Stuck in Park (plus mystery Electrical Connector, likely related)?

Pics as mentioned.

Does it have adjustable pedals? The part broken off of the ignition switch is the PATS transceiver and the car will not start without it. Also, it the ignition switch does not shut off or on fully the park will not come out of park. Fuse # 11 goes to the brake pedal adjuster so that may have something to do with it. I would unplug the brake pedal adjuster and see if the fuse still blows. Let me know so we can continue. I would replace the ignition switch (tumbler) and the PATS transceiver, and we can go from there.

Ahh, PATS receiver! I had a locksmith out to the house a few months ago and my wife said he broke some "little black thing" off and said only 1 of 2 keys he made would start the van, the other would be only for door tailgate, sort of valet.

It has started just fine since then, up to and including today, just won't shift out of park (but I can also start in neutral and then drive fine, minus rear lights).

It does have adjustable pedals and ironically, I feel like all issues started the day I randomly noticed them and adjusted up and down a couple times

I will go unplug the adjustment circuit specifically in just a bit, and honestly it basically almost has to be because last test I unplugged REM, unplugged brand new tested brake pedal switch, and unplugged brake/cruise pressure deactivation switch and it still blew (though I have not once adjusted pedals since that one day one time, all that is left as I can see is the shift interlock, the adjustment circuit , *though they're actually mot specifically listed on my diagrams just the other 3 items (REM, brake switch, shift interlock) but it stands to reason with those 3
unplugged something is still tripping #11. I will note one weird thing, with them all unplugged 11 didn't blow immediately as all the previous times, it seemed to not be until I tried the windows or lock from master and then once 2, 7, 8, 13 (top of head) try and energize from SSP relay #3 and #4 then it blows... Not sure if this info helps but figured it may.

Finally, since starting is not an issue, literally first time every time, should I still pursue the new tumbler? My only worry is having to have some new PATS situation programmed but I am here to get it fixed and frankly to learn so will of course defer to you Ken.


Thanks so much for now and I'll report back, briefly, once I unplug adjustment circuit.

Yes, if the ignition key seems to work you can leave it. The shift lock is powered by fuse #11 so if we figure out why it keeps blowing the shifter will start working again. I would look for a short in the trailer plug wiring if it has one as well. A short in the brake light bulbs can cause this as well. Here are the wiring diagrams for the shift lock. Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes.