Stalling and idling issue?

I saw below somebody mentioned the Ignition switch. I do have a difficult time turning the key, so I had assumed it was just the cylinder.
But how would that explain all the codes?

Thanks for the video. It sounds like and looks like one of the accessories such as the AC compressor or alternator is trying to lock up causing the RPM to fluctuate. I would remove the drive belt to spin the pulleys to see which one is having an issue. This guide will show you how and I have included further instructions in the images below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-serpentine-belt

The electrical connector looks okay, and I would spray WD40 in the ignition switch which should help free it up. With the belt off of the engine start it up for about 2 minutes to see if the problem goes away. Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response of the problem so we can see what's going on.

So, I thought I took a video when I first went out and started the car so you could see it with the belt on, but I don't know why, I must have hit the wrong button. The belt was moving like sliding back-and-forth on the tension and the water pump. The water pump also had erratic movement wobbly. I got the belt off. The tension was very, very hard to move. There was not a bit of play in the belt. I went back into the car, and it would start, but it would not turn over. I've probably tried to do that but I've times and now the battery is dead. I just had it checked it was fully charged. The reason I say it's not the alternator is because when the battery drains and there are no lights whatsoever. The lights will come on after a few minutes though. There is also a small puddle under the car. Where the serpentine is. That is the first time, and it looks like water. But because the car is SO low to the ground. I can't get under there. Let me know what you think so far. I'll update you because I am getting a jump and I'll send a video as soon as I can.

Sounds good to me it could be the water pump and the belt tensioner, but a video will help us get closer to the problem.

Hi,

It was the alternator and the water pump. I know where the 4 short bolts go. I have 3 long bolts and 1 slightly longer. The longer one I have in number 5. 2 of the others will not get tight. What are the actual sizes so that I can get new ones?

Good find, it is important to get the bolts in the correct location, here is a warning form the manufacturer and the instructions on how to do the job with the bolt locations as you have requested.

Fastener Notice

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Thank you, but that was. Don't tell me the size of the bolts.

Sorry, that doesn't show me the size of the bolts. It also only shows 4 bolts. My water pump has 8. Plus the ones for the pulley..

Can you upload an image of the problem so I can see?

The ones with the blue are open.

I believe those are for alignment dowels, not bolts go in there.

Yes, I know that's why I marked them. All the other spaces get bolts. And your diagram only shows 4 for the pulley 4 for the pump and the 2 for the power steering. Also, if you notice the installation is the same direction arrow as the removal. And it's the same 4 bolts on there but I found the size of the bolts. I got that taken care of.

However, since this is the never-ending saga... After I hooked up the battery. I proceeded to do the relearn on the throttle body. Because I had disconnected it to test it, it tested fine. When I first started the car, it was sputtering a bit like it was 4. But after about less than a minute, it's settled into a normal idol and purred like a kitten. Went through the whole procedure. 3-1-3-1 no problem. When I was done shut it off came inside to cleanup and was getting ready to take for test drive And return all the unusable parts people said I should get lol
Started it up, sounds great, put it in gear, not 2 feet down the road it starts sputtering and then stalls same exact way it acted before.
I had somebody take me to the auto store. I got a multimeter and a code reader. Now I get p0336 crankshaft sensor. It was about dark and I had about had it. So I'm going to test that in the morning.
Before I go out and buy a new one.

So really, hopefully that sounds like it'll be the end. Let me know what you think.
But why is it that these codes don't all come up right from the beginning? I'm why is it nothing came up? Indicating your original solution which was definitely needed because it was I'm why is it nothing came up indicating your original solution which was definitely needed because it was dead when I would come out in the morning from the diode issue in the alternator. And the belt and the water pump were probably two days away from completely crapping out. Yet before I started to work on those things it was giving me a vacuum leak. I don't know how you guys do it. Every time I work on my car I appreciate mechanics more and more. I'm in a mechanic's facebook group and somebody another woman... Making me look bad just kidding.... Said she gotta her alternator For 220 dollars, watched a video And change it in about an hour and if a mechanic charged more than 300 for that job, it was a rip-off. I said first reputable shops get OEM parts because there's a warranty.
And second they don't give them to you for the same price they pay. I said first reputable shops get OEM parts. Because there's a warranty, and second, they don't give them to you for the same price they pay. I went to the whole thing. Good shops top off your fluids The last one I was using even vacuum to my car out. Pick me up and drop me off for free. So I said well. I got my alternator at Rock for 95 bucks so I think you ripped yourself off at 220 And you are clueless about repair shops. They are no different than any other service industry that is there to make money, not save you money necessarily. Anyway, let me know what you think and if you have any answers to my code questions and I'll send an update! Thank you so much.

Good Morning,

Here's where I'm at. When I got out to test, I ran a diagnostic again. The 0336 code was no more, and I had p0107. Sure enough, that was broken in half. And it failed the test, so I got a new one. As I looked up, the price for the battery that had been leaking. I realized that the person had put in the wrong battery. He had a 24f 585cca and the car needs h6 750cca from what I read, that would eventually cause the battery to leak and the alternator to be overworked I suppose is the best word. and not charge the battery and both to be bad. So, the battery affected the alternator which affected the water pump, or the water pump was just going bad i don't know. Then as I understand it, the voltage drops in the alternator can fry some of the electronics and sensors. After I replaced the battery, all the codes went away except P0107. I've attached the MAP that I took off. Of course I replaced it. Reconnected the battery started the car. It had a very rough idle at first and then Settle down and runs fine until I put it in gear. The rough idle starts right up again and it stalls as soon as I put my foot on the gas. If I do not put my foot on the gas or I just barely touch it. It will run for ten or fifteen feet in forward or reverse then stall. Code p0336 now shows.

I didn't mean to send that. So 2 things. the plug or the gasket at the bottom of the map sensor was stuck and it went down in side of where it attaches to rather than coming out. I've read that that isn't an issue, is that correct? Could that still be causing the problem? My next question is P0335 is for the sensor itself. The crankshaft sensor p0336 is for crankshaft performance. What should I do next? I need to fix this car. It seems every time I fix one thing another thing comes up.

I appreciate your continued help, thank you.

Lets start a new question for these codes. Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken