SmartTrack not working?

Hi,

Does the scan tool power up and connect with the vehicle? Also, I attached the wiring schematic below. Are these the fuses you checked?


Bravada's "Smart Trak" system has a computer-controlled NP-136 transfer case. It runs in RWD under normal operations, and only when wheel slip is detected does the "SmartTrak" kick into AWD.

With that in mind, is the ABS light on as well? We could simply have a wheel speed sensor which is an issue.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Yes, the scan tool powers up when I plug it into the vehicle.

I haven't checked these fuses yet. If I'm reading this correctly, these fuses are inside the vehicle, underneath the dashboard on the driver's side? Or is this cluster of fuses on the side of the dashboard inside the vehicle on the driver's side?

The ABS light has never come on.

Thanks

Update: Both fuses, ATC (25A) and the ING E (10A) are intact.

Hi,

If there is power to and from them, then we need to check if the transfer case shift control module has power at the orange wire from the fuses.

The transfer case module is in the vehicle under the left side of the dash. Is this something you are comfortable performing?

As far as the IGN E fuse, if there are no ABS indicators, the sensors and fuse are good.

Let me know.

Joe

Yes, I believe I could do it with some instruction.

Hi,

No problem. We need to first access the module which is under the dash on the driver's side of the vehicle.

I attached directions to access (or remove) the module. All we need to do is access it.

At the module, there will be three electrical connectors. Two will have several wires and one of them will only have four wires. One of them is the orange wire. See the last pic below.

If you can, back probe the orange wire to check for power. If you are unable to back probe it, remove only that connector and check the pin for the orange wire for power. You can use a voltmeter, multimeter, or test light for this test. Whichever you have will work.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: The directions indicate removing the vent tube (pic 4). I can't remember if that is necessary, so double-check before you give yourself more work. LOL

Okay, I got some things removed. I see 2 plugs that are roughly 3” long. (See pics).

Do I want to probe the orange wire from the grey plug?

Here are the pics.

Update: probing the orange wire from the grey plug, my test light turns on.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. If you have power present, there is a chance the module itself has failed. Is your scan tool bi-directional? We need to see if the module can be actuated manually via a scan tool.

However, check to make sure the black wire has continuity to ground. It could be a ground issue as well.

Joe

i am only using a test light to check the orange wire. How would I use it to check the black wire? What does a positive result look like? What is this module called? Maybe I'll get a new one. In replacing it, would i unplug each wire individually? or do they come out in groups?

Hi,

It is likely an expensive part. I wouldn't arbitrarily replace it unless we are sure it is faulty. And, the connectors need to be removed, not the individual wires.

Now, if you are using a test light, the only thing you can do to confirm a good ground is this. Connect the alligator clip of the test light to the battery-positive terminal. With the connector disconnected, probe the black wire. If there is a good ground, it will turn on the light brightly. If it is a weak ground, the light will be dim. If there is no ground, the light will not turn on.

Let me know if that helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

I’ll have to figure out to connect to the positive terminal and tech inside the truck. When you say “connector disconnected” what do you mean? Remove all the wires from it?

Expensive like $100? Or $600?

I will be in snowy Minnesota shortly, AWD is a must.

The connector that you checked for power should be disconnected from the module. Then, probe the ground wire with the test light.

Minnesota? I'm in Pittsburgh. It's cold enough here. LOL

As far as the part, it is the transfer case control module. See pic below. That is a remanufactured one. If possible, see if you can find one in a salvage yard that is guaranteed good. I would think you could find one for under $100.00.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

I never did test the ground, but I went to the junkyard and got a transfer case control module. Now I just need to fine some sand and spin the tires.

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