engine low power?

Hello,

Yes that is very strange, It sounds like when they put the car up on the rack they might of crushed the exhaust system. Is the check engine light on. Lets start by checking for codes.

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hello car will not turn over 3500 rpms in any gear even neutral changed cap rotor plugs wires checked timing fuel but nothing seems to work idles at 900 smooth and revs up to 3500 than stops no matter what gear does not miss please help

the reason why it wont rev over 3500 is because the pcm is in "safe mode" do you have any codes or you have a clogged catalytic converter. This guide will help us find the issue

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

no codes at all even tried to switch computer. what about knock sensor do i need that hooked up?

Thanks for the addition and weighing in. Let us know if we can help you with any questions you have.

Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

My 2009 Honda Civic is running sluggish , transmission has already been flushed and it hasn't improved .What might be wrong and how much will it cost me , took it to the dealer and it was out of their hands (transmission work)

Running problems are an engine problem, not a transmission problem. Even if there is a problem in the transmission, a flush isn't going to fix a mechanical problem. Transmission flushes rarely solve a problem. They are done for preventive maintenance on cars that have a history of developing transmission problems.

We don't get involved with costs here because there's way too many variables. You don't even know what is wrong yet or what is needed.

I've never heard of a new-car dealer that couldn't handle transmission repairs on the brand of cars they sell. They have specialists who receive regular factory-sponsored training and updates as a requirement for having the franchise. They have access to service bulletins and a hot line for help diagnosing elusive problems. The dealer is the top step when no one else can solve a problem, but their remedy could simply be to install a rebuilt transmission.

Independent specialty transmission shops eventually get the same service bulletins, and they are not bound by the limitations manufacturers put on their dealers' service departments. The aftermarket parts suppliers are real good at developing repair parts that are improved to solve recurring and common problems. The dealers are often not allowed to use those improved parts unless they're approved by the car manufacturer. The people at the dealership my elect to send you to a transmission shop when they know that shop has more to offer you when it comes to a lasting solution or a better value.

I have only 17k mileage on my 2008 Honda Civic (4cyl auto). I do maintenace of my vehicle every 5k mileage as per the dealer's instruction. I always find this vehicle to lose power on hills (not much steep). The rpm increase to 3500 at a decent speed also (40mph) w/ AC OFF and the engine starts making noises. Its is impossible to pass any other vehicle on hills. Could you please suggest whats the issue with my car?Or its a general trend for all Honda Civics?

This sounds like you have a clogged cat this guide will help confirm the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down this guide and report back.

Just had a tune up this month but my car isrunning HARD. When putting it in reverse it makes a lid thumping sound. Then when it's in drive its back to a quiet easy running engine. It will not accelerate when pressing on the gas pedal. When In speeds of 45 or more it feels as if something under the hood is moving. One mechanic said it wasn't my motor mounts. HELP! This is my first car and I don't know a lot. Just the basics. Please point me in the right direction. What is going on with my Honda. Thanks HiPockets 56

What do you mean by running hard?
Wta is the idling speed?
Have you checked for trouble codes?

You need a check your engine or overhaul it and tune up for it.

Just got the ignition re-keyed and programmed as well as a new battery. The car cranks and runs but the security light flashes, hazards flash (no horn) and the car refuses to go over 35 mph. What can I do to reset this without having to go to dealer?

Hi,

Since the security light is flashing, my first question is if the reprogramming of the key was done correctly. That light should be off if the car recognizes the key. Have you spoken to the person who did it for you?

Next, what really needs done is to have the computer scanned to identify diagnostic trouble codes specific to the anti theft. Here is a video that shows how it is done:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will do it free of charge. Often times they will either rent or lend one to you if the vehicle isn't running or safe to drive.

I mention having it scanned because there could be many things causing this to happen. There really isn't a reset or anything like that other than if it is done with a scan tool capable of communicating with the vehicle's computers.

I mentioned if it was done correctly because there are many things that can be causing the problem. Not trying to be confusing, but if you look at the two pics I attached, you will see only a few things that control the anti theft. Without a diagnostic trouble code, it becomes a guessing game and I wouldn't want you to replace parts that are good. In all honesty, my first suspect is it needs reprogrammed.

Please feel free to ask questions.

Take care,
Joe

There is not green key icon showing in the dash as to where the key doesn't match. That's what is confusing me. It also cranks and runs (but only up to 35 mph).

A green key is what you need. Did this just happen since the key was replaced?

Joe

Yes, the car ran before it was parked and key was lost.

Hello, I have a code reader, and it is saying misfire on cylinders 3 and 4 as well and high voltage on etc sensors. I have replaced coils and spark plugs. Also, I can start the car and it will rev when I give gas but when I try to drive it will only get up to 10 miles an hour. Idle is a little rough as well. Car overheated previously, and I have also changed the thermostat.

Replace the engine coolant temperature sensor. If it is causing a faulty reading I have seen it cause random misfires. Let us know if that was the issue or if further assistance is needed after.

Hi,

I hate to say it, but it needs reprogrammed to recognize the new key. Have you spoken to the person that did the work the first time?

