Ticking/rattling noise under hood after acceleration stopped?

It sounds like the battery has shorted out, even though you have charged it up there could still be the problem. Also, can you please upload the video with your response? I can't download anything to this computer. I would turn the headlights on for 10 minutes and then try to crank the engine over. If the engine doesn't crank, I would replace the battery. Here is a guide to help us and I have included how to change the battery out in the images below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Did you have any warning lights on before the problem? If the battery is okay let's run the codes to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Check out the images (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Thank you, Ken. The video can be played without downloading it. Just click the smaller image at that link, the one that has the icon of a movie camera. It will play right in your window like a YouTube video. (Ignore the large "download" button and go straight to click on the small image.) The file size is over 30 MB, so it is too large for me to upload.

The car engine cranks. And I moved the car (forward and reverse along my driveway). The battery is 3 years old. I will try your suggestion to see if the battery drains if I leave the headlights on for 10 minutes. (I took the slow charge off the battery three days ago / Friday night. Only had it on for about 6 hours.)

I was able to get the videos to upload directly from my phone. The 12 sec one was taken four days after the initial failure. It sounds quieter than it did on day two in the 29 sec video.

Thanks for the video. Oh boy, something went bad. Can we get a video of under the hood while the engine is running? It sounds like the engine has had an internal failure like a broken crankshaft etc. Also, see if you can locate the area of the origin of the sound?

Having a little bit of a snowstorm here in MN. I will try to get a video of under the hood tomorrow. thank you.

Hi Ken,

Attached is a minute and a half video of under the hood while the car is running.

The car sat for three days under a mound of snow. I turned it on and about a minute or two later it shut off. Tried it again and it turned on but died right away.

So, I connected the slow charger and without waiting, turned it on again and it started right away. I then took this video.

I let the car continue to run another 15 minutes or so and the noise continued.

I seem to hear the noise mostly on my left while looking at the engine. You can tell that a little from the video as I move around.

Could this all be an alternator issue?

To recap from earlier, I had an oil change about three days before this noise started. The oil is still full (actually a little over the full line). After the oil change, I had only driven it less than 10 miles before the day it failed. The day it failed I drove it for about 60 miles on the highway when the noise started, and the car stalled out and wouldn’t restart.

So, I can’t help but wonder if the rapid oil change outlet made some mistake. Did they not reconnect the filter properly or something? Is oil maybe not getting to the engine? The oil change was right before Thanksgiving, and they were really crowded, and they had me in and out in less time than usual. I remember commenting on that at the time (I was out in about 15 minutes, including paying, vs about 20-25 usual time).

I wiped the oil on a cloth, and I thought maybe it didn’t look as clean as it should have for a recent change. But it wasn’t that dirty either.

As the earlier video I uploaded the other day shows, there are no concerning lights that are on while the engine is running.

Also, I did not try stepping on the gas this last time. But earlier in the week, the car did move when I drove it up and down my driveway.

Thanks

Thanks for the video. That does not sound good, I hear the valve trains noise then it stops and is replaced by a deep engine noise, even though it is running smoothly. I am going to ask other experts if they have heard this noise before. Also, I would try replacing the oil with quality engine oil that is the correct weight for the engine and also change the filter.

Https://www.2carpros.com/questions/ticking-rattling-noise-under-hood-after-acceleration-stopped

check the video on this, I have never heard the second noise, I have heard the valve train noise but then it stops and starts a low knocking noise. Any ideas?

Not familiar with the noise but it sounds like it's timed to the camshaft.

I couldn’t get anyone to come out today to change my oil at home. Is it safe to drive 2 to 3 miles to my nearest service place that can do it?

I did get a delivery from Amazon for a diagnostic code reader. Three images attached. P0420 is the only error code about the catalytic converter. But I would doubt the cat is causing the issue.

Thanks

Hi,

I listened to the video, and it certainly is different. At first, the noise is valve train related. The deep sound is odd. It seems almost too slow to be anything in the engine, but at this point, anything is possible. Does the deep sound (sounds like a heartbeat) speed up with engine speed?

Also, I want you to remove the serpentine belt and see if that changes the sound. Only run it for a short time with the belt disconnected to see if the sound has gone. For some reason, it is sounding like a belt. Not one that is slipping, but rather like it is being plucked like a guitar string. LOL Also, if you have an automotive stethoscope, see if you can pinpoint where it seems to come from.

If there is no change with the belt, we need to remove the valve cover and timing chain covers to see if we have an issue with a chain tensioner, the chain, or one of the variable valve control sprockets or actuators. If this is the case, using a stethoscope, the noise will be loudest at the timing chain cover and the front of the engine valve cover. See pic below.

Let us know

Joe

See pic below.

Attached is a video of the sound when I rev and don’t rev the engine. Sound definitely increases when the gas is pressed. Also, when not pressed the sound seems softer than it did on day 1 and 2.

I do have an auto stethoscope (thanks to Amazon same day delivery). Can’t say that it sounded too different on the left vs right of the car. At times it sounded like a low bear growl or snore (not that I really know what bears sound like) and at times it sounded like water gurgling. (I really have no idea)

I am not skilled to change my own oil or serpentine belt. I called a local auto shop and asked if it were the timing chain how much would the repair cost and they said around $2,000. Does that sound about right?

It is a 2012 with 167,000 miles. The cost is cheaper than buying a new used car, but can’t say that if I fixed it I would ever trust driving it out of state again (400-500 miles one way). Or would the fix make it good enough for that?

