stalls at idle?

try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner. throttle body may be worn with as many miles you state. then check fuel pressure with a gauge it may be low, auto parts rent gauge and you may need an adapter to check it.

See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Should be 43 psi key on.

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down these guides and report back.

Runs fine sometimes. Other times the Engine randomly cuts out then dies if u come to a stop. Doesn't matter if it's warm or cold.

Hi and thanks for using 2carpros.com

The issue can be caused by many things, so we need to try to eliminate as much as we can. First, when it stalls, does it start right away? When it is running and not stalling, are there any issues with engine idle speed? Does the vehicle need to be fully stopped for it to stall or can it happen while you are still moving? Have you checked for engine vacuum leaks, fuel pressure or is the check engine light staying on while driving?

This problem can be transmission related, idle air control related, fuel pressure related, an engine vacuum leak issue and so on. Let me know the answers to my questions so I can better guide you.

Take care,
Joe

No check engine light. It died when I let of the gas and hit the brake slowing to stop at stop sign. But it cut out jerking just b4. It started right back up and ran ok after that

Welcome back:

Okay, I have one more questions. When it was jerking, did it feel like a vehicle with a manual transmission coming to a stop without depressing the clutch? Sorry, that's the best way I can describe it.

Let me know.

Joe

Exactly like that.

Welcome back:
This can be a few things. My biggest concern... it is related to the transmission torque converter. Since the check engine light hasn't come on to indicate an engine related problem, and it doesn't happen all the time, the first thing I want you to do is check the transmission fluid. Make sure it is clean and full. It should be a redish color. If is good, then I would suggest removing and checking the torque converter clutch solenoid. It is located in the transmission on the valve body and can be accessed by removing the transmission pan. Here are the directions for checking it. Picture 1 shows its location and pic 2 are related to testing.


^ Remove torque converter clutch solenoid valve.
^ Check resistance between two terminals.

Resistance: 10 - 16 Ohms

If this proves good, there may be the start of an issue with the torque converter itself. However, if the solenoid is locked, the transmission will not disconnect from the engine when stopping.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot.

After the engine warms up - lets say 1 minute (idles during this time) then the engine wont idle. The engine runs fine when driving but stops when I decelerate.

Inspect and test the idle air control valve-auxillary air control valve ( IACV-AAC ) and also test the throttle position sensor, also the EGR/PCV valves to include a fuel pressure check

No problem. Let me know how things work out or if you need anything.

Take care,
Joe

tried to start it and it wouldnt replaced computer now it starts but will not idle on its own when we repllaced comp and started it it smoked out of throttle body do i need to buy a new throttle body

Is there still smoke from the throttle body? Was the smoke from the engine (intake) or a component on the TB? How is the engine running?

not sure grandpa was under hood and i was kepping it throttled smells like its flooding engine is missing he adjusted distrubuter and wants me to buy anew tb for it

yes there is still smoke

Can you tell me where the smoke is coming from? Also, were there issues with the TB prior to the replacement of the computer? Have you checked to make sure the fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs and not too high as a result of a bad pressure regulator? The reason I ask is because a TB just doesn't go bad from one day to the next. Unless there was a problem with the TB before the computer was replaced, I really don't think it has gone bad. Rather, something is causing it to dump too much fuel or the new computer is causing issues.

my battery died so i got a jump and then it started smoking and misfired and wouldnt idle. i am pretty sure the smoke is coming from the throttle body. have not checked fuel pressure, will try that. i cant tell that this computer is doing anything different from 1st computer.

how do you check the fuel pressure?

I have a 1991 Nissan Pathfinder, 3.0 engine with 200K miles. It will run fine when driving but when I come to a stop it stalls. It starts fine and will drive again but come to a stop and it will act like it is starving for gas and then stall. It did this several months ago and then it ran fine and now it is doing it again. At a stop I can keep the RPM's up and it will not stall. Any time I push the cluth in and let off the gas the RPM's will drop and it will stall. Thanks for the help.

First try cleaning out the throttle body with some carb spray and a rag. If it still des it the IAC motor might be giving up on you. Any check engine light?

Take a look at this...

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-fuel-pressure-regulator

I though it might be the Idle Control Valve. Is this the same as the Idle Air Control Motor? There is no check engine light. I have read that sometimes it is posible to clean the Idle Air Control Valve. What woud you reccomend?

Bump... Bump... Bump...

I'm also having the same problem. Has anyone figured this thing out? Thanks, lcp