used PCM computer installed mileage wrong now?

The car you got the computer from must have had 190,000 miles on it.Thats why it changed to that problem is once it changed to that you cant turn it back to 60,000 miles.What your going to have to do is prove some how that you only had 60,000 something miles on the car thru smog tests service work on the car stuff like that.You will also have to replace your body control module and then they can change the mileage at that tiime.Once a mileage is programed into the body control module thru the dealers service stall when the module is new it cannot be changed thru the service stall agian unless you replace it with a new one.Prevents dishonest people turning back the mileage of a car.The module is 311.65 plus tax and also 1 hour labor times 80-100 per hour depending on shop rate.Unless you can find a new one online that has never been programed.Let me know what you find.

How do you remove the plugs from the ECM after you unlock the locks? (3.0 engine)

Once the locks are free you simply pull the connectors out. Here is how the PCM is replaced in the instructions below with diagrams showing the PCM location and replacement procedure.


The ECM has a learning ability that allows it to adjust the fuel control system to compensate for a rich or lean engine running condition. The ECM uses long term fuel trim cells, which are averages of the short term fuel trim cells. The short term fuel trim cells continuously adjust the amount of fuel the engine needs based on signals from the pre-catalyst oxygen sensors. If DTCs are cleared, the battery is disconnected, or if the ECM is replaced, the ECM long term fuel trim cells are reset to 0% and the ECM will adjust for variations in the fuel once the pre-catalyst oxygen sensors are functioning. If the engine was running rich or lean before the long term fuel trim cells were cleared, a notice in driveability may result until the ECM updates the long term fuel trim cells. The vehicle should be brought up to normal operating temperature of 80°C (176°F) to allow the ECM to adjust for any rich/lean engine running condition.

The ECM also has the ability to learn the throttle body, which allows it to learn the 0% and rest (7%) TP sensor position values as well as ensure both return spring rates within the throttle body are within acceptable limits. The ECM will automatically relearn the throttle body if the ignition is turned On for longer than 29 seconds with the ECT and IAT above a certain range (see Minimum Throttle Position Not Learned DTC). The ECM will automatically relearn the throttle body upon key-up if the battery is disconnected or the ECM has been replaced or reprogrammed. The throttle body should always be relearned if a new throttle body or ECM has been replaced. To relearn, key-up for 1 minute with the ignition On, engine Off while keeping foot Off accelerator pedal.

The ECM also has the ability to learn the crankshaft notch variation used to correctly detect engine misfires. The ECM continuously and automatically under all speed and load ranges learns the notch variation. It is important to reset the CKP notch variation adaptives using the Scan tool ONLY when a crankshaft is replaced. If the ECM is replaced or reprogrammed, the adaptives will be reset and the threshold to set misfires will be relaxed.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

I took my 2003 saturn vue v6 3.0L to the shop and had the o2 sensor and all the sparkplugs replaced bc the technician said those were the codes that were coming up. worked fine for a few days then the service engine light came on so i took it back and the same exact codes came up for the cylinder misfire and 02 sensor so the tech said it most likely a bad ecu. is that what it is the ecu? if i buy a used ECU and have it put in my car i dont have to get it reprogrammed if it is off the same year make and model right? if i replace the ecu are there any other mandatory parts that need to be replaced with it? please help i spent all the money i had at the first shop and cant afford another

Before you go changing the ecm did the guy even test the o2 circuit to find out it was a bad ecm?or did he just say it needed one since you brought it back for the same code?

Im not positive if he tested it bc i left the car there he took it in the shop before i left. is there a certain test that can be done just to test the ECU? by the way is the ECU the same as an ECM?

my car runs bad and the service engine light is on as well as the brake light the light that comes on when the emergency brake is on. i have it siting in my drive way and just the other day it wouldnt start so i got a new battery and took it directly to advanced to get it checked for a bad alternator and again the only codes that came up were undetected misfire, misfire in cylinder 4 and 6 and the 02 sensor. the alternator and starter where fine but before i bought the battery i got my battery tested and it was shot

A ecu is short for engine control unit a ecm is short for engine control module they both are the same just different name's for them.I need the exact code number's you have then i can tell you more about what's going on.

error codes that the car has are P0300,P0304,P0306, P0152.

