine block using 22 ft/lbs, and the bolt snapped! Is that the right pounds per torque?

Hi,

Do you mean the cylinder head to the engine block or are you referring to the valve cover to the cylinder head?

The valve cover is 89-inch pounds, not foot-pounds. It works out to 7 foot-pounds.

The 12 head bolts are first tightened to 22 ft/lbs and then an additional 155-degree turn.

The end bolts on the head are different. You start at 62-inch pounds which is equal to 5 foot-pounds. And then slightly tighten after. See the directions below.

Note: The last pic is from a different manual. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't wrong. Both manuals are the same.

Remember, foot pounds and inch pounds are very different. Let me know if you have questions regarding them.

I attached the directions below. The last pic is just a torque confirmation.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Cylinder head to engine block. The bolt was brand new, but still snapped at 22 ft/lbs. Do i need a better equipped torque wrench?

Hi,

As long as they weren't the end bolts they shouldn't have broken. Once the initial torque to 22 ft/lbs is done, you have to go back and turn the bolts an additional 155 degrees. So, 22 ft/lbs is only the start.

I guess it could be the torque wrench or a faulty bolt, but the bolt, in most cases, isn't the issue. Do you have a different torque wrench? If you can get your hands on one, torque a bolt on something that isn't important to see if it is the same on the one you purchased. Also, what type of wrench is it? For example, tighten a bolt to 20 ft/lbs with a different wrench and see if your new one clicks before turning the bolt further.

Let me know.

Joe

I re-assembled the engine, and put all of the fluids back into it; as well as putting new spark plugs in. When i try to start the engine, i hear a faint combustions-to-spark, but it won't start. I tried to start it a second time, but the pistons turned without combustion. I looked inside to see if any fluids leaked into the cylinders, and there was none. Question, who does a thorough engine diagnosis?

I re-assembled the engine, and put all of the fluids back into it; as well as putting new spark plugs in. When i try to start the engine, i hear a faint combustions-to-spark, but it won't start. I try to start it a second time, but the pistons turn without combustion. I looked inside to see if any fluids leaked into the cylinders, and there was none. Question! Who does a thorough engine diagnosis?

Hi,

Are you certain the compression is good? The idea that you hear combustion, but it won't start leads me to think it's low.

Is it possible for you to record it cranking and upload it for me to hear?

Let me know. As far as diagnosis, usually, I can figure it out, but not being there makes it more of a challenge. Let me hear what it's doing.

Take care,

Joe

The compression sound is very faint in the beginning, then it stops in the middle of the video.

It has no compression for sure. Either the timing is off, or the valves are stuck open.

If you remove the valve cover, are the valves moving?

Joe