Runs for five seconds then dies

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

They paid for the pump, battery is good, belt and tensioner are fine. What about the four codes ?

well if battery is messed up like with a load test then it will give false codes that is why I said to check battery. there is a gauge that needs to be put on a belt to see if it is good or not , not just by looking at it. then tensioners also lose tension that is why they need to be replaced at mileage I gave. also try resetting security system if no manual look online for your car that may be why it is not staying running. code 141 is O2 sensor heater circuit which can be a bad sensor or wiring/connection is sure. 446 Is an evap canister vent system, but a lot of these have been found to be a fuel tank pressure sensor throwing that code so have a professional look at it to make sure 455 is a large leak detected for evap system and must be smoke tested to find out where, that also will not allow car to run.496 can also be the same thing with evap system due to the leak so if leak is found some of the other codes may clear.

Battery is reading 12.2 v, belt tightness is less than a inch, battery is clean and great connection. If gone to a dealership for the smoke test what is the average price I can expect ? But I will do the most at home.

Also, I always had a problem of opening the fuel cap to pump gas and it being hard to start but if I leave car running with air conditioner on max and fan on two for the rpm's to stay up, and I fill car slow for a gallon then I can put it in at max flow.

Just to add to this one for the p0455 check the see if the canister purge solenoid is stuck open?That's a common thing that happens and sets that code

Saturntech of I was to pull it out should the spring be or cap be out or in ? If key switch is off and I unplug it and pull it out I see a saucer /plunger that's about halfway. Does that normally stay in at start ? Plus the filter was dusty, so I blew it out. Wasn't able to find a new canister at auto parts store but was thinking a pull apart for it if you think that what ever is inside may be stopped up ?

There is no filter it's over by the engine valve cover

I posted a picture of what your looking for.

Ok found it, how do I check to see if it's operational or not ?

he said to check to see if it is stuck open just look at it. or blow through one line and if it comes through other line it's stuck open.

Sometimes there stuck a little open and sometimes there stuck wide open. It should hold back your breath when its not activated.If you have a hand vccuum pump you can use that to test it. Thats what i like to use to test it.

I tests it and it was open. Bought a new one and replaced it, but car still will not start. Anything else that wouldn't allow car to run ?

Is the security light in solid or flashingw it's the key in the run position?

Solid, and yes key is in run position.

Also I will have to wait till this weekend to work on car. I get back on here then. Going out of town for the week.

if security light is on try resetting it if no manual look online for your car. also battery should read 12.4 volts minimum.

I wish you could read your body control module computer.But that takes a professional scan tool.To see if you have codes b2960 and or b3033 that means a bad ignition switch that's very common on those cars.They had problems with those switches up till 2007 even.Has the ignition switch ever been replaced?

Yes ignition switch was replaced when there was a recall on it. I have a friend that has a professional scanner , when I can get in front of car I'll call him and ask if he can bring it over one day.

That would really help make sure it can read body control module codes.

The BCM was causing it cost me $323.00 to fix all set thanks for your help I love you guys

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

I have just installed a new battery, i have had the alternator tested it is good, but once i come to a light, it will stall, not always but most of times. i do not make a lot of money but do need some idea of how to diagnose.

This is a normal thing after replacing a battery. You have erased the computer's adaptive memory and now it has to relearn the idle strategy. If it does not clear up soon. clean the throttle body inside and disconnect the battery again to start over.




First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system (very important).

Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carburetor cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. It will run rough when you first start it until it burns off all that cleaner.

My 2006 chevy cobalt stalls upon stopping at a light or stop sign, not always but daily. When it is in the stalling mode it is at every stop-needing to be started two or three times before it runs-- then it will all of a sudden stop doing it and run normal for awhile, but you never know when it will stall again. Seems tach and fuel guage hit zero and yesterday my odometer and temp lights didn't come on till I drove about two blocks. Several times the started stayed engaged also. There is only 58,000 miles on it. Garage had it more than I.

is the check engine light on??? if so get it scanned at your local parts store... they will do it for free... let us know the code, or codes... sounds like an IAC issue, but without engine codes i cant say for sure.

I just had a tune-up - no major problems but lately when I slow down my car cuts off. It starts right back up and I put some fuel injector cleaner in it but what could be the problem with it. When I'm driving it will cut off if I slow down or turn but will immediately start right back up. My daughter drives the car on empty and I believe it has sucked in trash. I'eve asked her not to do that to put gas in the car because it causes problems and sucks in trash. Do you think I need to get the car flushed or something.

try cleaning throttle plateon both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner

thank you so much for your help.

Engine Performance problem
2006 Chevy Cobalt 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 62000k miles

i have a cobalt ss supercharged 2006 when i put the gas pedal on the floor the motor cut at low rpm and my check engine light is lit. if the catalysor is obstructed it is possible to have this trouble

Yes, the converter can cause this. However, since the engine light is on, there is a trouble code set in the computer. Have the computer scanned at a nationally recognized parts store. Most will do it for free, and that way you will know if the problem is coming from the converter of a sensor.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Joe

When I am sitting at stop sign or stop light the car idles lower than 1 and it dies sometimes, but you can start it back up. The panel that shows gas and all that will go up and down when try to start it and it will keep going up and down even when not started for about 20 seconds. Now it has recently started dying when driving sometimes. I don't know if it could be fuel pump or the idle air control valve. Just did oil change, changed air filter, and changed the fuel filter. I would donate money if i had it but just got fired due to illness two weeks ago and really need help with figuring this out before I spend all my money.

Try cleaning out the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor and manifold absolute pressure sensor also check the fuel pressure if its within specs.

I wanted to thank you for helping me. I will get all this checked tomorrow. I was gonna check the thing about the air Idle control and wasn't sure how. Thank you again!

sometimes will crank right back up but sometimes takes a while. when I'm coming to a stop or when i make the complete stop it cuts off sometimes it will start up right away sometimes it may take five minutes of trying to crank it before it starts. i just had to replace a fuel pump back in July of 2011. do you think that has any thing to do with it.

The first thing I would check is for vacuum leaks and the idle air control valve. Either can cause a problem at idle. If there are no problems there, move to the fuel pressure and make sure it is within spec. The idea that it runs good off an idle leads me to believe it will be fine, but you never know.

i got a hole in my oil pan the other day and the oil leaked from my car fast and the car shut off hoping the car would have some kind of emergency shut off i welded the hole temporarily and poured oil in. she cranked over once and and half slowly and then started to make a clicking sound. is is it blown up?

You may have lose to much oil and damaged a bearing, i would not run the engine until this is proven, you will have to drop the sump and inspect bearing shells.

The car alternates between operating good, to having the problems I am stating (frequency--often):

When the car is in motion (regular speed limit -35 mph) and the brakes are depressed it sputters and seems to want to cut off. After the accelerator is pressed to move the car forward, the same thing happens--the car sputters, drags as if it doesn't want to change gears, and seems about ready to cut off. Once the car is in gear and moving this effect is gone. But the next time I have to brake, and move forward afterwards, the same dynamic begins.

try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner. if check engine light is on scan for codes. if it continues check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.