Thanks for all the help. I like having possibilities narrowed before taking it in to a shop.

Hi,

I wouldn't run it anymore until it's checked. I listened to the new video. If I had to guess, there is an issue with either a camshaft, lifter, or a variable valve timing pulley, or a rod bearing ready to come apart.

Here is the thing. This engine has more or less a recall due to connecting rod bearing failure. If this is the issue, you may need to discuss things with the manufacturer because they extended the warranty to 15 years or 150,000 miles. You are above the mileage.

I have a feeling this is the likely noise I am hearing on the last video you provided. However, you would need a dealership to confirm it. Is that something you would be comfortable doing?

Let me know.

Joe

Thank you. I just googled the recall. It seems notifications went out Jan. 2021. I was already over the 150,000 mileage by then given the car had barely moved during the pandemic.

I did have it towed to a nearby auto shop this morning (not a dealer) and they confirmed it was not the serpentine belt or timing chain and was likely a rod issue. They said $7k-$8k for a new used engine that has around 50k miles. ($150 for the diagnostic and used up my tow).

If a dealer would be less, around $2k, I'd consider it. (I'd have to pay to tow with the next move, as well.)

If more than $2k is the cost, then I guess it is time for me to buy a new (used) car. I'll take recommendations for anything 2016 or newer that doesn't have engine recalls. (Happy to start a new thread if that's something you all can recommend.)

Thanks so much for all the help. I've learned a lot in this process.

Hi,

When I heard your last video, that is what I suspected. You know, it wouldn't hurt to contact the manufacturer and let them know you were hearing a noise for a long time before it failed and if the recall had been sent out earlier (this is an old problem) the repair would have been done under warranty. They are replacing engines at I believe no charge to the customer. It would be worth trying.

Let me know what you decide.

Take care,

Joe

Okay. Worth a try to contact the manufacturer. I'll let you know if they bite.

Good news Joe! I used the url below to Hyundai's recall site and contacted Hyundai. They are going to give me all three open recalls, which includes the rod bearing/ engine issue. I have attached the recall campaigns that populated at this url per my VIN:

https://autoservice.hyundaiusa.com/campaignHome

They scheduled my appointment with a local dealer for Dec. 16. I asked twice if I am completely covered given, I am beyond my warranty and given the number of miles on the car and she confirmed, no charge because it's not my fault. I never went into any detail about any issues I have seen.

Thank you all so much! I'll try to update you again after Dec. 16.

That is good news, let us know what happens.

As an update, I just heard today from the services department at the Hyundai dealer that they received final approval from the manufacturer and will begin the repair work on the engine. No charge to me (though they told me it is about $7,000 worth of work). Presumably OEM parts, which I hope would mean my engine would be like new vs like one that has 167,000 miles on it. Thanks again for this idea. I'll check back in once I receive the car back from them. They said it could still take a couple weeks.

Hi,

Thank you for the update. That is great news. Also, if you look at the section under remedy in the pic you attached above, you are getting a new engine plus several other things.

Let me know if there is anything I can do to help or if you have questions.

Take care and enjoy.

Joe

Hi Joe, Ken, et al. I got my vehicle from the dealer repair shop today. It drives like new! Attached are images of the repair list showing what they completed. Everything at no charge, covered by the recall, except for a right front axle boot/shaft, lower ball joints and a $120.00 wheel alignment. I'm sure I paid premium on those since it was a dealer. But overall, you helped save my car and thus saved me money. So, thank you again.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. Wow!!! This is good news. Now, the engine is new, and you should have no issues with it.

I'm really glad to know you got it under warranty. I had a feeling you would.

Please feel free to come back anytime in the future. You are always welcome.

Take care and enjoy.

Joe

PS: I'm sure Ken would be saying the same. LOL

I spoke too soon. I got the car back on Saturday. It would not start on Sunday. I got it jumped and was told to let it run. So, I didn't turn it off as I ran errands. Went back home. Monday morning it wouldn't start. So, Monday evening I got AAA out to jump it (I have a 13-month-old AAA battery). They said maybe it is the starter, but let it run. I let it run for two hours. Tuesday morning it would not start. When I picked it up from the dealer repair shop on Saturday, they already had it on and running before I got there. My email to you is first. Next is my phone call to them. Sigh.

Hi,

When the work was done, they could have pinched a wire causing a draw on the battery at all times. Also, the battery itself may be bad, but I doubt that would have happened after the work was done, but anything is possible.

You indicated they had it running at the dealership when you got there. Did they provide any results or ideas?

Also, did you attach an email and other dealer info above? I ask because it didn't come through.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi, I did not make any attachments to the earlier email from today, nor this one. Only the one on Saturday. I am not naming the dealer just yet. I don’t want to prematurely throw them under the bus. Let’s see if they resolve the issue without charging me. Then I can name them.

The day I picked it up from the recall service, they didn’t say anything, and I didn’t ask any questions. I signed the paperwork, and my keys were already in the ignition, turned on. They brushed the snow off and I was on my way.

When I called today about the issue of the car no longer starting, they were sincerely apologetic and asked to get the car towed back into their shop right away. They sent their service out to get it (it was after hours), so I suppose I will hear something on Wednesday or Thursday as to what they think is wrong.

It's good to know about possible pinched wire. The AAA battery is under a six-year warranty, purchased November 30, 2021. Full replacement if anything goes bad with the battery.

I will update you once I know more.

Thank you again.