Will not start only a single click

Hi,

There was a technical service bulletin (TSB) out regarding the data link connector failure. Take a look at the TSB and let me know if that has been checked or performed.

Also, if you get one click when trying to start it and nothing more, that usually indicates a weak connection or battery, faulty starter motor, or a locked engine. Have all of these things been checked?

Let me know what pin you are checking for continuity as well.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Thank you, sir, for the previous email that has guided me to this point. The click problem is solved. It was due to the battery and bad ground wire problem.
The challenge now is a crank no start. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well.
Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. I have also checked for dc current at the injector pulse but no dc current.
At last, I have checked for code the only code I have seen is the p1842 and p1843 codes. Please, what can I do next?

Hi,

Okay, we have no spark or fuel. We need to check a couple of fuses and other electrical components.

First, if you have a live data scanner, see if there is an RPM signal when the engine is cranking and let me know.

Next, under the hood there are two fuses we need to check for condition and if there is power to them. I attached the entire powertrain management wiring schematic below. It was two pages long, but I had to cut each page in half to make it readable for you. I did overlap them and highlighted the wiring related to the ignition coils and fuel injectors.

Start there. There is a main relay in the under-hood fuse box that powers both components. We need to confirm there is power to it and ground. The fuses are 26 and 37. Fuse 37 powers the relay and components. If you look at pic 1 below, note there is a blue wire with a red tracer. That provides a ground path for the relay to energize via the PCM. So first check the fuses, then the relay itself, and then if they are good, confirm a ground path when the key is turned on. If this fuse or relay is failing, you won't have an injector pulse or ignition spark. If there is another relay in the box that has the same part number, switch them to see if it makes a difference. If there isn't, I included a link explaining how one is checked.

Also, when checking the fuse, it is also important to confirm there is power to and from it. Here are the links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Thank you, sir, for your support. I have seen the schematic diagram and
the guide to fixing the problem. I will check these and give you a
feedback.

Hi David,

Let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing.

I wish you a Merry Christmas.

Take care,

Joe

The fuses are working and relay but what I have noticed here is that when I switch ignition to ON position as usual in other, they should be ignition current first then during ECU normally ground the other side of the injector. Please What should I do now to have that first ignition current to the injector wire only with key on ignition which I'm not having?

Do you mean there is no power to the injectors with the key in the on position?

Tell me specifically what gets power and what doesn't and the conditions under which you are checking them. I'm a little confused at this point.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

That is what I got there- in one side ground was lacking in the relay connector and on the other side the current was lacking. In the fuse location that you highlighted, there was no current in both places until when I connected a current from inside the car to where I noticed a short of current to the injector circuit. The challenge presently is that there was no rpm signal during cranking with my scan Tool. And it is a three-wire crank sensor. Please how should I test this aside from the live data method I used to be certain that is the crank sensor that is faulty and not a problem in the ECU that is hindering the car from starting. Because there is no spark or injector pulse.

Hope there was supposed to be ground and current in that relay socket I showed.

Yes, you right there was no power to the injector with the key "on" but engine off. Please can you send me the best place to connect my ignition with key "on"? The only place I see here is for A/C which I think is not best but when I tap it there the injector normally comes on with the key on but engine off.

Hi,

You shouldn't jump power for this circuit. Tell me, I attached a pic below and circled wires. First, is the fuse good? Is there power to and from it? Is there power out from the brown wire with an orange tracer? If the fuse is good and there is power out to the aforementioned wire, did you confirm the relay is good? If you have, check for continuity to ground via the blue wire with a red tracer. That runs to the PCM and when the PCM provides a ground path to that wire, the relay actuates, allowing power to reach the injectors. Also, note that there is a shorting link (fusible link) that could be preventing the ground path from completing. Did you check that?

I don't advise using a different power supply in this case.

Let me know.

Joe

I benched tested virtually all the relay in power center. It was only one relay that felt very hot while the other was bad (RL 10 and 15). But I swapped it with a good one on different at all in terms of power to the injector wire that is brown and orange stripes. I took a picture of that wire.

Were you able to confirm if there is a ground path via the blue wire with a red tracer? Also, if you have the relay removed and jump pins 3 and 5 (circled in blue below), do you get power to the brown wire with an orange tracer?

Joe

No, I did not try that. Today I will check and give you feedback.
But for the brown wire there was no current but when I tapped current from that A/C system as shown below current entered the brown wire.
The wires were cut by the previous engineers that came to work on the car. There are 2 red wires, one is earth/ground wire, the other was no current nor ground that was the one I connected ignition current to before current entered the fuses and injector wires with key on.

Hi,

It's hard for me to determine what is happening looking at the pics. However, when you powered the brown wire, the injectors should have had power.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I will disconnect, what I connected to the ignition wire of the A/C system today and do what you have advised me to. I will give you feedback when I have done it.

Please, I'm working on the car now which of the relay should I remove? and run the test as shown in the diagram.

That's the video showing what happens when I removed RL-19 and bypassing it with wire on.

Pin 30 and 87.

Today I requested something from the man, and he didn't hesitate but did it for me -that was to call is friend that had exactly of his vehicle whose car was starting to come to his house which he did.
When he came, I was surprised over my diagnosis? But before I proceed, I want to thank you for the information that I shouldn't tap current to that injector.

These were the things I got from the man car that was starting and driving without any issues but with the man car I got something very different in that power center.

These are the things I got from the man car that was not starting.

Same thing happens to the PCM circuit where there DC there was no DC in the car that was not starting for example the 5 wire connector had 1 earth that is black wire and blue with ignition current but the other 3 I didn't have anything either ignition, DC nor ground but in the car that wasn't starting I got 4 ignition on the other wires but no earth on the black wire.

Please sir help me, what's the cause and solution to this car problem? I want the car to start what are you advising me to do?

Hi David,

I want to help, but I'm starting to get confused. The pics you attached above are hand-drawn, and I'm not really clear on what they are specifically for or what was already done to the vehicle. Not being there leaves me to depend on the schematics I sent. So, if there is something other than that I'm unaware of, it really gets difficult to diagnose. I hope that makes sense and you understand.

I'm also not sure if you are getting power to the relay in both places. It is a switch and nothing more. However, for the relay to work, it first gets energized. When that happens, there is an electromagnetic attraction that closes the switch sending power to (in this case) the injectors.

I really want to help. Please let me know if the relay is getting power to actuate and when that happens, does the power go to the injectors?

I will watch for your reply. Hang in there, my friend. We'll get it figured out one way or another.

Take care,

Joe

That's what I have noticed today. Please what's the cause and solution to the problem?

Hi,

There is a lot of corrosion, are you sure it isn't a faulty connection? In your last video, you indicated the test light wasn't turning on. Was that connected to the brown/orange wire? Was the key on? If fuse 37 is good and you are not getting power to that wire, then the problem is within the relay, shorting link 6 has failed, or there is a connection issue within the relay box or at the ECM. Are you getting power to the blue/red wire when the key is on? If you disconnect it, you won't get power. Power comes from fuse 37 as well and a ground path is provided by the ECM. Once the ECM provides ground, power flows from fuse 37, through the relay, through the shorting link 6, and to ground via the PCM. When that happens, the relay actuates allowing power to transfer to the brown/orange wire.

Let me know.

Joe

Today I have traced that wire and it goes directly to the starter motor. Please can you send me the factory starting system wiring diagram for that car?

At last, I noticed that some wires that when to coil were shorted to each other. However, there was still no power to the injector circuit. I suspected that the power center had an issue and not a wrong wiring because, there was virtually none.

As you can see from the video there was no power at fuses 26 and 37, brown/orange wire too was not receiving power except I bypass current to shorting link 12.

This is what I noticed from the aftermarket fuse box that I later replaced yesterday with the one that came with the car. Please note sir that this other aftermarket I inserted has power to fuse 37 without any bypass of current as well as at the shorting link 12. But there was no power to fuse 26 except I swapped the tester location from negative to positive before power gets to that fuse 26. But in the previously inserted fuse box it was not so.
In addition, the blue/red wire I noticed is activating the fusible link 19 with my tester at battery negative and testing that wire. Please, what can I do next?

Please sir, assist me more with what I can do to fix that car problem. Looking forward to your reply. Thank you.

Hi,

Take a look at the first 4 pics below. I start at the battery and work through the wiring to fuse 26 and 37. See if you can find where power is lost. I highlighted wires, connector identifications, fuses, relays, have blue arrows pointing to where to go next, and everything to the two fuses you mentioned.

The remaining pics are the starting system.

I hope the first 4 pics help. Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: Pics 5 and 6 are from one page. I cut it in half to make it readable.

Thank you so much for your response.

I will give you a feedback when I check that.

Sounds good. I look forward to hearing from you. Somewhere in that circuit, power is being lost.

Take care,

Joe

Good evening, sir. Thank you once more for your response. I pulled out the ECM and checked there was actually lots of short to ground therein and few wires breached with each other which I corrected. In addition, I noticed that "there was no ignition current at all in the fuse box," but the dashboard lights were coming "on" with key "on" which is proper. The fuse box itself didn't transfer power to fuse 26 and 37 that were responsible for transferring current to the injector circuit with ignition switch turned to "on" position. Hence, I told the car owner that the fuse box too will require replacement. And when he purchased it from a store the was current there at the fuses but not to the injector circuit. I noticed that some pins in the fuse box that was powering fuses 26 and 37 were completely pulled out.
Also, I noticed that instead of Fuse 26 to be powered with test light on ground it was rather powered with test light on battery positive. Please sir, help me out with what I can do next to fix the car problem permanently.

But I noticed something else that made me flabbergasted, which I will need your assistance please. When I got an aftermarket fuse box and install it to the car without any further repair done by me, I saw something remarkable, the fuse 26 and 37 that I highlighted before in the older fuse box didn't have current nor ground to it, with the new one installed the was current to fuse 37 while fuse 26 didn't have current to it using my test light except I swapped the test light from battery negative terminal to positive before it lost the test light. But in the older fuse box there was no current nor ground at those fuses 26 and 37. Please sir, what should I do next?

This test I noticed from another aftermarket fuse box without any repairs done by me, just replaced the fuse box and current started getting to the fuse as seen there in the video.
But some pins in this particular fuse box were not intact which I didn't notice until I pulled out some of those fuses and found out that the hole for the fuse was empty.
Please do I need to replace it with a better Fuse box?

From the video I didn't do anything like bypassing of current or any connections. It was only replacement of fuse box with an aftermarket one before current got to that fuse.