Starts then shuts off

Good evening,

Can you post some pictures of the wire you are talking about for me to see?

Do you have a voltmeter to do some testing?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Roy

Yes, here are the pictures. I didn't know I would get a response this fast. I don't have a voltmeter though.

Wow.

Okay, you will need to get a voltmeter to do some testing. We need to see if the alternator is working.

Is the check engine light on?

Roy

It does not come on.

Okay, you need to either buy a voltmeter or borrow one from someone so we can do some checks and see what is going on.

Roy

I'll have to go get a voltmeter to test it. I didn't expect to get an answer this quick so I didn't prepare.

It is okay.

Let me know when you are ready to do some testing.

Roy

Okay and thank you. I'll try to get one right now.

You are welcome.

Roy

So I can't get access to a voltmeter yet, maybe until tomorrow morning. I do however have this video of what the car does when I try to turn it on. I don't know if this helps at all.

After I turn everything completely off, I hear this kind of clicking noises coming from what seems to be on the relay box behind the battery also followed by one that seems to be coming from under or at least close to the engine.

This sounds like an ignition switch. It starts in the start position and shuts off in the run position.

Roy

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the and isolate the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the dash end cap See: Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Removal and Replacement > Instrument Panel End Cap - Removal.

3. Remove the steering column opening cover.

4. Remove the HVAC control head See: Control Assembly, HVAC > Removal and Replacement > A/C And Heater Control - Removal.

5. Remove the instrument cluster bezel See: Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Removal and Replacement > Instrument Cluster Bezel - Removal.

6. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the Ignition Node Module.


imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print


7. Remove 4 screws from the I/P holding the Ignition Node Module in place.

8. Remove the Ignition Node Module from the backside of the I/P.

This could still be related to the ignition switch.

Roy

Is there a way to check to see if it is the ignition switch before I get the part?

That will be done with the voltage checks we will do.

Roy

Okay, I have a voltmeter. Also I disconnected that wire I showed you on the first picture I sent you. And connected the original and I managed to turn the car on, but after a while it shut off. I recharged the battery and it turned on again and then shut off again.

Okay, check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Tell me what you find.

Roy

Now I can't get it to come on. I have a small 6 amp battery charger hooked up to the battery and every time I turn the ignition the voltage on the battery drops to around 11.7.

Okay, the voltage is 10.5 and keeps going down when it is on.

It went down to 8 and shut off.

Battery is dead. You need to charge it up until the reading is 12.6 volts. That is a full charge.

Roy

I charged it to 12.5 then turned it on and immediately started dropping down and shut off.

What was the voltage again when it started?

Roy

When it was off it was 12.5 but as soon as it turns on it drops to around 10.5 and just keeps going down.

You have a bad battery.

Roy

It's a brand new battery. You think it's bad already? It's not even 3 days old.

Once I turn it off the car, the battery stays at around goes up to about 11.8 and stays there.

If it dropped to 10.5, it is bad.

Where did the 11 come from?

Roy

Sorry, I have been busy so I hadn't had time to work on the car. Okay, earlier this week I looked at it more closely. My dad unplugged the alternator wire from the alternator but left it connected to the battery on a 200amp fuse which has two terminals. I then unplugged it from the battery so that was eliminated completely. I then hooked up another wire from the alternator to the battery at the opposite terminal at the 200 amp fuse connection and it seemed to be working for about 2 days, the only thing is it wouldn't start up in the morning until about the 3rd push of the ignition button. So we got a new fuse to replace the old one and hooked everything back up like normal and it went back to the starting up and immediately stalled.

When you turn on the key, does the theft or security light go out after 10 seconds?

Roy

It turns off within about 2-3 seconds.

Again, the lights? Please tell me about the lights?

Roy

Everything comes on on the dash like normally. no check engine light or anything just the battery light stays on again. but I've been checking it and it stays at around 12.6v.

Okay, let me be more specific.

I am asking you if the theft light or security light comes on and goes off. If it stays on, it is a security issue for the engine cutting off.

If it is not then we need to look somewhere else like the ignition switch.

Roy

Yes, the red security light comes on and then goes away when the engine shuts off.

Okay, when you turn the key to on, not running, does the light stay on or does it go off after 10 seconds?

Roy

Okay. The security light comes on and goes away within 2-3 seconds.


Also when I do that without turning on the car, it gives me a message on the radio screen to enter anti theft code, but only when I push the "start" button on the car without starting the engine.

The radio code has nothing to do with starting the car.

Does it start right back up after it stalls?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Roy

I can keep starting it up and it keeps stalling.

I think at this point you are going to need some help from someone familiar with this system to help.

They will need a scan tool to look at live data to see what is causing the engine to shut off.

Roy