Step by step for rack and pinion r/r?

Yep, you will need to lift the car up onto jack stands and remove the front wheels. Here is a video to help you with that:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLFn_bMkZc0

Also, disconnect the battery before you begin.

Tools / supplies

Floor jack + jack stands (or lift)
Wheel chocks
Metric sockets/wrenches (10-19mm common), extensions, swivels
Line wrenches for power steering lines (highly recommended)
Torque wrench
Tie-rod end puller or pickle fork
Pry bar, needle nose pliers
Drain pan, rags, brake cleaner
Paint pen - scribe (for marking column joint + tie-rod length)
New rack & pinion (verify Type-S vs base), new inner/outer tie rods if needed
New rack bushings (if not included)
New cotter pins
Power steering fluid: Honda/Acura PSF (use OEM type fluid)
Optional but smart: new pressure/return line O-rings / sealing washers (depends on rack/line style)

Plan on an alignment afterward. Even if you match tie-rod length perfectly, it’ll be close-but not “done.”

If your replacement rack is reman, confirm:

Correct for Type-S (steering ratio/valving can differ)
Includes/doesn’t include inner tie rods
Line ports match (pressure/return orientation)

Keep the steering wheel straight and don’t spin the wheel with the column disconnected (you can damage the SRS clock spring).

Once the job is done:

Fill reservoir with Honda/Acura PSF to the MAX line.
With front wheels off the ground:
Engine OFF: slowly turn wheel lock-to-lock: 10-15 times.
Keep topping off fluid as air purges.
Start engine and let it idle.
Turn wheel slowly left/right (don’t hold at lock).
Watch for foaming/bubbles. If it foams:
Shut off, let sit 10-15 minutes, repeat.
Verify fluid level and look for leaks at rack line fittings.

These images should help as well.

Check out the images (below). Please upload an image or a short video in your response, so I can see what's going on.

Unfortunately ive already started disassembly so i cant exactly depict whats happening with a video, but i can tell you I had pretty severe leaks at both inner tie rod boots. To play it safe(er) im replacing the pump and outer tie rods as well.
Thank you for the info!!

Also, any suggestion on removing seemingly rounded off nuts from the cat? Or is my best bet to drop the whole exhaust

Yep, you can drop the exhaust system. If the inner seals are leaking the ack is bad, you can get a rebuilt unit which will fix the problem. the video is how to jack up your car correctly.

I did get a reman. rack and pinion assembly. At this point, im literally exhaust flange bolt away from having the old r/p removed

Nice, yep it is a step at a time, keep at it.