1993 Saturn SL1 93 Saturn SL Check Engine Light

I can't find a code 82 can you check the code's again and make sure which code number it is.Also on the rattle with a/c on with the car turn off see if the a/c clutch feels loose or is loose.Let me know what you find.

The exact display is;


The code is 82. According to, Chilton's 91-93 repair manual, that is "PCM internal communication fault".

As far as checking the A/C clutch, I haven't yet. Next time I'm out at the car, I'll do that. If the car is off, and the A/C on, there's no rattle. Only rattles in gear, idling, with A/C on.

I recorded the "flashing" via camera phone. I can upload it if you like.

I'm sorry i must have been spacing out last time i looked for that code and couldn't find it lol.It happens to the best of us.Your right it say's communication between tcm and ecm internal fault.There isn't alot of information on that code it just say's the pcm has wrong calibration.If you haven't had your pcm calibration updated lately then i would say that wouldn't be possible.You could go try to have your pcm calibrated with the lastest software and if that doesn't work then look's like your looking at replacing the pcm.Since it's a internal failure that's really the only thing it could be.

Thanks for the help. I looked around a bit. Seems like the part is about $47 and the labor is only 30 min. Not too bad of a deal. As far as I'm aware, the PCM has never been calibrated.

Just to give you a heads up if your looking at a plug and play where you just replace the pcm and there is no programing involved don't wast your money on having it installed.It's on the drivers side of the dash you just squeze the tab's unplug the connector's then get a screwdriver twist the screw and it falls out in your hand.Very easy to replace the pcm.

Wow! Thanks for the heads up! I didn't know it was that easy of a fix. For some reason, I was under the impression the PCM was located in or around the engine.

Is it possible for you to link me to an image(s) that show the location of the PCM so I know what I'm looking for?

Also, is this something I can pick up at like Auto Zone or would I have to order it?

There's a diagram of where it is.Auto zone has it for 216 you would have to order it i don't know if there programed you would have to shop around or you would have to go to a chevy dealer to have it programed.Unless you have a saturn dealer still open by you.Or you could look on ebay for a used one or pick part.

$216 is a bit unreasonable seeing how I have seen the price (not sure where) of $47 for the same part. Pick n Pull seems likely if I can find my car. Does it have to be a 93 Saturn SL or is there some other cars I can pull it from?

I would stick with the 1993 sl1 like you have the 1994 sl1 has the same part number but i don't If the programing is the same so that's your gamble if you go that route.

I think I'll stay with my yr/make/model. Thanks again with all your help. Hopefully, I'll be able to get out and (with any luck) get the pick I need. I'll let you know if/when I'm done.

Alright. A bit annoyed. I went to Pick N Pull and grabbed a replacement PCM (took a while getting it out). They wanted $45 for a used PCM that may or may not work (risk to take with junk yards). I feel that's a bit much for a part you're taking chances with.

Where would I be able to find one online (referb?)? I've heard of someone paying $47 for one. Not sure where he/she got it.

I called around at a couple shops. I was told that the PCM can't be recalibrated on anything older than 95. The guy said when I get the replacement PCM, to open the cover on my old one and pull out "the chip" (no idea) and put it into the new one.

Now I'm getting a code 42 "EST bypass, open or shorted". Looking this up, it is Electronic Spark Timing bypass which has something to do with peformance. This code, I assume, is new as it is now appearing PRIOR to the code 82. Any ideas? I'm thinking "lose wire" but I have no idea what I'd be looking for or what would cause it as I haven't been under the hood except to add some tranny fluid (was little low last I checked).

As far as finding one online you would have to look and see what you can find i don't know of any place that has 47 refurbished pcm's if you find one let me know that's totally cheap.As far as swapping a chip from one computer to another you don't have that kind of pcm.The earlier gm cars had a prom chip that came out of a access door that when you replaced the computer you swapped the proms with your old pcm.Your pcm has a flash prom which you can reprogram and update the calibrations without changing the prom chip.It's built in can't be removed that is why there is no access panel on the pcm.So do you have only the 42 now?You don't have a 82 code anymore?

Ah. I called a local mechanic (GM specialist - starting to doubt that). He told me that you can't "recalibrate" anything older than 95.

I had my backyard-mechanic reset the comp (disconnect the Neg for a min with keys turned but car off). After that, the 42 dropped. After driving some, only the 82 returned.

Saturn started in 1991 and even the 1991 had flash proms in there pcm's.Great price on that PCM but it's for a manual transmission you have a automatic so you wouldn't have a computer in there to run your transmission.Also you have to have that one programed at a Saturn or chevy dealer.So you would have to add that into the cost of replacing it.At most pick a parts if you pay a little more you can get a 30 day warranty if the part is bad you get you can exchange it for a good one with in 30 days.

I called the nearest Chevy dealership. They "think" they can program it (because of the year). I was told to call back Monday when a technician is in and ask. I was told it will be an hours' labor at a total of $105. Is that fair?

That sound's about right most place's will charge about an hour for programing.You have to find the right pcm for your car the one you sent me the link for is for a manual transmission you have a automatic transmission like i said before.I would email that seller and see if he has one for your car he just might have one and it's just not listed on ebay.

I must have missed the part where it said it was for standard. It is the only one I was able to find that was less than $100.

I need your google-skills!! lol. Thank you! I'd still have to calibrate that too right?

Not too bad. $150 fix.

Oh, not sure if this is related to the PCM;
I was doing about 30 MPH and all of a sudden my RPMs spiked to over 4k and I didn't gain any speed. I cycled the engine (turned off and back on) multiple times to no avail. Finally, it just started behaving correctly. Pulling off to the side wasn't an option where I was. I could only turn on my 4-ways and wait for an opening to stop or hope the car starts "working". Is it possible the PCM malfunctioning caused it?

