Engine stalls while driving?

Hi, Dane, and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Based on your description, it could be a few different things causing this. First, if the check engine light has come on and stayed on when the engine is running, you need to scan the computer for codes. If you have a scanner, great. If you do not, often times parts stores will lend you one.

Here is a quick video that shows how to use one:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Now, there are a couple other things which could be checked. Both a weak fuel pump (low pressure) or an ignition problem (such as a bad crankshaft position sensor) can be an issue.

Here is a link which describes how to check fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The first picture below contains the fuel pressure specifications required by the manufacturer. The second is where the pressure gauge is connected.

Next, a bad crankshaft position sensor can act similar to what you described and never set an engine code. (the check engine light never comes on). Read through this link which describes symptoms of a bad sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If you find the sensor is the issue, here is a general guide for replacement

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

If you feel the sensor should be checked, here are the specific directions from alldata specific to your vehicle. Pictures three and four correlate with these directions.


CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (OBD)
1. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (OBD) harness connector.
2. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
3. Remove the sensor.
4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.
5. Check resistance as shown in the figure.
Resistance: Approximately 166.5 - 203.5 Ohms [at 20°C (68°F)]
If NG, replace crankshaft position sensor (OBD).

Picture five is the location of the sensor.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions or need additional help.

Joe

engine shut off at 55 mph, turns over but does not ignite, what may have happened?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

You need to find out what is missing causing the non starting. The above link explains how to go about.

When i go to start my vehicle it turns off after 1 or 2 seconds kind of like it is not getting fuel can anybody help me?

Good morning,

Is the theft or security light on after it starts? It sounds like a security issue turning it off.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Roy

That didn't work the security light still stays on when trying to start the car. I did just replace the ignition switch do i have to do anything special when doing that?

Did you replace the key as well?

The system has to be programmed and you need an advanced scan tool for this procedure.

If you do not have one, you can call a locksmith and he can come to you and program the security to get it to run.

Otherwise, it is a tow to the dealer or shop and programming performed.

Roy

Yes, the ignition switch i bought came with 2 keys. i believe they were already programmed.

You need the system programmed. They do not come programmed. They have to be programmed on the vehicle.

I would call a locksmith and have him come to you and program them.

Roy

car has been wanting to stall. It hesitates and then I smell something sweet coming from the engine with a little smoke coming from the right side of the engine (when facing the car). Also, when I looked in the under the engine it seems like something is leaking but I do not know where it is coming from. Check all the fluids and they are all good. Hoping that it is something simple to fix. Thank you

The sweet smell is a coolant leak. Have the cooling system pressure tested to determine the source of the leak.

So that could make the car want to stall?

Hard to say. You shouldn't be driving it with a coolant leak anyway. Resolve that and then start a new question for the stalling. You could be just getting it too hot.

Not running right and when it stalls out exhaust smoke comes out of air box, and it's like the tailpipe is my air box?

Hello,

It sounds like you have a clogged catalytic converter. To be sure here is a guide to help confirm the issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down this guide and report back.

So, my Pathfinder had been running okay but having some lagging acceleration on hills etc. Then the other morning it didn't want to turn over, started then died~all interior lights etc. all working. Started it again and it drove fine for about five miles and then started stuttering and died on the side of the road. Towed it home and now it will turn over after a few tries but dies after a lot of stuttering. Did a spark test as recommended in other posts and i'm getting spark. Replaced the fuel filter, didn't make a difference. What else? How do I test the fuel pump? Could it be a timing belt issue?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Above link shows how to test fuel pressure.

Replaced the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs/wires, relay. Fuses are all fine, dist. cap etc. fine. Still acting the same~wants to turn over but won't and if it does every once in ten tries it runs really rough and then dies, just like before. Any ideas?

Did you check for trouble codes?

Once it's over 35 mph it runs good, but is only getting 8.5-9.2 miles to a gallon. Have put new sensors on the intake and new filters but still stuttering and shutting off?

This sounds like the engine is starving of fuel but with the low fuel mileage we need to suspect it is a rich condition.

We need to do three things. First, test the fuel pressure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Second, if you have a scan tool we need to monitor the o2 sensor data and see what the short and long term fuel trims are saying.

Last we need to pull a spark plug or two and see what they look like. If they are showing signs of rich condition then we can go after possible high pressure or injector leaking.

With all this info we should be able to get a good idea. Thanks

All plugs and wires are new as are the injection idle, air, temp, map sensors, but it's now blowing fuel out of the exhaust. Would pressure cause this or a cracked head like in simis?

Yes. This could be caused by excessive pressure. The most likely cause are leaking injectors that are just dumping too much fuel. We need to start with checking the pressure and go from there. Thanks

Pressure a little low on numbers 3 and 4, but not bad.

I am not sure I understand. Did you check fuel pressure or compression?

Here are guides on both. Let me know if you did one of these or something else. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Can the positive wire from the battery, if shorted cause a complete shutdown of the vehicle?

I don't know about that but it could have caused some fuses to blow, like the computer fuse and other fuses that will stop the vehicle from operating check here under the hood fuse box make sure all fuses are good

i don't know much about cars but when I start its fine and it stalls and rides rough

i would start with the simple things first, do a tune up, plugs leads, air & fuel filter, scan for any unresolved fault codes, check for vacuum leaks, start here

my wife has a 1997 pathfinder. she states that when she is driving the car shuts off by itself while driving,then she puts it in neutral turns the key and it starts again. She says that it happens at least once a day

Hi rmanzo,

It sounds like you have a crankshaft angle sensor that is going out but to be sure this guide will help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.