Joe

my car will not rev past 3500 rpm. im not sure wat it can be ive been told that it might be an o2 sensor, my powertrain control module but i have not figured it out. please help.

Hi Vmontoya,

Is the CEL showing?

Should not be power train as yours is a manual not auto trans.

I suspect a clogged exhaust, faulty O2 sensor or TPS.

i have poor accelration after tiing belt was relplaced, i hit the gas. pede; the rpm is 2000 then te speed just hot up from 0, what seems to be the problem?help"

the cam may be out of time from crank due to improper install of belt or tensioner wasn't changed. also check fuel pressure and scan for codes. also can be cam and crank synchronization.

ok thanks for the reply, I also have problem, with fluctuating temp gauge, change the thermostat clean the radiator fan is working well, but still temp is fluctuating after long hours of driving, temp starts to fluctuate when on idle or on a stop light then when it accelerates it goes down and sometines go on its normal level below half, then goes vise versa,what seems to be the problem?I already put antifreeze but still it goes the same thing.

check radiator when it does this if you feel cold spots rad is no good otherwise get checked for a head gasket leak

ok il try to ask the mechanic about it regarding the radiator issue, if the head gasket is change it will never fkuctuates ?im afraid maybe it will be the same after i changed the gasket, actualy the history goes like this i purchase the car a month ago while i was driving after a week i notice the temp is fluctuating like i mentioned before, so i went to a machanic and they that they need to clean the rad so they cleaned and it overhaul it, so they did it and it was the same, so i went to another mechanic and he said need to open the head, head was open sent so machine shop for repahsing, openned it up but he put the same gasket, after that place a new thermostat, check the water pump, it was fine , fan is working place new plugs, put some antifreeze, and everything is the same as before , no check engine light on it, i went back to mechanic and he told me need to replace New head gasket, do you think that is the culprit?pls help i want to be sure that everything is done properly cause some things that need to replace a little bit expensive. thank you

if you take a cylinder head off YOU NEVER use the same gasket as it's destroyed when the head is removed. get a new head gasket.

I have the car listed above EX model, four door sedan.

The check engine light is on, the immobilizer light is flashing, there is no communication with the scan tool. The tachometer is inoperative, the temperature gauge is inoperative.The car runs sluggishly, no acceleration, engine cuts out (bogs down) at higher rpm's greater than 3,400 (when tachomdeter was working).

DLC test:
With the key on or off and ECM's p31 unplugged from the ECM, and measuring voltage from dlc pin 5 (logic ground for ECM) to chassis ground, I get a nine volt reading. With ECM's p31 plugged into the ECM, (key on or off) and measuring voltage from dlc pin 5 to ground, the reading is zero volts. Why does this happen? Is this normal? How does the logic ground function in relationship to the ECM?

It sounds like you have a bad ground I would check them all by using this guide and the engine PCM wiring diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

ok will do that thank you

I am stuck having to fix this problem myself because neither the Honda dealership and two other shops were unable to fix this. Definitely appears to be some kind of wire (electrical) problem.

Troubleshooting:
Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with a programmed key.
Check to see if the immobilizer indicator comes on.
Does the indicator come on?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Go to step 12 .
Check the immobilizer indicator operation.
Does the indicator come on for 2 seconds, then go off?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 6 .
Try to crank the engine.
Does the starter motor operate?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Check the starter motor.
Try to start the engine.
Does the engine start?
YES - If available, check the Status Log in the Immobilizer info with the HDS (see STATUS LOG ). If the Status Log is not available, the Immobilizer system is OK at this time.

Check the diagram below.

I did find the TPS voltage at the ECM would not measure any higher than ~1.7 volts. I get five volts at the TPS plug, and was able to measure 6k ohms of resistance on the TPS. I was also able to vary the throttle valve and notice the resistance vary on the TPS. I realize the TPS can still be non-linear and still be causing problems. I am having with this car.

Thanks for the accurate wire diagram, I could easily follow out the wires, their color etc. Found the bad ground and got is fixed the car runs great! I love this site.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

To put it simple the ECM (or engine control module) is in limp mode. Get a new or used ECM and ignition with key coded and save time and trouble. Dealers will charge a substantial amount for this work and programming so check with some auto parts stores or eBay. Make sure the ECM and key ring ignition are paired. If you go through auto parts store write down VIN number ,mileage and part number on the ECM. Hope this helps.

Was this issue ever resolved? My car is having the exact same issue. I t is a 2002 Honda Civic two fdoor vetch. It starts runs sluggish especially upon acceleration. The green immobilizer light flashes all the time and the rpm, and temperature gauge's do not work. What do I do?

Hello,

lets start by reading the codes to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

I am having the same problem with my 2005 Honda Civic 1.7 To a T! Car will not scan and those gauges do not work and flashing key light. Did anyone figure this out? Help!

Yes, I would try to do hard reboot of the system. Remove the negative battery cable and then hold it to he positive terminal for one minute this will discharge the capacitors and reboot the system. Here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken