When warmed up while driving it stalls for a second then takes off again

Try a new engine coolant temperature sensor. Sometimes when they go bad they can send the wrong information to the computer then the PCM adjusts fuel trim according to the wrong temperature and thus causing running problems associated after warm up.

I should have added to my question: It will continue to keep stalling every few minutes, then I might be able to drive ten miles before it happens again.

Today I started it and within a minute it idled down and stalled. temperature gauge had not even move yet. do you still think it is the temperature sensor?

No. You said it does not show a code. Is that still true and are you using a scan tool to check for codes or a simple code reader?

It still does not show a code. I am not using a cheap code reader. I am using a scan tool that does ABS brakes and a lot of things, some I am not even able to understand yet.

did you check for codes after that latest stall?

Yes, I checked. Let me add. When this started, I drove to O'Reilly's . At that time it showed a code for MAP. I got a new MAP. no change. They could not clear the code, so that is when I got my own scanner. And when I was there, the parts man said, clean the MAF. I did, no change. New air filter, no change. Next new crank shaft sensor, no change. Next, a used ICM and coils. No change. Yes, I was careful and used MAF cleaner on the MAF. Used dielectric grease on ICM, After cleaning every thing up. I have looked at many sites on the net, just found this site. I want to Thank you. I'm seventy and don't have a lot of money. So I hope you will continue to help me to get to the bottom of this. I have worked on all my cars over the years, and this has me stumped.

At first you said, "Does not show a code.", now you say, "it showed a code for Map".
So which is it? If it had a code, why not post the code and one of us can get you the troubleshooting procedure for that code. Not 100% of the time does a code mean a sensor is bad, it just refers to the circuit, it could be a wire or connection or ground issue.

Sorry I was not clear when I asked the question. I changed the MAP. Cleared the code and it has not shown a code since.. I did not think that was the problem as no code came back after I changed the Map. What I wrote was the steps I took after it continued to act up and quit running. I hope that this clears up. my mistake in explaining the problem.

Also, each time I changed a part, I drove the car about 17 miles, stopped at a store and returned home. Sometimes it acted up right away, other times, not until I slowed to come in to town.:" The very first time it did this," I had drove about 30 miles to another town, drove back about 20 miles, stopped for gas. Started the car to finish the last 10 miles to home and it shut off right away. And several times on the way home. To repeat, shut off for a second, restart itself with a jump in the RPM's and a jerk. I hope this will help in finding the problem, This is very rural, so the towns are 10, 17, and 30 miles away. So this is mostly highway speeds. And as I explained , the latest I started it and within a minute it idled down and shut off. This was when you asked about the temperature sensor. It always starts right back up. As a normal start up. Hope I have not confused you again As I wrote early this morning and thought I should add more detail. Thanks

So how do I check the map circuit?

Here is a guide to help you test the MAP sensor circuit and the engine wiring diagrams so you can see how it works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Ken This mess is over. To review. When my car started to stall, I went to ORielly's. It showed a code for the MAP. New MAP sensor. O Rielly's could not cancel the code. Bought a diagnostic tool. Canceled code. It stalled, no code. Talked to the guy at O Rielly's, said to clean the MAF. Bought the special cleaner, it stalled again. Next new crankshaft position sensor. No code again. Next I changed the ICM and coils, it stalled. Talked to several other people, went to a do-it-yourself salvage yard. Looked at about 15 cars with a 3.8 motor, guess what was gone on them all. Mass Air Flow! Finally found one! Put it on and not one time has it stalled since. Did not clean it or anything, cleaned up the metal that it sets in. Put a little dielectric grease on it and off I drove. Save you money on the cleaner, when you show a MAP code, replace the MAP and go ahead and change the MAF at the same time. You can buy a cheap one on ebay and don't have to pay hundreds of dollars at the parts store. Every place I looked and everyone I talked to said, "it did not surprise them, that it never showed a code again. Hope this helps all you 3.8 GM owners out there. And I want to thank everyone at 2carpro's with all of their help.Pat

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

I was sitting at a stop sign when the car shuddered and stalled. I tried to start it, it would start and immediatly stall again. I let it sit for about and hour and the car started and ran fine for about 25 miles and the process repeated again. Also the service engine light came on. What could the problem be?

Need to scan the PCM for the code/codes. The light is the PCM's way of telling you it has recorded a failure with something in the engine management. Autozone will scan it for free, get back with the results

as soon as i remove it from park and place it on drive it shuts off completely.

May be due to a faulty idle control system, if the car keeps running with a little extra throttle applied, get the idle control system checked.

it also does it when i place it on reverse too

Same deal, if the base idle is to low, any load as in placing in gear can stall engine.

how sure are you with this answer?

well considering that i can't test the car first hand, this is my opinion as to where to start looking for faults that can cause your problem. If you have doubts get a mechanic to test the system first hand.

