Tie rod replacement

Tighten to 35 ft. lbs then align hole for cotter pin, but do not exceed 52 ft.lbs.
Inner Tie Rod 74 ft.lb

I do not have a cotter pin on the inner tie rod, just the outer.

See pictures I am sorry I messed up on this one. make sure to use Loctite on the inner tie rod threads. It is 74 ft. Lbs is torque

It is 74 ft. lbs is torque

74 for the inner and 35 for the castle nut on the outer?

Yes then make sure to get it aligned so you do notwear your tires.

Thank you. How about the torque specs for a front sway bar?

The frame bolts 35 ft link nut 17 ft.

Thank you I wanted to make sure, the specs I had for the sway bar were correct.

Yep Hmac300 only works from the best data sources, let us know if you have any other questions and use 2Carpros.com anytime.

Where are you getting 35 ft. lbs. from?

I am wanting to do the outer tie rods on my 2000 Buick Century and trying to find the specs for the castle nut. This page from Autozone https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280217fd0 says 40 ft. lbs. What is it? Thanks.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. The torque specs for the tie rod have been revised.

Here is the update and the picture below provides the torque specs.

CONVERSION CALCULATOR

2000 Buick Century V6-3.1L VIN J
Vehicle » Steering and Suspension » Steering » Tie Rod » Technical Service Bulletins » Steering/Suspension - Revised Outer Tie Rod Nut Torque
STEERING/SUSPENSION - REVISED OUTER TIE ROD NUT TORQUE
Bulletin No.: 05-02-32-003

Date: June 13, 2005

SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE

Subject:
Revised Outer Tie Rod End Nut Tightening Specification/Tie Rod End Jam Nut Tightening Specification Added
Models:
1997-2004 Buick Regal
1997-2005 Buick Century
2000-2005 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
2002-2005 Chevrolet Impala
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1997-2005 Pontiac Grand Prix
This bulletin is being issued to revise the outer tie rod end nut tightening specification and include the tie rod end jam nut tightening specification in the Power Steering sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in the Service Manual with the following information.

The information has been updated within SI for the 1998-2005 model years. If you are using a paper version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hi Joe,
Thanks for the quick reply! I am still learning much so forgive my dumb questions.
Is the "tie rod end jam nut" the same as the castle nut, the one with the cotter pin through it? You mechanics in forums all use different names for these things online. :-)
I do not understand what is the "outer tie rod end nut". Is that the one threaded along the shaft between the inner and outer tie rod?
Thanks again.

Hi again. No problem with the questions. Feel free to ask. As far as the jam nut, it is the one that is used to secure the tie rod together with the steering (the shaft itself). It functions as a lock nut so things cannot come apart. You are correct about the castle nut. It is the one with the cotter pin. It holds the tie rod together with the steering knuckle.

Take a look at these general directions related to tie rod end replacement. I feel they may be helpful to you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/tie-rod-end-replacement

Do not worry about asking questions. That is why I am here. Let me know if you come up with any other questions and how the job went for you.

Take care and it is nearly Friday! lol Have a good weekend. (And yes, I am here on the weekends, too. So let me know if there is a problem.

Joe

Hi Joe,
Okay, I got partway done with the job, the nuts were all really seized up, they have probably been on there for seventeen years, so it took a lot of WD40 and elbow grease. But I got the driver's side one off and replaced just fine, I think. Picture of the cotter pin, I think I got it wrapped around there enough?

The passenger side was way harder to get the castle nut off. I had a guy helping me and he was using a longer bar on the ratchet, and it seemed like it was moving a couple clicks each time, so I thought it was making progress. Then we heard a pop and saw this crack in the thick metal knuckle that the end goes through. Oy vey. How bad is this? What is that metal piece called, and what is it attached to? I did not think we were pulling hard enough to break that thick piece. :-O

I guess it is just called the steering knuckle, based on what I see online, looks like this part: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1990246&cc=1383421&jsn=397&jsn=397&jsn=397 would you agree?

I know that is beyond my DIY ability. In your opinion, is it safe to drive it this way (like fifteen mph, going about three miles max to the mechanic in town) or do I need a tow? It is not cracked through the back, my brother thinks it might be okay to drive very slow for a little ways. Or is that going to cause more steering problems?

Hello,

No do not drive the car, this is bad and could break completely. The part is called spindle and you can replace it just support he the lower arm with a jack and release the ball joints. Here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-release-a-ball-joint

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

You vastly overestimate my DIY ability, good sir. :-) I have hardly any tools and had to borrow some just for the tie rod end. Anyway I did end up driving it on Tuesday, as I said very slowly, about two miles across town to the tire place which replaced the knuckle for me. So all is well now. Thanks for all your help though, I will definitely be coming back here when I have more car questions!

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken