Starter continues to run

Two possibilities. The high-current contacts could be welded together from repeated arcing or the coil in it could be warped from being previously overheated. Those solenoids cannot remain engaged for more than twenty to thirty seconds at a time without time in between to cool down. If someone had a starting problem and continued to crank for a long time, a warped coil can make the plunger stick.

You could also have the wrong solenoid. There were three different designs. One did not use the second small terminal. One had the second small terminal for the neutral safety switch circuit. A third circuit used that second terminal to bypass the ignition resistor for breaker point systems. One of those can become energized by the voltage in the ignition circuit. That current flow is not sufficient to make a magnetic field large enough to engage the plunger, but once the plunger has been engaged through the ignition switch, that smaller current can be sufficient to hold the plunger engaged. Tapping on the solenoid can shock it enough that with the help of the weak magnetic field, the plunger might move enough for the contact disc to turn on and the starter cranks the engine.

If you have that second smaller terminal, unplug it, then see if the solenoid still engages with the ignition switch.

Right now I have the dash board out of the jeep so I can check all the wires and such. Does the ignition switch have to be grounded? Is it possible that this can this cause this issue?

Go with the solenoid!

No idea of its age or hard life. What is $15.00-$25.00 spent on the one you love?

Return with good news or we'll start breaking out wire diagrams

Insure the battery cable and accessories are on one big post all together (A in picture on my Jeeps)

Insure the starter cable is on the other big post- all by itself (B in my picture)

(which big post does not matter, as long as the starter is all by itself on one of them)

I like my Positive cable and accessories on the big post closest to the "s" terminal so that I can crank/ bump the the starter with a screwdriver if need be

The one from the ignition switch will so to small terminal "s" on the solenoid (location C in my last picture), the other wire goes to "I" (which feeds the coil while cranking)(D in pic)

Points?/ Prestolite Ign?/ Other?

Any other non-OEM modifications on your baby?

Here's a picture of my 1977's solenoid.

The Medic

Not likely. I am going to have to dig up a wiring diagram, but from memory of other systems, there is usually one set of switch contacts that do ground one wire during cranking. That is to turn on the red "brake" warning light for the bulb-check function. That does not have anything to do with the ignition or cranking systems.

Roger Doc

That "check" runs through the proportional valve, the "brake light" (in the cluster sort of dims and returns as the engine rotates). I have been told that some inspection points check that on other vehicles, but have no clue that the "sorta flashing" brake light during starting on a Jeep CJ proves the system is fine. The same light lets you know if the emergency brake is on.

The Medic

I am planning on changing out the solenoid today.
I want to add pictures to this post, but it seems like it will not let me.
No other non-OEM's to the motor that I can see. The PO did put on homemade shackles, new ones are on order now.
I am planning lots of new things for this baby, disc brakes, new lift or maybe SOA. Mostly bolt on stuff.

Pictures of old solenoid.

It looks to be wired correctly

The only other possibilities (if the new one don't fix it) Might be a bad ignition switch or a "hot wire" somehow connected or crossed up with "S-WIRE"

Yours being just like factory (positive battery cable and accessories on the right side (bottom in your pic) Starter on the left by itself (top in your pic)

I have mine opposite, you can see my reason in the 1st pic

In your pic on the accessory side (big post on bottom in pic) Looks like some of your wires are fraying out of the "stake-ons"!

The glimpse of the front of your distributor tells me that you have "Prestolite Ignition"

Let us know if the "Solenoid" fixes you up!

Keep shootin' questions if you have any.

The Medic

New solenoid, wired like you described. I've traced the ignition switch wire to the "s" terminal. I also traced the "I" terminal wire to the ignition coil.
Well, same result. Ugh!! But, I have an idea. The ignition switch is new, had to replace it because I didn't have a key for the old one. The connector prongs on the back of the new switch are a little different than the new one. The only thing different is the ground prong, bench the earlier question of the switch needing to be grounded.

Pics of old key switch and new switch

I found the same as your old one at rockauto.com

I found it under a 1974 cj-5

Here's the link

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=936689&cc=1180583&jsn=422

It may be that you can find it local if you go with a '74

Also insure that your starter cable (metal below the ring) is not touching "metal" on the bottom of the solenoid- kinda looks close in the pic

I'd say the other terminal is necessary/ 'specially if this issue did not arise until you tried the new switch

Thanks for the pics they help us a lot! Not too many people post 'em for us.

Link below is a quick way to stop the forever cranking/ even when this is fixed, the solenoid could stick in the future (and they sometimes do) and you are sure not to have a 1/2 wrench real handy. Also makes for a quick disconnect when you are working on electrical stuff. There are other styles. This one is EZ and cheap.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-top-mount-battery-terminal-quick-disconnect-switch-20138/6280536-P?searchTerm=battery+disconnect

Your turn!

The Medic

Thank you for the link on the '74 key switch.
I'll check the starter cable for possible contact like you mention.

Medevac- when did you find that link to rockauto for the key switch?
I'm searching it and the site can't find that part.

Let's see if this one works

Last switch in the "block"

If this don't work, I'll find it after I get home

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1974,cj5,4.2l+258cid+l6,1180583,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

The Medic

1/2 did not link/ paste the whole thing on a new tab/ it works that way!

The Medic

Found it, thank you! New ignition switch is on the way.

Please let us know what happens, we are here to help

New ignition switch arrived yesterday, installed this morning and same result.
I'm waiting on the new solenoid to arrive now, hopefully it will solve the issue.
I am going to remove the starter, clean it, take it to have it checked, and rebuilt if needed.

