my car shut off while driving?

try draining the oil if water comes out then stop when oil come out water will come out first. then change oil after about a couple hundred miles. Then if no other problems consider your self very lucky as water absolutely destroys the electronics in the car but to be sure these guides will help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-engine-oil-and-filter

Please run down these guides and report back.

Thank you so much! So if there was actual damage then the check engine light WOULD be on?

it could be but there are also other modules that can effect other areas of the car it self like brakes, windows etc. if you start having trouble with something it may be a module is the problem. so wait and see what happens and never ever drive through water moe than tire level deep if you have to go through it.

Would you be able to explain how to drain the oil?

go to our site under how to repair then video then oil change anther are several cars listed there yours will be similar

Two months ago, my car began shutting off while driving regardless of speed (shut off once at 60 mph and once at 25 mph). Anyway, a test came back that our alternator was bad, so we replaced that and have been fine for two months,until now.

I was driving and the car shuts down and turns back on after a five or so seconds. It is good for a couple of minutes and then shuts off again and stays off for ten minutes. I finally get it started and try to make it home-less than ten minutes away, but it continues to turn off and back on, so I call a tow truck so it will not damage anything. The battery and alternator check out fine.

I researched some stuff on Hyundai forums and apparently this is common with most of their models. I read some people had success replacing their crankshaft position sensor, so we did that last night and no luck. After about two minutes of idling, it shuts off.

What could this possibly be?

-Upon shut off, all lights cut out, car stops running and the brake pedal will eventually stiffen up.
-it sputters.
-It occasionally will not crank at all.
-No constant check engine light-it will come on every once in awhile when it shuts off. automatically, but it will not stay on for long.

there are times like this when a problem crops up that must be physically looked at either at dealer or a mechanic so he can hook up a scanner and see what is exactly going on. Your problem sounds to be electrical so it may be a bad connection at ignition switch or the switch itself. I see not bulletins on this check all electrical connections how ever and if you have a volt meter with you when this happens pop the hood and see if any electoral voltage is at under hood fuse box .

engine stoppoing suddenly when fuel gauge in the quarter .after about 15 minutes can be restarted.

have the fuel pump checked for draw it may be drawing to many amps and getting hot. fuel cools the pump you may have to wait until this happens to get it checked. THis guide will help us.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down this guide and report back.

During recent two weeks, my car has been shutting off four times while driving especially when I decreased the speed. Like when I want to park or I stop to rear back. It started working again after many trials of starting. Also, it does not start after about 5-10 minutes after the car is turned off. Like when I go shopping and it takes 10 minutes and I come back to drive my car again. None of the dashboard warning lights is on. I changed the timing belt just recently. The battery seemed to have no problem and also I took my car for inspection and their computer did not show any codes.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Based on the description, it sounds like you may have a crankshaft position sensor going bad. Often times, they will fail when the get hot or warm up. If the car sits for 10 minutes, there is no more air circulating and the sensor will get hotter. Under certain conditions, they will not set a diagnostic trouble code.

Do me a favor, take a look through these links. The first describes the sensor I am referring to, the second discusses symptoms, and the last shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

If there is no code generated, then what needs done is this. Either a live data scanner needs connected to the system to check for an RPM signal when it won't start or you need to check to see if the ignition has lost spark.

Here is a link showing how to check for spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here are a few links to help with checking for spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

__________________________

If it is determine that the sensor is going bad, I attached a pic of the sensor's location to help.

_________________________

Let me know if the symptoms above seem to mirror what you experience. Also, let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe

Hello Joe,

Thank you very much for your comprehensive information. I did what you said and I changed the crankshaft position sensor last week. My car up to now has not had any shutting off problem. However, I've got very bad start since I changed it. At first I could start the car after two or three times of trials. But today it did not start at all. Based on my observations, the engine cranks but it cannot start . Do you think the crankshaft position sensor is the culprit?

Welcome back:

It could be related, but most times a bad sensor will cause issues when the engine is hot. Have you checked the fuel pressure? There could be an issue there. Also, have you checked to see if spark has been lost since it will no longer start?

Here is an easy way to check. See if the engine starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then we know it is a fuel issue. If it doesn't, then we have to recheck for ignition spark.

Since you mentioned the delayed start, I'm questioning if the fuel pump has been going bad and not building enough pressure to start the engine quickly and now has totally failed.


Let me know.

Joe

the engine shuts down with little or no warning. Until three days ago the 5 or so occurances where in hot weather and in stop and go traffic. the first time I had a problem with the car staying in a middle gear. It was stop and go traffic so I had an opportunity to stop put in park.. and try different combination.. although the shifter position was in different spot.. 1, 2, d .. the movement was laboured and indicated a middle gear of some sort.. higher speeds did not change things and I drove it of the highway. The nearest service center was closed and after a while I decided to drive to my destination. the car drove well after that. sometime later I had my regular service center check it and they didn't find any problem codes and besides some regualr maintenance .. (oil change and the common warranty issue regarding links) I was on my way. the next occurrence resulted in me towing it from a busy highway to Hyundia service. Tthey advised it was a speed sensor. It was changed under warranty and tranny flush ( my cost) a day later I was rolling again. This summer I had it stop a couple times more. I was in a position to wait a bit and after an hour it started again. Just this past week, in high speed traffic it did it again. I waited it out and unfortunately it didn't start up. The battery drained and I needed to tow it again. The response from the service center is that the diagnostics didn't produce a probelm code. The technician thinks a bit of corrosion on a sensor on the block maybe the problem, but this unproven theory will cost me $500 as the part has not "failed". They boosted the battery and they say its ready to roll.. going to only charge me partially for the test.. considering the circumstances.. yes.. isn't that great? anyway.. long story short.. the engine seems to stop when it its stop and go / or going well in hot weather. Usually it recovers after a period of time. Any ideas? I"m not a mechanic.. just a frustrated hyundia owner hoping not to have to sell car in order to avoid continued hassle.

This sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor which when they fail will not leave a code but to be sure this guide will help us figure the problem out with diagrams below to show you where the sensor is located so you can check it out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

no one could find out what was wrong with my car (crankshaft sensor) but this post fixed it for me thank you so much whoever you are :)

My car will barely go when I try to go and it’ll go 5 miles an hour when it says 20 and right after I get gas my car will shut off while I’m about to drive or it shakes really bad.

More then likely you have an issue with the purge solenoid being stuck open. This is a pretty common issue when this part fails.

Normally this happens when the fuel tank is topped off or filled when the engine is running. So if you put more fuel in the tank when the pump first shuts off then you are possibly putting fuel into the emission control system and causing this issue.

I would suggest replacing the charcoal canister and purge valve and see if this issue continues.

my car stalls and and runs a bit rough after refueling. After a few minutes it runs fine. I've changed purge valve and fuel pump. Still have the problem. Any ideas?

This is a common issue when the evaporative emissions system has raw fuel in it rather than vapor.

Basically this system is designed to take the vapor (hydrocarbons) from the top of the fuel inside the tank and route it to the engine to use as additional fuel rather then venting it to the atmosphere.

This system is only supposed to have vapor in it but when the charcoal canister gets raw fuel in it, it breaks down the charcoal and that damages the purge valve. This allows more vapor and fuel in to the engine then it can handle and the PCM cannot adjust for it so it runs rich. This means there is too much fuel in the system and it runs poor or doesn't start.

Let me know if you have questions and we can go from there. Thanks

Thank you, I did replace the purge valve. And also fuel pump. Is there any other reason there could be for this problem?

Yeah. It is the charcoal canister that I mentioned. More than likely that has raw fuel in it. If that is the case then every time the purge valve opens it is allowing too much vapor in.

When you fill the tank now it is forcing even more vapor in the canister and it can't hold anymore so it is pushed into the engine. I would suggest removing the canister (circled) and shaking it and seeing if you hear fuel in it. Then replace that and the CCV on the side of it.

Car keeps dying after short trips. What's the cause of it.

If the stalling occurs only slowing down, ie accelerator released, that would mean excessively low idling speed.
Is the Malfunction Indicator Light showing?

I’ve had my car since March, I bought it from the second owner. Since I bought it it’s given me issues with stalling and flashing check engine, check fuel cap and the oil canister but only when stalling or shutting off. It does it while driving. I’ve done the machine readings many times giving me many causes all I’ve replaced (sensors, fuel filter, ignition switch and 4 coils, belts, spark plugs) I’m not sure what it can be anymore and now when shutting off the oil canister and battery light come on. Any ideas? I’m stumped

Hello,

Is your Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or "check engine" light illuminated? If it is can you please pull the Direct Trouble Code(s) for us. You will need a scan tool to do this, and if you are unfamiliar with how to do it, here is a link for you to go to:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please go through the guide, if needed, and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

The lights are not consistent, when the car stalls the lights come on but once the car is shut off and turned back on it does not show the lights until it stalls again. Which also means we are unable to get a code.

Hello again,

Not all of the warning lights, just the "check engine" light. Is that light illuminated?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarsPros

No , the oil canister and the battery lights appear on the dash when the car stalls.

Hello again,

Okay, this could be a problem with your vehicle's Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) starting to fail. Your vehicle's Power-train Control Module (PCM) or "computer" uses this signal to determine where the engine is in it's 4 stroke cycle. It the turns on the fuel injectors and makes the spark plug spark accordingly. The sensor when starting to fail, will usually do it when it gets warm. Here are a couple of links below for you to go to:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

In the diagrams down below I have included the description of operation as well as the location of the CKP for your vehicle. Here is a link for you to go to on the removal and installation of the CKP:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

When I test drove this Hyundai, I noticed a problem when it went up long hills; it slows down to a crawl and then will not go past 40 kmh for a while, and then the brakes seize when I stop the car at an intersection. Then the car bucks and leaps when I press on the gas, makes huge crunching noises. Have seen smoke coming from wheels. The previous owner said he fixed the problem, but obviously not! And now he has disappeared. Any advice? It feels dangerous to drive it this way, but I have limited funds and would like to take it to the garage and at least have some intelligent request. Is it the ABS brakes? Could it be the caliper?

Hi,

I don't think it has to do with the ABS, but rather. it sounds like the brakes are stuck in the on position. Since you saw smoke, that sounds like they are overheating. It could be a caliper is frozen. If you can, safely lift one wheel off the ground at a time and see if you can turn the tire. Do this and let me know what you find. Also, let me know if it was one wheel or more than one you saw smoke from. By the way, that would be the first one I would check.

Let me know.

Joe

I did end up taking it to a local shop. Their best guess was that the brake fluid was contaminated at some point in the past, and now it has mucked up the system to the point that the brakes seize after 10 minutes of driving. He showed me the damage to the seal under the cap (it was swollen and discolored, had ripped) and where the heat discolored the brake pads. Too dangerous to keep driving, he said, and a progressive problem, that will only get worse over time. They told me I would have to replace the entire brake system, to the tune of about $1,500.00 CDN, which is what I paid for the entire car. So not sure if I'm going to go ahead with it, but does that sound like a possibility to you?

If the brake fluid was contaminated, yes it is possible. However, that price is a bit crazy. What exactly is that amount in USD? If that is the problem, it will be a lot of parts to replace, but none of the steel brake lines would need replaced, just flushed. In my mind, I can't imagine parts being over 500 USD. I can provide you with the directions for replacing everything they told you, so if you want to do it yourself, let me know.

Joe