still shutting off while driving

Hello,

It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor has given out which will not give you a trouble code most of the time here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job and the location of the sensor below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Here is the sensor locations for both engine just in case.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers

Thank you so much I got the sensor $46.00 and the car has never run better. I love this site.

my car will shut off when driven awhile and later starts up when it sits for a short period. Can I get money back even though its been only two weeks and I bough it as is

I dont know if you can get your money back. but if you bring the car back to them, they will mostlikely fix the situation, I dont think it is as serious as you may think. several things could be causing this, but I would first consider the crank position sensor, oldsmobiles tend to have this problem a lot. however, every car can have this problem

there is no check engine light,but last time I had to jump it to get it running because something was draining the battery and I had to tap the fuel pump to get it running

strange, check the fuel pump relay, I will also give you something that will show you how to check for a parasitic drain. I still suspect the crank sensor, but now with the new info, I also suspect something to do with fuel too. like the pump. I would check the fuel pressure and spark. too, this will determine which direction to go.

Today when I drove on the free way at about 75mph, engine rpm was about 2200rpm. the engine suddenly shut off, at first the engine rpm shaked between 1000-1500 rpm for 1-2 seconds, then shut down to zero.

It happened last Dec. when I drove on the free way, exactly the same way. but after I tried to start several time, about 20 minutes later, it can run and and I drove it well while nothing wrong with it until today.

Today, I tried to start again, it seemed that the ignition worked and engine run to 200-500 rpm, shaked and dropped to zero again. I tried several time. the engine still won't work. I asked AAA to tow it to a local shop, at the first shop( it is a junkyard), one person tried to start( about 1.5 hour later), won't work, he asked me to tow to their another shop. 20 minutes later, we reach another shop. this time the car can start!!(about 2 hours away from the time the engine shut down), amazing!. After diagnosed the car, the mechanics can't tell me the exact problem and his suggestion was to change a crankshaft position sensor.(He though maybe the sensor was overheated and shut down the engine. but after it cooled down, it will not affect the engine). Since I am in a hurry, I declined and paid him the diagnose fee. And drove all the way down home ( another 150 miles), Now it runs like nothing happen.

Btw. the mechanics has read 4 codes from engine which were: 1106,1189,1404 and0420. I knew that 1404 and 0420 were always there, and even 0420 was there for more than one year ( the engine light was on for about 1 year), The men tell me that 1106 and 1189 had also nothing to do with the engine shut down.

any idea? thanks

from what your telling me, I am going to have to agree with the bad crankshaft sensor, through knowledge of cars and my own personal experience. when the sensor starts to go bad. everytime it gets hot it will create an open circuit and shut down. when it cools off, the circuit becomes whole again. then opens once it get hot. It will just keep going back and forth untill it gets worse and worse , then your stranded. let me know what happens

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm

i have a 2000 old alero and it wont stay running. It will turn over and idle but it idles low and when i put it into gear and give it gas and release the gas it dies.i have changed the fuel filter and i can hear the fuel pump kick on when i turn the key over. Can you tell me whats wrong with my car?

I would suspect the fuel pump pressure is too low to make the motor run. I would have this checked to verify before throwing on in.

Roy

ok thanks but how would you check that?

you can rent a pressure tester from a parts store to verify. it should be 40-45 lbs.

Roy

ok i dont have the money to rent one.and i figuerd something out every-time i disconnect the negative battery terminal and let it sit for about 20 mins and reconnect it it starts right up and will drive with no problem but when i shut it off and try to start it again it does it all over. would that mean that my fuel pump is going out or could it be something else?

Engine Power was lost while driving on the highway. Steering locked up. After complete stop attempting to restart and it would not. I waited about 10 minutes. It started up with a very heavy rumble. Then about 2 minutes of driving and the engine died again and the steering locked up. I waited 20 minutes this time. It started up, no heavy rumble, made it home okay and here I am. The fluids were find. The air filter and sparks were fine (i just changed them along with the wires 6 weeks ago). Could it be electrical or fuel related? Please advise?

