Stalls in drive, rides rough, jerking and shuddering

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Based on the diagnostic trouble codes you listed, this has nothing to do with the transmission.

First, the P0201 and 202 are fuel injector issues with cylinders 1 and 2. The other codes, P0301 and 302 are cylinder misfires. Since the two problems are related to the same cylinders, chances are there is a problem with the fuel injectors on those cylinders. Thus, they are causing a misfire on the same cylinder.

Diagnostics can become involved because either you have an open circuit (meaning power can't make it to the injector) or a short to power (meaning constant power goes to the injector).

Regardless, replacing plugs may be necessary, but will not fix the problem. The first thing I need you to do is check the wiring to numbers 1 and 2 injectors. Make sure there is no evidence of damage, disconnect them and check for corrosion...

I attached a picture of cylinder location. The arrow on the left side of the picture points to the front of the vehicle.

If all looks good as far as wiring and condition, then I need you to test for an injector pulse. Basically, you are checking to see if there is power to each injector. You will use a test light for this process. I will provide directions on how one is used as well as how to check an injector. Note: When you check the injector, the test light should pulse on and off.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Here is another link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

As I mentioned, the cylinder misfire codes (301 and 302) are the result of the injector issue (201 and 202). Once we figure out the problem with the injector, the misfire will go away.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you so much for your reply. We have been diligently trying to figure this out. So far. We replaced all spark plugs. Number one coil packs. Number one fuel injector. Car is still running about the same. Shuts off in drive only. And shifts really hard when it goes. New code today was P0202. The only code. Seems like we're making progress. We are going to unplug the EGR and clean it. We unplugged it and it seemed a little better. Now we are moving to fuel injector 2 and checking wires and replacing if necessary. Is there anything else you recommend? Thank you for your knowledge and help!

Welcome back:
Since you replaced the plugs, that is most likely why the 302 is gone. But that will be short lived if the injector issue isn't resolved. Since you replaced the number one injector and it fixed that problem, chances are the same will fix cylinder number two.

Before going to the EGR, focus on the injector. The EGR won't cause a problem to only one cylinder or injector.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Well, replaced all plugs and two injectors and two coil packs. The new code is showing EGR issues. However, it was not connected at the time. The price is $147.00. I would love another option. My hubby is taking it off and cleaning it well with cleaner and plugging it back in. I drove it for about sixty miles tonight. Running errands. It did great until you stop while in drive. You have to slip it into neutral and give a little gas and slip it back to drive. many times it will stall. It drives great going down the road. Hitting traffic is a bummer. Otherwise, you wouldn't even know there was an issue. No more shakes or shudders. I drove it in manual also and it did fantastic. Just can't keep it started in drive. I feel like we are 90% to the resolution. Could the torque converter be causing any of this?

Welcome back:

Okay, I agree we are almost there. Once you get the EGR back together, check to see if that takes care of the problem. If the EGR is in the wrong position, it can cause this issue. If it doesn't take care of it, check for engine vacuum leaks. Here is a link that shows how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

If that doesn't show any issues, make sure the air intake tube between the air filter housing and the throttle body is attached and tight. If unmetered air gets into the system it will cause issues.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

You're amazing, i didn't know there was a certain way for the EGR. It was cleaned and put back in. Still stalling in drive. Everything else is perfect. You put it in drive and it does. So frustrating. I'll check for vacuum leaks and go from there. The engine light went off though. That's a plus.

Welcome back:

If it is running good and no check engine light, I have a feeling it is a vacuum leak allowing the engine to stall at idle. The idle is controlled by a computer, so it isn't something that can be adjusted. Regardless, check what I suggested. If you find nothing wrong, I may ask you to get your hands on what is called a live data scanner so I can see how sensors and the electronics are reacting.

I do have a question. If you keep you foot light on the throttle and come to a stop, does it still stall? In other words, can you leave it in gear when stopping if you give it a little gas? In one of the earlier posts you mentioned it only does this in drive. Is that correct? Can you put it in reverse at an idle?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

We'll check vacuum leaks first thing tomorrow after work. A live data scanner would be good. Just let me know. It doesn't shut off in any gear except drive. If you come to a red light and forget to neutral it, it stutters and shuts off. Then shift back to neutral.start the car. Give it gas and shift to drive to go. Now, you have to find the sweet spot because too much gas and it stutters. But will progress. All be it rough. Too little gas and it dies and you have to start the cycle all over again. Don't you normally hear a vacuum leak?

Welcome back:
A vacuum leak can create a hissing sound, but are very difficult to hear.

Tell me something. When you are stopped and engine running, if you place it in drive, does it feel like the clutch being popped on a manual transmission? In other words, does it lurch forward even if the engine is at an idle speed?

Yes.

Interesting. That does sound like a torque converter issue. Are you certain there are no other trouble codes? You may need to find someone with a scanner which reads all codes. However, I would think the check engine light would be on.

Is there a place you can go where they may be able to check specifically for transmission codes? What makes this even more confusing is it doesn't do this in reverse. The torque converter doesn't care if it's drive or reverse, so that is what is really confusing me.

What about the torque converter clutch solenoid? Would it do that? I can call transmission places tomorrow and see about running for codes. At the moment, no engine light and no codes. Puzzling.

Welcome back:

Sorry I didn't get back with you last night. Regardless, yes it can cause the same type of problem if it is faulty. Were you able to check for codes?

What is really odd about this is the fact that in drive, the transmission is locked and stalls the engine but not in reverse. The same internal clutch pack runs both low gear and reverse. I know pressure comes to it from different directions, but if it was a hard part in the transmission, it would do it in either drive or reverse. I'm starting to question the torque converter clutch solenoid (TCC). I have a feeling it is stuck in the open position applying pressure all the time. If you can get the codes, it would really be helpful.

Let me know.
Joe