Have you replaced the battery? I know it sounds weird but when the battery starts to become weak when the starter is engaged, it doesn't have enough amperage to disengage the starter, please try a new battery.

Here is a guide to help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replacing-car-battery

Let me know what you find

Best, Ken

Battery is brand new, I will put it on to charge though.

Okay, what brand of battery is it?

Interstate battery

Can you test voltage on "S Wire" removed from solenoid

Static

then

Using key in "on" position, then "start" (and then release key)--CHECKING ALL VOLTAGES

Seeing if "S Wire" remains energized after key is released?

The Medic

I will definitely test all that and get back with you as soon as I can. Thanks!

Ok! I don't know what happened but when I went to test everything this morning, it started and stopped like it's supposed to. The only thing I did was remove the solenoid from the fender wall and cleaned the mount surface really good. I replaced it and tried it and it works. Yay!!!

We're not gonna let you off that EZ!

Ask more questions!

We still ain't seen a picture of this "Jeep" that you coulda just made up all along!

But really, We are glad you have it running right!

Wave at them other CJs, one of 'em might be me!

The Medic

My toy! I've had it since mid April, spent the first 3 weeks going over everything. The VIN proved I had a '75 CJ5 but was originally built with a 232ci, I6. The engine code proved different, it's a 258ci, I6 from a '78 CJ5.
I think the combination of putting in the new ignition switch, new solenoid, and checking all the connections, is what it took to get her acting right.
My next question was going to be about checking the fire. The spark plugs were out of the motor while trying to get it to turn over (which was the first time starting it since I got it). Before while turning it over and the starter not stopping, I noticed there was not spark. Now that it's doing like it's supposed to, there is spark! Whew!!!!!
Hopefully later today I can connect the new fuel line to the tank, add new fuel, and get her running.
I will keep you informed on how it goes guys.
Thank you, y'all have been a big help.

I have a plan and it's coming along a little slow but I'm making the progress I was hoping for. Once I have her running smooth, my next step is the brakes. Stopping is good! I wanna make sure she stops as well as she runs. After I driver her for a few days or weeks, back in my garage she goes. I plan on a full frame off restoration, with lots of new everything. Paint, suspension lift, shackles, tires and wheels, seats, lights, and much more. I look forward to doing a lot of the work myself including body work and paint. I'm excited and can't wait.

This kind of interaction is exactly what we are looking for, great job everyone! Please use 2Carpros anytime we are here to help.

Thank you everyone for the advise and help!

Here ya go

Look this over

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

It's an old post/ thru-out all of the site design changes over the years the pics remain BIG and the pages are super long/ my early "writings" may sorta be lacking/ I've sorta been wanting to re-write the whole thing in a better order/ better 'splainin'/ better pics

Maybe this will aid you.

Any questions just come back here (this post) or ask for ME on a new one!

I plan on being here, 'less they fire me!

The Medic

Good luck on your project, but please reconsider the lift kit. I can post a copy of previous replies as to why altering ride height on any vehicle is a real bad idea. When I was at the dealership as their suspension and alignment specialist, I was allowed to refuse to work on any lifted truck or lowered car, regardless of what it came in for. The only guys who like them are the lawyers for the other guy who caused the crash.

Got my toy to run today, first time since I've become the new owner of it. I've taken my time with her, busted a few knuckles, plenty of reading and research, and spent a few dollars on her as well.
Hope to change out the water pump, thermostat, and hoses by this weekend. New brakes won't be long afterwards either.

The previous owners did a pretty good job of keeping this jeep from being a total rust bucket. I think I know what changes were done to this old girl but I could be totally mistaken.
One of the PO's had homemade shackles installed, they look very dangerous to me. I plan on replacing the shackles and springs for a smoother ride. I have researched SOA lifts and full suspension lifts, I'm not sure what direction I'll go with that. I do know that this jeep has 35x12.50r15 tires on her now, I like the way it sits. I'd like to keep this look but want to do so with every aspect of safety in mind.
Thanks for your concern and input, it's greatly appreciated.

You are welcome please use 2CarPros anytime

What are your thoughts on temperature rating for a thermostat?
Through Internet research, it seems the 258ci (4.2L) should run between 190-210*. Should I run a 180* thermostat?

Higher temperatures are needed to promote complete combustion and thereby lower emissions. Pistons are oval-shaped when cold. They're designed to expand to a perfectly-fitting circle when at the design temperature. That reduces engine wear. Engine oil needs to be at a specific temperature to be fluid enough for contaminants to be held in suspension to be carried to the filter. Blow-by is burned off and carried out through the PVC system. When the engine is cold, those hydrocarbons condense in the oil and form sludge.

Also, all tests run by the Engine Computer while you're driving have a long list of conditions that must be met before that will take place, and, . . . when a problem is detected during a self-test, there is always another long list of conditions that must be met for that code to set. One of those conditions is usually that the engine is at correct operating temperature. On some engines a code can be set for "Running too cold too long". That code will not turn on the Check Engine light but it can cause some self-tests to be suspended. You can develop a running problem that the cause will fail to set a fault code. It's almost impossible to know where to start the diagnosis when there's no fault code.

The AMC Service Manual says to use a 195 degree stat

I've done that all along (since 1981- 6 CJ-5s) No problems!

I've been doing this for a long time too, look at the end of

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-jeep-other-challlenge-engine-overheating-rapidly-fluctuation-temperature-l/page/2

The 195 gives your heater/ defrost more heat, I have the OEM heater and my own "Sahara Breeze" (uses cooling system water too), 2 heaters are better'n one and temperature is important!)

The Medic