- For starters have the PCM (computer) scanned for codes. If the PCM sees a problem it will store a code that will help in diagnosing the problem, get back with the exact codes. If none are present it may be fuel related. Have the fuel pump checked for good pressure and flow.

Scaned for codes but nothing. I hear the fuel pump kick in.

Need to check for spark and fuel pressure, just because the pump is running doesnt mean it is making enough pressure to run the engine

My Alero starts up with no problems, does not shutter or choke while driving either. After a few minutes of driving it occasionally will try to stall when accelerating from a complete stop(stop signs, traffic, red lights), especially on an incline. I recently had to tighten the catalytic converter to the muffler with some coat hanger wires and a new clamp to hold it in place, and it does not seem loose. I did recently find out I lost a lot of oil after my last oil change. The dipstick indicated the oil barely made it to the letter A in then "Add" portion of Add 1 Quart. The oil change was maybe 2 months ago. I added fresh oil and it seemed to run better, but the problem remains.

Any ideas of a place to start checking/testing? I will be doing a scan at Advance Auto Parts today and bring back any codes I receive.

The car doesn't stall in any gear aside from the first gear and only attempts to stall from a stop/incline. Any information you can provide is appreciated.

This will be updated as I go along.

What is the idling speed when problem starts to occur?
Let us know of any trouble codes after the scan.

Where i would start is getting those codes if any you have.Let me know the exact code numbers you have not code descriptions?

The only code I received was a P0440 code. The rpms stay around 1000 when idling but when it feels like it is going to stall out, sometimes it goes as low as 800 maybe? This is only after driving 10-15 minutes but for the most part it idles steady.
I have noticed a few times as I was braking to a red light, right before it reached the idle 1000RPMS the gauge "bounced" a few hundred RPMS then settled down. I've noticed it maybe 3 times since refilling the oil.

I wrote down everything that the Actron OBD had available so I can fill in any information you might need.

Which engine do you have?

P0440 - EVAP system fault

Seems like the engine idling is not stable all the time and under such circumstances I would suggest cleaning the throttle body and IAC to see if the idling improves and the stalling might go away.

As to the EVAP trouble code, you would need some diagnostics to get it resolved.

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Oldsmobile Alero 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

heres the run down;was driveing the car then parked for a few minutes,went to start again and all it would do is it starts up and runs for about 5 to 10 seconds,i went through the prosses of elimination,the security light is not flashing but it stays on with all the other dash lights,the fuel pump has 55 psi pressure and it only drops by 5 psi,i did the 10 minute wait thing a bunch of times and i did the disconnect the yellow wire on the switch,i even removed both door panels and tied the 2 wires together to what i thought might be the alarm,so heres what im comming up with so far:the fuel pump seems to be fine but if i remove the small hose that is on top of the throttle body between the air filter and the throttle when i spray carborator cleaner in there after or during starting the car it will stay running as long as i keep spraying the carb cleaner in the hole in the hose between the filter and the throttle control,what could it be that is shutting down the flow of fuel to the intake?is there a sensor that can be jumped,something is shutting down the flow of fuel to the engine,the fuel pump stays running,another way i can keep it running is by after starting it as long as i turn it off and quickly turn it back on and keep turning the key switch on and off it will stay running,(edit)i am now going to try the yellow wire thing again i believe i was cutting the wrong one,i cut the small yellow wire that is on the key ignition switch,i am goin to try the one that is in the steering colum the female 3D,if i dont get any help on here i will eventually figure out how to get this 2000 alero to stay running without spending a fortune and if not it will be turned into lawn ornament

You mentioned it held pressure. Are you sure the injectors are getting power? Also, the security light should shut when you turn the key to start. Is it staying on the entire time?

For P0440, check for the following:

Cracked or punctured EVAP canister.

Damaged or disconnected source vacuum line, EVAP purge line, vent hose, for fuel tank vapor line.

Poor connection at PCM.

Inspect harness connectors for backed-out terminals, improper mating, broken lock, damaged terminals, or poor wire connection.