Our car starts and runs but quits at odd times. We hae changed the computer and o2 sensor. Now the O2 sensor is burning out repeatedly and they have no idea why it keeps burning out. This is the 3rd or 4th O2 sensor in 2 months. How they figured it out was a computer flickered with the error message and now comes up with the message. There is a weak signal coming from the sensor and that is what is causing the car to run normal and then cut off randomly. They have asked us to buy a O2 sensor from a GM dealership only if the sensor is of a different brand. I looked and the sensor they are using is the exact same as what GM sells. Which is a Bosch which is the best brand

Hi
What was code in P0xxx format? Has fuel pressure been checked? recent tune?does it die hot, cold,at speed, idling? does it die like key turned off?
Let me know
Thnaks for donate

Hi
What was code in P0xxx format? Has fuel pressure been checked? recent tune?does it die hot, cold,at speed, idling? does it die like key turned off?
Let me know
Thnaks for donate
It was tuned about two years ago. (all spark plugs replaced, all filters, all injectors were cleaned, and a few other things). It dies cold, hot, and at idle. It just depends one the situation. We have had it die going down the road at 70 miles an hour and then die when trying to put it into drive. Also if it was a fuel issue, tell if I am wrong, it would sputter to a stop but the car normally just shuts off not really sputters.
Mechanic won't give me the code!!

Go to an Auto Zone they will do for free

The code is P0102 MAG
Constantly scan tool shows MAF readings sticking and 1.34 sec or 1.64 gls or 2.07gls. lan watch scope gives good back probe readings on MAF that computer is not reading. Sometimes the computer has good readings, sometimes not, w/o touching or moving anything.
This guy has replaced 3 computers and as many o2 sensors. Also replaced the battery. The car is running now but weare still afraid it will go back to it's old ways.
It's my nephews car so taking me a long time to get the info.
Not sure if this is making the connection to the oldstring, if not let me know at [email protected]
Thanks!!

Most likely causes for Po102 is air leak at MAF, throttle spacer,intake manifold,PCV,EGR,oil dipstick tube and oil filler cap. Also is MAF signal frequency over 1200 Hertz?

1999 Pontiac Grand Prix 6 cyl 86000 miles

ok i replaced the mass air flow sensor, now my car is doing the same thing i had the computer cleared and reset and still having the same problem and the problem is that my rpm's go up to 4,000 and drop almost all the way down below 1,000 and sputter and die and it also does it while driving around corners or stopsigns lights, or even costing down hill it will just die. but the code that was read after replacing mass air flow sensor is that lean bank 1 and that has to deal with my full injetor but would this cause the problem or any thing with fuel pump or fuel filter....

Checked everything you recommended and all OK. The car ran right for awhile after replacing the computer and o2 sensor for the third time. However last week the "check engine" light came on again. The code that came up this time was for the catalytic converter. When we brought it in originally they thought maybe it was just a miss reading or some how fuel or something set of the sensor. So they just reset the computer and told us to wait 100 miles and see if the check engine soon light came on. Well it came back on this past Friday so we are taking it in to check the code and see what it says and if it is the converter again we are going to replace it. But I want your advice one thing. What normally happens when a catalytic converter goes out? Could this be the cause of all my original problems?
Thanks!!

What is the trouble code? Why did you change the MAF sensor?
What is the fuel pressure? and how fast does the fuel pressure drain down after the engine is off?

If code is P0420 that would not cause your problem but faulty MAF could was it replaced? O2 that fails is it after CAT?

Car continually stalls. Cannot keep running after more than 4 seconds. Fuel tank 1/2 full, fuel pump runs at key on engine off for few seconds and fuel pressure is 55 psi. However, pressure gradually drops to 0 with engine on resulting in a stall. Replaced relays - no change. ODB computer shows nothing, no trouble lights or check engine warning.

I have the same problem, and you want here something weird, I took the fuel pump out and looked at it and put it back in and the car ran fine for A DAY! But i also did a fuel relay test and the car still wouldn't start all the time, but i was going to replace the fuel filter but that couldn't stop the car from running, i couldn't be that dirty, so finaly I got mad at it and hit the fuel pump with a hammer, "a lot" haven't had a problem since then. BUT THIS IS JUST A SUGGESTION! but i didn't not like beat the crap out of it i just tapped it when it came on, "helps if you have a friend there to put the car on run mode" but I've been told that some fuel pumps are stored for years in a warehouse and when you leave anything sit around for a while stuff tend to freeze up or fall apart. but i hope this will be somewhat helpful to you

I have a Pontiac grand Prix GTP. It out of no where started stalling and i have to wait a few hours for it to restart. After I get it running again i'm lucky if I can make it a half mile and dies again.Changed the fuel filter still the same problem. fuel pump seems to be working fine. I don't have a lot of money but need to diagnose this problem. any help would be appreciated.

Hi Sorry did not get to you sooner. Is check engine light comming on? Need fuel pressure checked @48 psi.How recent are plugs, wires ect. Any recent repairs?
Let me know

No check engine light. Fuel pressure is good! Plugs and wires are a little less then a year old. The only repair that I did was after it first died and I had to wait for it to turn over again and that was the fuel filter.

O.K. need to determine what is causing engine to die. When it is in the no start mode pull plug wire hold next to block crank spark? if yes then spray carb cleaner into air intake crank does it fire?
Let me know

I pulled plug wire and held it next to the block and got blue and yellow spark. I also used carb cleaner and starting fluid while it was in non turn over mode and that didn't help either. Its just really weird how it starts up fine after sitting and will die after around 3 blocks(i tried driving it again). It will some times turn over for a few seconds and then sputter out but it usually cranks fine but wont turn over.

Spak should be a blue/white flame yellow indicates a weak coil so problem maybe in coil pack