Code 1130?

Hi,

Also, the code is specific to a faulty swirl valve which certainly affects the idle. This system has a swirl control valve in the intake passage of each cylinder. While idling and during low engine speed operation, the swirl control valve closes. Thus, the velocity of the air in the intake passage increases, promoting the vaporization of the fuel and producing a swirl in the combustion chamber.

I attached diagnostics below. However, before starting, check to see if there is a vacuum leak to the control valve (see pic 1 showing it being tested with a vacuum gauge).

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Thank you for responding. Great info. I replaced the idle control valve attached to base of throttle body I believe that is the same as the swirl valve. After replacing it I never thought about checking the vacuum to it. I also bought a smoke machine to try to look for a bad intake gasket that I replaced a year ago, but apparently there’s no leaks. I’ll try all the info that you sent me. It might take me throughout this week to do all that. Thank you for your time I’ll keep you posted. Mark

Hi,

No problem whatsoever as to how long it takes. I'll be here. LOL Also, the idle control valve and swirl valve should be two different things. Take a look at what I circled above.

Keep in mind, something may be blocking a vacuum hose, so you may not see a leak, but vacuum may not be present.

Take care and good luck,

Joe

Okay Men. Appears I have 2 swirl valves. One valve on the driver's side of the Throttle body and the other is on the front side of the throttle body. The side valve has no vacuum at idle. At high rpm’s about 12lbs. I connected the vacuum pump to valve it won’t hold vacuum also checked voltage at plug. 13.75 volts.
Second valve no vacuum at idle or higher rpm. 14.5 volts. Using vacuum pump, the valve holds vacuum for about 30 seconds. Your thoughts? thanks again.

P1130 - Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve: This code suggests that there is an issue with the control solenoid valve for the swirl control system. So, I would do what Joe's says and use vacuum on the valves to make sure they work correctly, then I would check the vacuum line routing, here is a guide to help you. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Okay Men. I believe i have been miss leading. I sent a picture of what i thought was the swirl valve. Now i am a Little confused. The valve in the picture is identical to the one that’s still in the truck. This one connects to this swirl valve actuator. No vacuum from actuator. Kind of lost now on what to check. Thanks again

Hey, one more thing. When I did the leak/smoke test the eg transducer leak smoke won’t hold vacuum is this normal? Thanks

Hi,

The pic you attached is the control solenoid valve. That should have a vacuum supply to it from the engine at one port and the other connector port vacuum hose goes to the control valve. Anytime the engine speed is below 3200 RPMs, the control valve should supply vacuum to the swirl valve.

If you have a vacuum leak at the control valve (your pic above), it needs replaced or you have a damaged or disconnected vacuum hose.

Let me know if this helps. Also, the swirl control valve should hold vacuum. If it doesn't, it needs to be replaced as well.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hello. Sorry for slow response. I purchased a new swirl control valve just came in. Tried to install it having a problem, trying to get the two Phillips screws that hold it in to the intake removed Tried making a special tool to remove not going well. I think I’ll have to remove the intake manifold to complete. I’ll update you when complete. Thanks

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. Take your time. I'll be here. Also, let me know if there is anything I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe

Good morning. I found a brand-new swirl valve on eBay. After removing the old actuator, I started the truck and manually opened and closed those butterflies on the intake manifold. that the actuator would attach to. It really had no effect on which way I turned the shaft opening and closing the butterflies. To make it idle I would have to close half of the throttle body off with a piece of tape for my hand. Your thoughts. Thanks again

Hi,

What did you have to tape? Also, did you create an engine vacuum leak when you did this? Let me know.

Joe

If if I tape off half of a throttle body opening it idles perfect. I plugged the vacuum line that runs the swirl actuator valve. Is that what you were meaning? Thanks

Hi,

If you cover half the throttle body and it runs good, that tells me it's getting too much air to the combustion chamber.

Also, did you replace the control solenoid valve? Is it holding vacuum at this point?

Joe

Yes, I replaced the solenoid that run vacuum to the actuator. I need to recheck the vacuum that’s coming out of that solenoid.

I thought maybe my intake gasket is bad. I replaced it about a year ago. My smoke test only showed the EGR transducer. Which I replaced also.

Yes I replaced the solenoid that run vacuum to the actuator. I need to recheck the vacuum that’s coming out of that solenoid.

I thought maybe my intake gasket is bad. I replaced it about a year ago. My smoke test only showed the egr transducer.which I replaced also

It could be something with the gasket. Take a look through this link. It explains how to check for vacuum leaks. Just be careful when performing it so as to avoid extremely hot areas such as the exhaust manifolds. Also, confirm vacuum from the solenoid.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know.

Joe

Hello Men, in the process of removing the swirl valve actuator the flange on the shaft which rotates the swirl flaps came off, might be nearly impossible to put back on because of where it’s located. Thinking I have to remove the intake manifold again to put that flange on.
I pluged the vacuum line to the actuator and opened up the flaps. Then started truck. No change with the flaps open. Next I sprayed starting fluid all over throttle, body intake, hoses etc. nothing noted. I did a smoke leak test again. The new BPT valve produced smoke just like the old one, so I bypassed it for the test. The only leak I found was a small amount around the MAF sensor. I put a little grease around the O-ring to help seal it better. No change. With all that being said I up for another suggestion. thank you

"I need to recheck the vacuum that’s coming out of that solenoid." this would be the next step.

I was hoping with that vacuum line from the solenoid being plugged. And with the Butterfly flaps open.in the intake that would eliminate an issue with the swirl control actuator. I recheck it thanks.

Yep yep, let us know.