It's called eBay skill's it's a gift lol.I just clicked on his other auction's then when they came up I typed in the search box Saturn and it brought up all of his Saturn auction's and that's how I found it.Yes you have to program that one it comes with a blank prom.I don't know if what you experniced is PCM related I would start by replacing the PCM which you know is bad.

I wish I could better explain what happened. It was a one-time thing so who knows the exact cause.

Thank you for locating that part for me too. Would you recommend I get a new one and calibrate that or recalibrate my old one?

I wouldn't waste my money programing your old one that's probably not going to fix the problem.Then you would have to pay to get the new one programed too.Just spend the 50 and program the new one.

Thanks! I'll let you know the outcome once all is done.

The part ordered was the wrong part. I'm working with the guy now to get a new one.

My motor mount needs repair (slightly off topic). Is there any way to find out the part number for the mount? It's the front, right mount.

Is it the mount right by the valve cover?

If you're looking at the engine from the front of the car, it is located on the left (passenger side). I said Right as it is the right side of the car.

So I think that would be a yes.

If it's held in place by 5 nuts then it's the upper motor mount or torque axis mount there 35 at auto zone.You don't need a part number unless your buying it from the dealer and they should have the part number.

I'm not sure how to answer that. Last I had my car looked at, the mechanic pointed to it (circled in the pic below) and said "this motor mount needs to be replaced." I only brought it up because I told a neighbor about it and he said it's pretty cheap and easy to do. Not sure if that's true. Either way I circled what I'm calling the motor mount. Not sure if it's right lol. Note: NOT actual pic of my car.

You have the strut tower circled but if your talking about the engine mount the circle is touching then yes it's easy to change.You just take a floor Jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan and Jack it up againist the oil pan to take the weight off the mount.Then take the 5 nuts off and replace the mount.

Ah! The way the mech was talking, I understood the "strut" as the engine mount. Ok. That makes a bit more sense. Could you direct me to a site that would provide details about the labor? As I understand, it's relatively easy (I've been told).

I just told you how to replace but here you go anyways.

I know you told me, but seeing diagrams (for me) is easier. I do appriciate you locating and providing that information for me. Still working with the PCM. I'll let you know as soon as I get it fixed.

That was ridiculously easy!! Took about 30 min (had some issue getting the previous mount off).

Still having issues with the PCM. Working with the guy to get an exchange.

I got the motor mount replaced just fine. No issues. Took a while getting the old one off (stubborn bolts). But the new one went on just fine. Drove it around the block. Runs fine ... smoother even. I went out and took care of some business. On the way home, the battery light came on.

Since then, I am now getting a battery light constant. When I jump for codes, I still get the PCM code (as I haven't gotten the replacement yet). But now my temperature gauge flashes "61" or "62". I'm pretty sure it was "61". I checked and there's nothing that says about the temp gauge flashing a code. This is right after the engine light does "12" 3 times and "82" 3 times. It then flashes the temp gauge "61" 3 times before doing "12" on the engine light again.

I just bought a new battery. It was dead within 2 days. I've asked around and everyone says it sounds like the regulator inside the alternator. Seems like fixing one thing causes another! Still never got the original problem fixed yet.

There is a 61 6x signal fault but if you had that it should come thru your check engine light..If your battery light is on have your alternator tested you probably have a bad alternator.Fix your alternator and replace your pcm and see what happens from there.

I have the new PCM (part number verified) arriving Friday or Saturday. Replacing the alternator in a day or two.

With the PCM, I read somewhere (while looking for something else) that the PCM is designed to program itself by following a certain set of steps. I am not sure if this is accurate or the cure to a different problem.

Also, I read that PCMs rarely go out and are most likely never the issue. At the same time, I read an article saying that the way my "dumb-ass back-yard-mechanic" (who is never allowed within 100 yards of my car again) "reset" the computer is one of the things that causes a PCM to fail.

[quote:e2e76cdbb0="wolfetundra"]I have the new PCM (part number verified) arriving Friday or Saturday. Replacing the alternator in a day or two.

With the PCM, I read somewhere (while looking for something else) that the PCM is designed to program itself by following a certain set of steps. I am not sure if this is accurate or the cure to a different problem.

Also, I read that PCMs rarely go out and are most likely never the issue. At the same time, I read an article saying that the way my "dumb-exhaust back-yard-mechanic" (who is never allowed within 100 yards of my car again) "reset" the computer is one of the things that causes a PCM to fail.[/quote:e2e76cdbb0]
No if the pcm doesn't come programed it has to be programed by the dealer there flash prom's that come blank and need the correct software it can't learn the correct software.You are correct the pcm rarely goes out but when they set a internal failure code that pretty much say's there bad.That's why i have replaced most of them because of the internal failure code's.How did your back yard mechanic reset the code's?

He turned the key short of starting then disconnected the negative terminal from the battery and left it like that for 2 min then (with the key still in the same position) reconnected the negative terminal.

After reading online about my alternator, I read that disconnecting the negative terminal with the key turned can cause shorts in the electrical system. It listed the PCM as one of the components that can be damaged through this process.

Also, he said to test for the alternator, to start the car and disconnect the positive terminal. It said that the PCM (among other components) can be damaged this way, even if the positive terminal is disconnected without the key in the ignition.

I never had an issue with my alternator or anything that would indicate my alternator was failed or failed prior to him performing this on the car.

Before it was only the PCM that has been having issues. I'm not sure what has caused that.

Also, when the car jerks in reverse (done it as long as I've had the car), I read that it is the throttle body or "something body" that is causing it to do that. Something about putting the car in reverse and draining some hydraulic fluid from somewhere and replacing it. I didn't really read too much about it as I was a bit clueless about what they were talking about. I can send you the link if you'd like.