Check for intermittent in circuit.

Check for kinked, pinched or plugged vacuum lines to EVAP purge or fuel tank vapor line. Also check for restrictions.

Faulty or damaged evaporative canister.

[quote="Jacobandnickolas"]You mentioned it held pressure. Are you sure the injectors are getting power? Also, the security light should shut when you turn the key to start. Is it staying on the entire time?[/quote
the injectors get power to start it then after it starts up it shuts down,im geussing the security is shutting it down after it starts (because of the timeing of when initial question was asked) i have tryed other trial and errors,i now have the ingnition switch out and its pretty much destroyed but it still works,i pulled all the timbler keys out and lost all the little springs,but i can still start it as usual,but by asking if the injectors are getting power it brings me to the notion to try to hot wire power to them(any idears?)but yes that im believeing now is where the problem is i just need to figure out what is telling the injectors to shut down,also yes the security light stays on,its been some time and as it stands its now just sitting behind the garage and may end up being a parts doner,but i will keep trying,i cant afford to put hundreds of dollars into something that wont cure the problem as many other folks have done

O I forgot to mention it is a 2.4L engine Automatic transmission. I'll try to get some cleaners today, check the hoses, wires, and terminals as well. I have to do some driving today so I'll make a note if any more errors occur. Going appx 10 miles each way. If any of the wires or harnesses are at fault, will they be easily recognizable as "looking faulty"?

It sounds like the security system. The only suggestion is to have it checked at a dealer. Without the proper test equipment, you'll drive yourself crazy.

Before you go checking all that for the evap leak make sure the gas cap is tight also inspect its seal for cracking/splits etc.

[quote:a3bfc4f236="Jacobandnickolas"]It sounds like the security system. The only suggestion is to have it checked at a dealer. Without the proper test equipment, you'll drive yourself crazy.[/quote:a3bfc4f236] your absolutely correct,This is one for the back burner until spring now,thanks

I'll check that out, I know my gas cap is a bit of a pain to get on, it may be worse than I've given it credit. Thank you for the heads up.

Your welcome thats what were here for.

my daughter has a 2000 olds alero, it's been completely shutting down while she is driving it. We had it checked, and all that was found was a vacuum line was off, it was fixed, yet it's still doing it. Any idea what could be causing this?

This is probably the hardest type problem that you will ever see because it can only be diagnosed while the problem is present and it's not starting. I can give you the steps required to diagnose it if it ever stays dead long enough and you have the tools and ability to perform them.

The information is fine, and understandable, however, once it's stalled, and she tries to restart, it starts and acts fine. As to diagnosing it, I know nothing of the newer cars, and I have no tools. I'm not a mechanic, that's why I paid to ask you. It's hard to try to diagnose it as well, when it's doing it in the middle of traffic.

My daughters Alero (4cyl 2.4, 178,000 miles) also had the same problem. Would stall coming to a stop or when coasting. Rough idle and stumble or stall, sometimes both if you put the slightest pressure on the accelerator when stopped in gear.No check engine light.I eliminated the obvious.I cleaned the throttle plate/housing (very dirty). Had fairly new spark plugs. Replaced the spark plug boots/connectors and fuel filter (original filter!). but still had same problem. Then I saw it! When the engine was at idle the vacuum was sucking the hose to the map sensor closed! Replaced with $2.00 peice of vacuum hose. Problem gone. Still has inherent shaky idle but runs good. Im happy. And solved the problem myself. Sometimes the vacuum hose looks fine at the sensor but is split where it connects to the vacuum port on the other side.

This question is a year old and belongs to someone else. You really should start a new question of your own.

I have a 2000 Alero 6 cyl with 133000 miles on it. When I am driving it will stall out and sometimes start right back and other times it will have to sit awhile before it will crank. I have replaced the fuel filter and check the onboard computer and it showed a code for the cam shaft postion sensor. I replaced it and now it shows all codes passed.
what could be the problem? I have my doubts about the fuel pump. What else should I check?