Driving car, engaged right turn signal, slowed down, braked for stop sign, engine died, and we coasted to a stop. All the dash lights started flashing, a clicking noise came from under the dash (and continued for at least 15 minutes - even after the key was removed from the ignition), and the car wouldn't re-start. This was the second time this happened - the first time we replaced the battery as the mechanic suggested - the codes the first time were P1599, P1516, P1670, P1682. The BCM was replaced two years ago.

As far as the po300 p0304 and the p0306 i would say that would be more likely some bad spark plug's or a coil.The P0152 could be a bad ecm but you have to make sure the trouble tree was followed to make sure that he didn't just throw in a o2 sensor and since that didn't fix it then he just say's you need a new ecm.Ask him to tell you step by step how he figured out it need a ecm.Then let me know what he said and we will go from there.

Heres what i need you to do have the battery charged and tested.Then when you have that done start the engine let it idle and check the voltage at the battery cables at idle.Let me know what the voltage is.Sounds like a charging issue from what you described.Also what size engine do you have?

when i had the o2 sensor replaced i also had all of my spark plugs replaced. i had a warranty on my car but it is no longer valid. when the 02 sensor and spark plugs were replaced as well as the water pump they sent someone from my warranty place to look over the car when the car was released to me

The Vue is 4cylinder, 2.2litre, FWD. The battery voltage of the new battery is 12.43volts - I can't start the engine, so I'm unable to determine the alternator output.

so since those codes are still the ones that are coming up after having the 02 sensor and spark plugs changed, are they read by the ECU? and if the ECU is bad then it is giving false codes bc the ECU isnt working?

That clicking you decribed is usually because of low battery voltage.WHat happens when you turn the key to start it?Also if you check the voltage while trying to start it what does the voltage read?

i tried speaking with the service advisor as well as the technician at the Chevrolet dealer (which is were saturn has moved to since saturn was shut down) they are rude and unhelpful since i did not allow them to replace my ECU due to money retrictions. When i call or go there to find out any information they blow me off and say that they told me what is wrong with the car and that my car troubles will be gone once the ECM is replaced.no other information will be given to me. the customer service is horrible. i am getting more help from you than they have given me.

First, the voltmeter reads 12.33 at rest. The car actually started this time and I got a reading of 14.45, but there was a clunk and a low rumble that isn't usually there that lasted about 30 seconds, as well as a buzzing under the dash (a relay?). I used the right turn signal and again the car quit and all the lights started flashing (voltage reading of 12.9) - the buzzing continued until I took the key out of the ignition. All this happened in about 2-3 minutes.

I hate to say it but it really sound's like there just throwing part's at the car.They replace o2 sensor's and spark plug's to fix the problem and two day's later the same code's some up and now they want to guess a ecm or the ecm was the problem all along?They need to fix the problem for free at this point after charging you to fix the problem they never fixed to begin with.Let me ask you a question what state do you live in?

Where did the clunk low rumble come from?Also we dont know if the battery is fully charged so that could be another issue there.Try starting it again and turn on the headlights see if it dies then.

I live in va. To add to the problem.my brake light is on like my emergency brake is on but it's not. The car drives like the brake is on grinding noises and it drives rough

My wife pointed out where she thought the rumble came from - it was around the starter (below the air intake). The engine was trying to turn over this time, but would not fire - no buzzing, no flashing lights, no ticking. The headlights will turn on - but I wasn't able to start the engine to test at the same time.

Your brake issue would have to be inspected and checked out.Here in california we have something called bar Bureau of Automotive Repair we can contact them to help us with cases like you have where you pay for a repair and they charge you to fix it and don't.Do you have anything like that in the state you live in?

Lets do this have the battery charged and tested and go from there also make sure the battery cables are clean and tight.Theres where we need to start and go from there.

The battery was charged over night to 12.85Vdc but could not start the car. Towed the Vue to GM dealer for next stage of work. They thought it was my ingition switch module and that my after market auto start had caused the ignition switch to fail. They replaced the ignition switch and removed the auto start control. $580.00 later I tried to drive off the lot and the car died. They pondered for another day and found a broken /corroded wire leading from the positive battery fuse block post to the ignition switch. The spliced in a lead and all seems to be fine.

So did they give you a refund for replacing the ignition switch etc?Because with a bad batttery how could they test the switch correctly?Sounds they guessed and guessed wrong the first time.Especailly since you couldnt even drive it off the lot when they were done.