Engine shut off while driving and will not start

Good afternoon.

The fuse failing tells us you have a short circuit somewhere and that fuse controls the fuel pump.

I would disconnect the fuel pump at the tank and see if the fuse still fails.

Never, never, ever use a larger fuse than what is called for the circuit.

The connector is at the right front of the tank.

Here is a video to help you change the pump out.

https://youtu.be/Lhd0vd8pdBU

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl Automatic 150000 miles

My 99 Chevy Caviler will not run. i have replaced the ignition switch and it has not helped. whenever i turn over the car, it will crank, but time youlet go of the key it shuts off. Also, the previous owner put another ignition cylinder(tumbler) in it. it fits fine, but only has two wires (i guess for a light) instead of the three the original had. Any suggestions? Thanks.

firstly check the fuel pressure and check for spark. we have to rule those out first. even though it may seem to point in another direction, these two components are the basis for an engine to run. check your inbox. after you read this for some instructions

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Thank you for your reply! okay, i haven't checked them yet, but i felt i should tell you i did search a code machine while it was cut on, but obviously not running. the code came up P0335, which in the book is "crankshaft a position sensor circuit error". does that help in any way, or should i still check these things?

thats good, that means either the crank sensor is bad or the computer is not communicating with it. first thing you need to do is replace the crank sensor

okay, so that would fix the problem? i see the crank sensor is very affordable (around $10), but i dont know where it is located on the car. could you please explain, or maybe tell me where i could look?

well i switched the sensor. and it still does it. so i went to checking the first stuff, and realized i dont have any fuel pressure, but i can still hear the fuel pump running.

ok, I think, that, we need the correct ignition switch before we go any further, anytime you have an extra wire, whether its for a light or not ,its not the right switch. for all we know the extra wire might belong to a ground and the light. so. I think we need to take care of that first

its funny you say that...i have put the new sensor in it, and replaced the fuel filter. i then found on the internet where the theft system on it must be reset with the right type of key or it cuts the fuel off.

right, I hadnt thought of the alarm/immobilizer, till just before I wrote the last post. that person cannot just put anything in there because it fits.

i agree. however, i was wondering, do you know if i need to get a specific ignition cylinder specifically for a 2.2L automatic, or are they not that picky?

the correct thing to do is, go to the parts store, and tell them your exact vehicle, and they will give you the correct. switch.

i agree. thank you. but last question, do you know when i do get a new one, how much the chevy dealer would charge to reprogram it the key to the computer?

never mind. i bought the ignition cylinder and reprogrammed it, and it runs fine now. Thanks for your time :)

stalls at lights , sometimes. lacks power. sometimes gets fualt code P0171, changed fuel filter,fuel injectors,fuel pressure regulator,air filter and checked spark plug gap (.050 ) to the best of my knolage , the fuel pressure is good. It will do this hot or cold , but not every time*#%&&^$.

This is tough without a scanner to monitor the fuel trim, so....

Check for any vacuum lines that are weak, collasped or cracked. Check the pcv valve to be sure it is tight and the pcv hose is good.

Check the o2 wiring for a possible wiring the may have been damaged.

Remove the iac motor and clean it.....before that try cleaning the air induction system. That is scrub out the throttle plate and clean it, and run cleaner through the vacuum line going into the motor...ask if your not sure on this.

my car feels like it is going to stall but i have had the alternator and the battery tested and they both test fine what could this be and could it be linked to why my factory and my aftermarket stereos displays were fading in and out

is there a check engine light on? it could be a number of things like needing a tune up, low fuel pressure, a bad Idle air control motor.

no there is no check engine light on, a mechanic told me that it could be my pcv, egr, valves or even my throttle body is clogged. let me know what i should check first and what is the least expensive way to go..

check your plug wires and egr first. also look for a vacuum leak

Replaced fuel pump now car will crank but will not stay running.

Hello, I'm Danny.

I would suggest to retest the fuel pressure.It's possible you may have bought a defective fuel pump.If you don't have access to a fuel pressure tester your local auto parts store have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Your car specification shows the pressure to be 41-47 p.s.i. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

Today while driving my car stalled and I rolled to the side of the road. When I tried to start it, i had no lights now power what so ever. It would not turn over it was just dead. I wait a few minutes tried again. Nothing. I wait longer and tried to start it , the lights came on and it start. What could be the problem.

Take it to any autoparts store and have the charging system tsted for free, this includes battery, alt., alt. ripple, alt. amp output and starter draw.

Check all battery connections and make sure they are clean and tight.

Other possibilities are ign. switch.

i have a 1999 chevy cavalier and it shorts out and shuts off when i pull out of my driveway in reverse. also all dash lights come on abs,check engine seatbelt etc

Does it short out or just shut off? All the lights will come on if the engine shuts off. Perhaps the vehicle is not running very well and the rpm is too low when you put it in reverse. Have it checked out at shop to see.

I have a 99 chevy cavalier and it turns over and runs just fine for the most part, but sometimes it dies randomly. Its weird because to turn it on all i have to do is connect jumper cables to the battery terminas. I dont need another car to get it to start, as if there were a short or something. It dies sometimes when i turn it off.today for the very first time it died while driving which was crazy... when it dies it makes like a tick tick tick noise ...

Sounds like you need to clean and tighten the battery cables. GM's side post design is not very friendly or easy to get high current through so they have to be maintained. Also, due to the generator design, they develop huge voltage spikes that can destroy its internal diodes and voltage regulator and they can interfere with computer sensor signals. The battery is the key component in dampening and absorbing those spikes. With a poor connection, those voltage spikes could be confusing the Engine Computer.

It is common to go through four to six replacement generators in the life of the car. If it fails, to reduce the number of repeat failures, replace the battery at the same time unless it is less than about two years old.

Hi and thank you for replying, okay so your saying to disconnect and clean the terminals and battery itself right ? and if the problem persist to try a new battery ?

My comment about replacing the battery is something I include for future reference for all GM car owners for '87 and newer models. The generators are a real common problem and the aged battery is the solution to repeat generator failures. As the batteries age, they lose their ability to dampen and absorb those harmful voltage spikes.

In your case the jumper cables were the clue. They will put tension on the connections by their very nature of being a stiff wire. With the better connection, that's why the engine will crank. Start by taking the cables off, (remove the negative one first because if the wrench hits the metal of the car, nothing will happen. If you take the positive off first or put it on last, and the wrench hits the car, you'll have a serious spark issue. Sparks can lead to a battery explosion from the hydrogen gas they give off). Scrub the cable ends and battery terminals with a wire brush to shine them up. If you see excessive white corrosion that looks like cauliflower, that is a sign the battery is about to fail within the next six months to a year, so you can be justified in replacing it. There are a lot of chemicals and coatings for that corrosion but none can address the underlying cause of the imminent battery failure.

I cleaned the terminal there a definate improvement in the battery charge i had autozone check. Thank you very much well see if that fixed the problem ill keep you posted . I really appreciate your great advice .

stalling about four months ago I had my chevy in the garage and the mapp sencor was changed and it ran good, now it is doing the same thing again, it starts up and stalls out. it will run when it heats up but then it's like it is not getting any gas

If the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned to identify if the map is bad again. If there is no light, check for vacuum leaks and check the idle air control valve for function. Either of these items could cause it to stall at idle.

some times the engine light is on and then it goes off, sometimes when the light is on it will idle pretty good and then the fan turns, after they changed the mapp senser it was running good but after that it was heating up alot and i did not think any thing of this can heating burn out the mapp senser?

The map didn't cause the overheating. It sounds like a bad sensor at some point. You need to have the computer scanned to identify which one is the problem.